legonsuk

I was reading a post on a French Chrysler forum just recently someone with the same engine had major starting issues similar to yours.
He tried everything except the crankshaft of sensor, it turned out to be the crankshaft sensor !
I ll probably end up replacing mine.

Hi,
(I know this is a few weeks old, but thought I'd leave the info for future)
 
Yes this problem has come up quite a few times. Why Chrysler decided to directly solder incandescent bulbs onto the circuit board I'll never know!
 
I've done this repair on mine and a few others with LED replacements, they're tricky to do and the tracks can come off when you're soldering on the old Chrysler board but it's do-able.
I made a good find on ebay a while back, model train enthusiasts use small LED strips to light up carriages, etc, and they are ideal for this application:
 
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/QUALITY-9v-12v-DC-3528-LED-SUPAFLEX-LIGHTING-STRIP-MODEL-RAILWAY-N-OO-HO-O-GAUGE/151025926614?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&var=450232359825&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649
 
So those might do what you want, just solder in place and as Penguin2007 says make sure you test and get polarity correct. There are no markings for + or - on the little board you remove from the car so I ended up doing it the hard way, get your multimeter and test it whilst connected to be sure.

I have not yet had to do this repair, but on my Tipo, LEDs constantly flipped, as well as the odometer mileage LED strips failing.....
 
When you get to the 'I have got you nearly out of the pub stage', there may be identifying marks on the LED.
 
Sometimes it is on the LED plastic itself (rare - but on older types), else it is on the stem of the LED metal shaft.
 
You may find further information on the wiring schematic in the handbook.
 
When / if you remove - note / check the polarity of the LED, bimp, bump, cutaway on LED plastic etc.
 
Penguin

Yeah on that car I just put it down the a very worn ignition barrel as the key comes out anywhere! It doesn't have a hole like in the picture or any button.

Hi, just a thought, from your post indicates that you probably recently bought it..."i am beginning to think it was a bad idea buying a chrysler"
It happen to me when I first bought one.
Please see pictures attached to understand what I'm about to say:
for some reason Chrysler added an option on the ignition where it gives the driver the opportunity to extract the key with the engine running...sometimes is good but when it comes to turn off the engine and lock the car...if not enough attention is given to in what position the key was when removed, the second ACC is still on.
Where the red circle is it used to be a push button which will block or unblock the key to go to zero position.
Where the orange line is, is there where the key should be so all the electrics are off.
the blue line to the left of the orange one it keeps the car "alive", and with the key on the right of the orange line it lets the driver remove the key while engine on.
I removed mine (on both, the previous one and the current one) and never had problems since... Also, when the key removed and the driver door is opened, if you hear a buzz it means the ignition is still "on", even if the key is not in.
 
 
Hope it helped.

Original thread from 2015 here, the #7 Leedsman original is here. I did a further mod and changed the the 33K Ω @ 1/2 watt to 22K Ω @ 1/2 watt keeps it under the 4.6[ish] [although I'm sure it would be safe a little higher]. I did get the extra .3's @ 14.4+ I was aiming for. This will better recover the winter loss more quickly. Of course in the summer the ALT output will be limited by the lower battery replenishment needs. That thread is here and I can confirm that I had 14.5-6V over the winter and its now an average of 14.3-4V summer.

Battery
 
Battery choice, like choosing a wife, provokes different opinions on what is beautiful. The issue however are simple. You should be looking for about 800CCA over 80aH, this is a physical size that will not fit the CRD battery tray, so get a big one and modify the tray, or get a smaller one and take your UK winter chances. There is a~n~other UK issue of lifestyle, its a use it or lose it condition. If like me you do 2000 miles per annum with two 15 minutes trips once a week you will regardless of battery size / cost never keep that battery charged, the BUS [over 7 or so days] at resting will use more than the 30 minutes the alternator was able to replace.
 
Different people have success with different batteries, I'm sure the UK users will come to your aid with their suggestions, particularly the Scottish contingent who have an even colder climate than I. For myself I originally had a Banner Uni Bull 690 over 70 and my replacement was a Bosch S5 Type 96 at 800 over 80. Best of luck.
 
Power seat fuse : are as stated droppers, as you have had your battery removed for 4 days the 'droppers' should re-set themselves via the BCM/IPM
 
Lifestyle : Two 15 minutes trips once a week.
 
The  higher  the  voltage  applied,  the  faster the battery will charge, charging at too  high a voltage WILL  damage  your  battery. A simple 100Ah open lead acid  battery and a 180A charger connected to the battery discharged to 50% :
 
- @ 50% full @ 13.2V current was 35A
- @ 50% full @ 14,8V current was 160A [improvement of 457%]
- @ 75% full @ 13.2V current was 1A
- @ 75% full @ 14.8V current was 60A [improvement of 6000%]
 
Its not linear so :
 
- two 15 minute periods @ 13.2V is 2 x 15 minute @ 21Ah, compared to ;
- two 15 minute periods @ 14.4V is 2 x 15 minute @ 60Ah, is an improvement  of  about  300%
 
The temperature sensor under the battery will drop [ temperature compensator's on modern alternators will compensate] the voltage output from about 14.0V to about 13.2V. The problem I have with this is the engine compartment soon reaches temp and the battery assumes its fully charged.
 
- 13.20 volts is about what you would expect from [split diode - does not apply to Voyagers, and] this vehicle with a temp sensor & alternator compensator
- 14.00 volts  is about what you would expect from any typical alternator without a vehicle temp sensor & alternator compensator
- 14.40 volts is what you would expect from a sealed lead acid to prevent [they tend to gas @ 50ºC] excessive gassing
- 14.80 volts is what you can risk pushing it to with an open lead acid to prevent damage to other equipment connected to the battery at the same time
 
NOTE01 : There are IOD 7 functions that are 'live' when you think your car and battery are asleep, they pull a combined 0.025 ampere draw. I used a Maplins cheepo solar panel which cost me £15 at the time, and I have never been unable to start the car since. They are :
 
• Electrical items left on.
• Faulty or improperly adjusted switches.
• Faulty or shorted electronic modules and components.
• An internally shorted generator.
• Intermittent shorts in the wiring
Remote key fob
Radio
Heater blower
Folding mirrors
Central locks
Interior lights when the key is in the ignition
 
 
IGNITION-OFF DRAW TEST - reproduced from the workshop manual - According to Chrysler's own workshop manual :
 
Allow twenty minutes for the IOD to stabilize and observe the multi-meter reading. The low-amper- age IOD should not exceed twenty-five milliamperes (0.025 ampere). If the current draw exceeds twenty-five milliamperes, isolate each circuit using the fuse and circuit breaker remove-and-replace process in Step 4. The multi-meter reading will drop to within the acceptable limit when the source of the excessive current draw is disconnected. Repair this circuit as required; whether a wiring short, incorrect switch adjustment, or a component failure is at fault
The term Ignition-Off Draw (IOD) identifies a normal condition where power is being drained from the battery with the ignition switch in the Off position. A normal vehicle electrical system will draw from fifteen to twenty five milliamperes (0.015 to 0.025 ampere) with the ignition switch in the Off position, and all non-ignition controlled circuits in proper working order. Up to twenty-five milliamperes are needed to enable the memory functions for the Powertrain Control Module (PCM), digital clock, electronically tuned radio, and other modules which may vary with the vehicle equipment. A vehicle that has not been operated for approximately twenty one days, may discharge the battery to an inadequate level. When a vehicle will not be used for twenty one days or more (stored), remove the IOD fuse from the Integrated Power Module (IPM). This will reduce battery discharging.
 
BatteryMOD
 
I like many of us was an early adopter of AGM, most of us by now will be AGM. It occurs to me that the safe μF we chose for the buttonMOD could be changed to give closer to 14.4V than the 14.1 I was getting. I went 13.9 to 14.1 it would be nice to have that extra .3V, it would make a hell of a difference on a big 80aH even over such a short charging time frame as 15 minutes.
 
I was thinking 22K Ω @ 1/2 watt would be a goodish guesstimate for keeping it under the 14.6[ish] although I'm sure it would be safe a little higher. I'll be happy if I can get to the extra .3's @ 14.4 * Tested .... smack on 14.4-6 winter and 14+ summer over a 6 month period steady across the REV range. This will better recover the winter loss more quickly. Of course in the summer the ALT output will be limited by the lower battery replenishment needs Well pleased !

Hi @@legonsuk ok so we reckon battery good, so now onto identifying IOD draw. When you had the meter instead of the fuse on IOD what current was it pulling?
 
Remember to test like this: engine off, key off+out, driver door (all doors) shut, bonnet up. Wait 5 minutes (at least) then pop IOD fuse out, put meter in, wait again I'd say 5 minutes and take the reading.
The reason for the delays? When the IOD is removed/re-added the car computer will wake up and go into it's more active state, you want to wait and see what it's like at idle/sleep state to get an idea what your idling current draw is.
 
When it's in idle you should have the following characteristics: radio clock OFF, interior lights all OFF, any/all side/park lights OFF. One that seems to come up frequently is the amplifier is sometimes forced to be on all the time, generally with after-market radios or modifications to the audio system, so do you have an aftermarket radio or mod like that which could be forcing the amp to be constantly powered?
 
Hope these help a bit more diagnostics, post back on what you find.

Right below passenger footwell and not in engine bay...Heater has a metal protection cover below it.

Check the Auxiliary Heater exhaust port for your coolant loss.

Hi pal and welcome.

 

Nope you're not being thick, I tried it too, they are weird in that the bench seat will fold flat backwards, but not forwards!!!

 

But I am sure I saw a photo of one perhaps on autotrader that was folded forward, or maybe i dreamed it......

Skimmed if needs skimmed of course. Check with long rule/gauge its not warped or get professionally checked. May need Injector puller as there known to be seized in. Good time to overhaul injectors. Clean out EGR. Check turbo vanes and waste-gate actuator. Cambelt kit of course. 

if head gaskets gone it will blow it out of the exhaust or expansion bottle

I put my hands up to that as well nev! 

Hi Legons and welcome.
 
You wont regret getting the Chrysler, such a versatile vehicle!
 
This link might help you http://www.chryslerforum.co.uk/topic/428-manual-workshop-manuals/but between everyone on here, you're covered id say!  
 You'll find with your model that the bench only reclines, it doesn't fold in on itself like the older models - a bit annoying to say the least!