legonsuk

If the traction control light is on i would put my money on it being the abs speed sensors have gone this happened to my old girl two or three years ago so on to ebay got some for £9 each so said sod it and done them all .

Have had the same thing with my 2.5 grand since i have had the old girl it smokes just after startup then goes i think its just condensation build up in the exhaust and the only time it will ever bother me is if it dont go away on startup .

If you have safe parking you could pull the "shelf" fuse, that would keep you alarmed but reduce other drain. Alternatively I have a 'red key', I never use it because it does TOTAlly isolate your battery.

Starter batteries are simply a purse, a reserve of starting power, the bigger the purse the bigger the reserve, and the longer it takes to refill the purse. At 800CCA and 85aH it takes a long unspecified time with a 160/180a alternator to replace just the one half turn start. Agreed should be ± 25mA, I'd accept a frack either way but not +10. The IPM [fusebox] is often a culprit for leaks but then the whole car function is a PCI BUS just like your computer.
 
What battery ?
Standard factory fit radio ?
No tow bar or other third party rewire ?
 
Mind you Tim, I've suffered all the 10 years I've had it, but mine is deffo a lifestyle issue.
 
IGNITION-OFF DRAW TEST - reproduced from the workshop manual - According to Chrysler's own workshop manual : Allow twenty minutes for the IOD to stabilize and observe the multi-meter reading. The low-amper- age IOD should not exceed twenty-five milliamperes (0.025 ampere). If the current draw exceeds twenty-five milliamperes, isolate each circuit using the fuse and circuit breaker remove-and-replace process in Step 4. The multi-meter reading will drop to within the acceptable limit when the source of the excessive current draw is disconnected. Repair this circuit as required; whether a wiring short, incorrect switch adjustment, or a component failure is at faultThe term Ignition-Off Draw (IOD) identifies a normal condition where power is being drained from the battery with the ignition switch in the Off position. A normal vehicle electrical system will draw from fifteen to twenty five milliamperes (0.015 to 0.025 ampere) with the ignition switch in the Off position, and all non-ignition controlled circuits in proper working order. Up to twenty-five milliamperes are needed to enable the memory functions for the Powertrain Control Module (PCM), digital clock, electronically tuned radio, and other modules which may vary with the vehicle equipment. A vehicle that has not been operated for approximately twenty one days, may discharge the battery to an inadequate level. When a vehicle will not be used for twenty one days or more (stored), remove the IOD fuse from the Integrated Power Module (IPM). This will reduce battery discharging. 
 
Best of luck.

First thing i would be looking at is if you have a amp in the back of boot area for the stereo  have been known to play up and drain the battery as i have had one go on me and as for the battery i would only fit a 800CCA or higher in a grand hope this might help m8.

First thing i would be looking at is if you have a amp in the back of boot area for the stereo  have been known to play up and drain the battery as i have had one go on me and as for the battery i would only fit a 800CCA or higher in a grand hope this might help m8.

Thanks legonsuk, good video. The reason I asked is I read somewhere that cgv's had tamper proof electrics to prevent hot wiring etc. and that an appropriate control box was required with any aftermarket fittings, it seems not so. This means I will be fitting my sensors asap. Many thanks.

Copy and paste this into youtube  Telecastvids i think its the third video down might help m8.

On my 2.5crd the gas got low and the ac clutch stopped working got a regas done and away we go job done hope this helps.

I have the 2.5 had the same problem as you found out it was the fuel filter took the old one out didn't look that bad but found like this slimy snotty clear stuff in the filter pop new one in running like a dream now hope this might help m8.

cheers Legonsuk
                              the 2.5 has the filter at the back next to the tank underside and uses  a paper element type filter the later 2.8 use a screw on filter at the front on the engine, this is all new with filter housing so that has been eliminated as cause, but thanks for your reply, glad you got yours solved , i'm just waiting for my turn to be lucky
cheers keith

On my grand V all the fascia trim around the radio and heater control pops off in one four screws paste this on youtube  ( Chrysler Dodge Grand Voyager Caravan 2004 (2001-2007) Radio Removal )  the top video by Andy Brown will help you a lot it did me hope this helps m8 .

Cutting out on booting it nothing to do with Crank Sensor. Crank sensor often doesn't leave a code when it goes as it just goes. Try the MAP which logs the boost pressure, you might just get away with cleaning it as its normally covered with carbon crud. If it doesn't cut out engine and just go into temp cut power mode, its the Turbo actuation side like operation of the gate actuator. Look for P0235 here. 

Bad Crank sensor or ring  should activate EML - well it did on mine 2008 MK5 not 100% sure on MK4. 
 
Usually it is the valve at the end of the fuel rail that leaks under gigh pressure and replacing him usually helps for 2-3 years. 
+ clean or replace MAP sensor. 
+ clean EGR if you can (or block it) it will help. 
 
There was a very good video on YouTube while ago done by @@Andy from here targeting all areas of cut off problems. 

hi legonuk 
thanks for the reply ive already emailed them 
but considering the time of year i wont be holding my breath for the reply 
lol 
merry Christmas 

Got it thanks.

cool ill give it a try see how it goes 
thnx for your advice 

Hi Thank you Legonsuk for that got one straightaway can't see how it works but I'll soon find out how does it work is it easy to suss it out as I say thanks again Just been on youtube great tool will make life easier.

Pull the rear disc. I'd suggest you get the hardware kit as the adjusters seize and may wear the star wheel. Easy enough to do. They rarely get any use with an auto trans. Got mine at micks garage online

This is the button i have been on about so i hope this might help some one else .

That's the one, just look for the year as the newer ones look the same but they come with newer year models. Mine is only up to 2014 for example.
No need for extra software, windows firewall and antivirus turned off and it should work.

Hi, I use a Delphi 150e and goes around 40-50 pounds now, I am happy with it, used it many other makes and models, found ABS faults, DPF regeneration, component testing and more.
 
Hope it helps.

Glad this got you going again, was similar to mine, but I went through a lot of different steps and potentially different solutions.
I've lumped it all together into a huge video covering all the bits I went through, so might be of use:
https://www.patreon.com/posts/chrysler-grand-2-17356742

All sorted out got some redex diesel cleaner and some redex diesel injector cleaner and went for a drive cut out 2 or 3 times then all ok .

Crankshaft sensor usually shows its head when it heats up, sending back wobbled-DE-goop voltages to the ECU...Then when it cools down it seems ok, until !