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Not any info on the suspension apart from I know the springs are humongous and tend not to fit in a spring compressor so advise take it to a garage and pay them
As for the rear window I had problem with like a gritty build up that just seemed to get worse the more I cleaned and polished it
Until I experimented with McGuires clay bar detailing kit
About £20 from Halfords
Squirt on the juice rub over with clay buff off excess juice polish after
Done the whole car and all paint work came up like crystal glass finish
Worth every penny

im no profesional nor a mechanic 
years ago i had similar problem with a vauxhall carlton 
i had the gearbox oil changed with new filter that seemed to work if i remember right
but from memory there was something later wrong with the torque converter 
thing with auto gearboxes is no one wants to touch them that ive found 
1 reason i was given was they are built by magicians and worked by witchcraft !!lol 
i wish you luck hopefully someone else will have a better explanation and can help you better   

im no profesional nor a mechanic 
years ago i had similar problem with a vauxhall carlton 
i had the gearbox oil changed with new filter that seemed to work if i remember right
but from memory there was something later wrong with the torque converter 
thing with auto gearboxes is no one wants to touch them that ive found 
1 reason i was given was they are built by magicians and worked by witchcraft !!lol 
i wish you luck hopefully someone else will have a better explanation and can help you better   

hi legonuk 
thanks for the reply ive already emailed them 
but considering the time of year i wont be holding my breath for the reply 
lol 
merry Christmas 

cool ill give it a try see how it goes 
thnx for your advice 

what did they say about the misdirection and incorrect diagnosis ??
tbh it sounds a bit sketchy and i would definitely be looking for a new garage 
£1200 is not an amount that can be brushed off easily 
when reading the very 1st post on this my 1st comment was get a 2nd opinion !!!
i know that they are not responsible for faulty parts but ffs £1200 on work thats not needed they are responsible for !!!

Good stuff matey!
 
But such a shame they didn't "fess up" when you went first time instead of trying to spank your wallet, and wonder why are we mostly cynical and untrusting of garages we haven't got a relationship with.
 
Same in my profession though, heating and gas engineer.Loads of guys might as well roll up on a horse called Trigger with their (lack of) tools in their pocket. Couldn't fix a McDonald's happy meal toy half of them.

Just in case this helps anyone...
​I replaced my smashed mirror with a new one I sourced online for £11 at Less4Spares.
This was new, had the correct mounting plate and connections for the heater /demister - all in all very good value.
 
Be careful taking off the existing mirror - it does not simply prise off.
There are 4 semi circular 'lugs' on the wing mirror mount that you hook the new mirror over, if you try to prise the mirror off this wll break the lugs off as it did for my top right one when I tried to prize the mirror off.
Slide a knife or similar under the bottom edge of the mirror in the gap between the mirror and the mirror housing and twist or prise the mirror upwards about 5mm.
You may need to push the bottom of the mirror in so that top edge moves clear of the mirror housing and has room to move upwards.
This will free the mirror from the 4 plastic lugs that it is clipped over.
It can then be lifted clear and the 2 wires removed from the heating clips if present.
 
Fitting is simple and in reverse.
Carefully line up the mounting holes on the back of the new mirror over the 4 mounting points and push down.
You may need to put a knife or screwdriver in the gap at the top and twist to get a little extra force to push the mirror down firmly onto the mounting lugs.
 
Job done. 

ps listen to gordy and andy 
they a geniuses very very knowledgeable and helped me more than enough times with there advice 
thumbs up fellas  

i had same problem with my 2.5crd and 2.8crd 
the 2.5 i replaced all filters (not housings)had tank removed and cleaned no luck sold car in the end 
my 2.8 had exact same issues 
changed all filters fuel filter housing(ie heater/manual fuel pump) still same issue 
sent to diesel specialist diagnosed fuel rail pressure release valve 
cost few hundred quid to diagnose and get sorted but 2 years in now and im still going strong 
my advice is send it to a specialist who knows what they are looking for 
my experiences with 2 voyagers the fuel systems seems to be very temperamental
there are post on this forum about these problems already as well as a big write up on the web somewhere that i read
ps when you get it sorted only use premium diesel cheep diesel seems to worsen your problems   

ps listen to gordy and andy 
they a geniuses very very knowledgeable and helped me more than enough times with there advice 
thumbs up fellas  

The Fuel Filter housing was the issue with mine, every since I replaced it, the car has run perfectly. Garages are drawn to injectors for this symptom set, I had mine replaced and it was nothing to do with them, I solved the problem with research online including this forum, not OBD codes. Good luck.

This does sound exactly what I had when mine was at it's worst. At first it just cut out under heavy RPM/load, but when it really failed it did that, cut out basically idling on the driveway.
Also the 'chugging' trying to start was something I've had too, actually mine will still do this when the engine is warm, still haven't gotten to the bottom of that issue but i'm not getting cut outs anymore after working through everything shown.
 
Go through everything in the video, methodically and work through items that you know are 'known good', as pressure relief valve and filter are easily done at home on the driveway so test the easy things before going to the harder/more expensive replacements.
 
Unfortunately NO garage will be able to tell you 100% that one thing will fix it, if they do they're lying as none of these issues generate fault codes in the ECU enough to be sure on the corrective action.

It won't start. Does that mean its turning over but not firing. If it is its a fuel pressure fault. Like bignev says air in system, Injectors leaking too much or pressure bypass on rail...

Hi Bex,
As Andy's list, the very common one is the fuel filter housing cracking, or a slightly iffy O ring seal.

Hi there,

Unfortunately this can be a long list of problems, there are lots of posts on here and on other forums and I did a whole video dedicated to it:

https://youtu.be/ucfZfV1cNng

When you say it won't run for hours what does it do, dashboard light up, you hear the starter motor turning the engine over it just never fires? When it does that if you waggle your foot on the accelerator will it catch and start?

Also, the assumption is the cut out is when you do hard acceleration/over 3.5k rpm? That's the common failure. So back to the list:
Fuel filter - when was it last changed Fuel - what fuel do you buy Fuel - put a diesel cleaner/additive through it sometimes helps If the filter has been changed recently, get the filter assembly checked to make sure its sealed properly, has an o-ring. Worth getting it changed again Is it a front or rear fuel filter model? The 05 has different designs, if front check the primer pump and pump it to get it started, if it goes soft it means potentially air/leaking (Those are just a few that popped into my head as I type, there are lots of posts on the matter!
Engine warning light is a newer one that hasn't been seen in many cases, the fact that the garages plugged in and got no codes means they're not using the right code readers, these need very expensive/special readers
to read the Chrysler codes, so the fact the engine light is on but they see no codes means their reader isn't good enough for the job!

hi had same problem with my doors 
watched this easy easy repair well worth a go your self 

copy paste watch 

hi had same problem with my doors 
watched this easy easy repair well worth a go your self 

copy paste watch 

hi had exact same issues with my 2.5 crd and my 2.8 crd 
2.5 
changed every filter had tank chemically cleaned fuel system completely checked (ie all pipes injectors etc....)
never got to bottom of problem sold car for spares 
2.8 had exact same problem
changed all filters fuel heater/pump housen still had problem 
sent into diesel specialist after few hours diagnosing was fuel rail pressure release valve 
been running perfect since October 2015 absolutely no reports !!!!
if i remember the labour was around £300 and the part was around £50 (worth every penny to me)
my advice is save yourself  the £1000s i have personally spent to discover my problem 
pay few £££ for a diesel specialist to diagnose it properly for you