gordy

Front cable below.
AWD Voyager is 4683 285AD
FWD Voyager is 4721 420AB.

Hiya @@gordy, yep just for them there sooty diesels, Diesel Particulate Filter, fricking pest.
My Mazda 6 2.0 that had a 32 mile each way commute STILL cocked up.
I'm rather glad my van is just a teeny but too old for one, the last of the Euro 3 models.
 
And the code could apparently be, possibly, too rich a mixture, if the sensor and wiring are good.
The high voltage (which is still very low - less than 1 volt) is caused by the mixture!
I didn't know that - found it on a trouble shooting site:
 
http://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/chrysler/3.9L-5.2L-5.9L/how-to-test-code-P0132-page-1
 
And yes it's a bit of a bigger engine than we get! So may not be completely applicable to this - beware!

My Shoe Backplates, dust covers, flying saucers, on mine are a bit knaff...Got to use 4mm machine screws through the springs and shoes to secure...
5073 640AA - RH.
5073 641AA - LH
Found a supplier but they don't go by those part no's.
Car off road at mo....It's tooo cold outside for my knackered body...
Amen......

Yes Everyone "MERRY CHRISTMAS" to you ALL... So with a Hic..Burp...Belch...Not so much Boaking....Whine Here...There...Starter Whirring...No Start...Kick it There...Hammer Even...Fill the Tank...Again...Sit...Drink...Have Another...Hic....Zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz....

Sorry to say Loved France when we went in Motorhome. So Bl**dy laid back. Quiet roads. Old world Villages and Towns. Had intension of going to work and live there but contract fell through. Blast...And weather...what more can you ask for...

Is it from engine compartment after shutting down. Lift bonnet after shutting and check.

Hi Karmannski,
That's tricky as we've not got a lot to go on!
 
But, by the sounds of it now it's cutting out the suspicion is the pressure relief valve failure that's quite a common one doing the rounds at the moment!
Take a look at 
by our old pal Daz and see if you can do the same test. 
Replacing the valve is tricky as there are a few part numbers circulating so if you go to replace check closely the part you're replacing is an exact match (Some aren't exact thread size as a few people I've spoken to recently found out and kindly passed the info onto me).
 
Also, struggling to start on a morning could also be glow plugs, so time to test and perhaps replace:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2vtGGp4Jqp8&t=8s

There was a 2.8CRD think about 2006 advertised a fortnight ago going cheap for spares or repairs and on their fault paragraph they included a picture of a code reader with codes that the vehicle had in its memory. Actron Auto Scanner Plus CP9180. And was showing code P0765 and below it Shift Sol summit Malfunction. I say summit cos light shinning on screen hiding it.

EGR is at back of engine, need to remove wiper tray to get at it. Follow the stainless pipe from under inlet manifold at front of engine, it goes around back, battery side and joins to EGR. While you are there check operation of turbo waste-gate actuator to see its working, inclusive of rubber tube-work incase of blockage. Once you are learned the job come and do mine...

Right below passenger footwell and not in engine bay...Heater has a metal protection cover below it.

Check the Auxiliary Heater exhaust port for your coolant loss.

Skimmed if needs skimmed of course. Check with long rule/gauge its not warped or get professionally checked. May need Injector puller as there known to be seized in. Good time to overhaul injectors. Clean out EGR. Check turbo vanes and waste-gate actuator. Cambelt kit of course. 

Got to say getting the gearbox out is a nightmare to do on your own like I did. Biggest tip I have is get the car as high as you can as the gearbox is bigger than you think.
 
Neil, I'm in Doncaster. After driving for a couple of days I've noticed that the economy round town is a little down but really not much. And considering I saved a packet on the repair it will take ages before I'm out of pocket lol.
 
The. Hugest thing that the professionals won't tell you is the internals are the same. parts are easily available these gearboxes from the American eBay and isn't that expensive. Jump on YouTube and there is a video showing how to strip and rebuild these gearboxes from start to finish. Anybody who can remove a gearbox should be able to rebuild one as they are so simple to strip as I was really intrigued to find out what had failed on mine.
 
So to the gearbox specialists out there I will apologise in advance for the loss of income

BLOODY AWESOME YOU GUYS!!!!
 
Fantastic info some of us may be thankful for at some point hey!
 
And sometimes it's actually nice to be wrong, in a good way, hey gordy!?

So just to confirm to everybody I have now repaired my vehicle using a gearbox from a 3.3 petrol voyager. I purchased a 52 plate with head gasket failure for £200.The car had done 68k with one owner and full service history. I drove the vehicle for 36 miles without fault and if im honest it was a shame to break the car as it drove perfectly. I figured for £200 I would have a go and see if it would work. Well the answer is yes all though there is 2 slight modifications you have to do.
 
1: On the 2.8 gearboxes you will find 2 bolt holes under the rear diff, the 3.3 only has one and its in the wrong place. Easy to sort just alloy weld and make second hole. (I suppose you could just ignore it because its only one bolt but I like things to be right)
2: the hoses at the front as Neil said are incorrect. Rather than using hose I simply unscrewed the fitting and replaced with the correct fitting from my 2.8 gearbox. Fits perfect.
 
I did use the torque converter from my 2.8 but looking the 3.3 would fit no worries. I have driven the car around 50 miles and all is perfect. So how much has it cost for this gearbox repair:
 
Scrap car £200
Gearbox oil and filter £36
total £236
 
But then guess what, as I have bought a full car I can now either break the full car which I haven't time to do or sell to scrap yard. I have chosen the later and they are collecting it and giving me £125. So this gearbox repair has cost me £111.
 
I did look at the internals prior to fitting and can also confirm they are the same. hope this helps somebody else in the future as on my quest to find a gearbox everybody told me it couldn't be done and that a gearbox is £500. Well they were wrong

Well you were in the right faze of mind there. These 2 sensors will let engine start, not let it start or shut engine down. But for the 2 sensors to work how they should, they should have the correct voltage going into them so they can output the required voltage to the ECU for engine to be allowed to start. The crank one may not be powered though.
So what I am coming to, is, Battery output. Is your battery good, quite new, how old. As its not just these cars that need a good battery to satisfy the starting parameters...
Somehow it doesn't sound fuel pressure related, but just might be.

Ah new replacement bushes, there's something without having to buy the complete shocks. Someone on here a year or so ago solved that issue as to where to get them.
And come-on Andy I'm waiting to toast its the flexiplate with a few beers..Hic..Burp..Belch... 

This fault has been on here before so check back the threads.
Its probably a protection to your autobox if fluid is low or needs changed. 

There's a front cable from Handbrake to fulcrum. Short cable from fulcrum to right side, connected to another cable to rear drum. From fulcrum there's only one cable to left side drum.
 
Brake cable RH ADA104609 Blue print 108 83 0100
Brake cable LH ADA 104608 Blue print 108 83 0090
 
Intermediate cable Quinton Hazel BC3631 (4683 496AB)
       ditto                Motorworld       EAN 5016593853980
 
LH Cable     1692mm FKB 3178
RH Cable     1291mm FKB 3507
Intermediate 1381mm FKB2469

Your car would pull to the left or right under top strutt windup where the top strutt bearing had gone and top of spring grinds into the top hat metal. So when you turn left the spring turns partly and rest goes into spring. Then turn to line car up straight ahead and there's a pull in spring to left. Overturning steering wheel might untwist spring but dangerous. Sounds a windup this but I'm sure anyone who has had a top bearing go will confirm a steering pull.

Interesting one this and hopefully find an interesting answer. Doesn't start sometimes, other times it starts ok and then performs its function. Maybe the RAC approved garage found an answer but it wasn't the actual EGR valve, does this EGR have wires to it and electronics. Is this a wiring fault problem. Doesn't sound like Fuel related as of air in fuel but maybe has more than one fault. Was thinking of a sensor fault where crank sensor would shut engine down and not leave fault code but it runs ok at times for many miles. Then there's the Boost/temp sensor, shut down yes, leave code, well sometimes. If it goes into limp mode on booting it code P0235 or likes is left. But noticed on mine when boost sensor totally lost it and shut down happened there was no code, as like crank sensor.
But that EGR system needs checked and wiring verified.

Gordy is right, look for the simple answers first.
Garage nearby couldn't find a no start fault on a Vauxhall. Sold the owner another car. I bet it was nothing.

I'm with you @@gordy - hear it far too often nowadays. All the technology but no old school skills or brains. 
Open the bugger up and find out, or take out the injectors or glow plugs and do a compression test, or SOMETHING!!!!!!
 
My van had no fault codes but drove like a sack of poo from cold..... Nowt wrong with it then obviously!!
Go on then drive it I dared them - oh yes it's awful isn't it - bloody hell yes!!!
So an older chap, who used to work on cars in the good old days of points, distributors, condensers etc, said - "egr valve that Nev, gummed up and sticking" and it was. Ruddy new one needed "coding in" to a Renault Master.
 
My line of work is heating and gas engineer, and the number of times I come across the phrase "wouldn't you be better off with a new one" pee's me right off.
No they wouldn't - ruddy fix the damn thing, or don't claim you can repair them.
 
Worst one recently was a conventional boiler supposedly knackered, young couple recently moved in, but when I go round it's still ok for hot water.
So as I said to the young lady - well it's still working then isn't it, it's not dead. If it gets the water hot the boiler is fine.
Two people had happily quoted her a new one.
I had a look round at the system as to why the heating wasn't on, and eventually found the camouflaged thermostat, painted over, turned it up and hey what do you know hot rads 5 minutes later.
Rocket scientist I must be.
So much to the pleasure of my little girls I put a Bob the Builder sticker on my van, with the slogan "Can We Fix It? - Probably!"
 
Anyway sorry I went off topic too.
So commisserations woodie and Andy.
 
Mind you I still have my 2002 3.3 going green on the drive behind my van, my old post from last year has just been brought up by someone else, and slightly new test info, so it may breath life again, yeah right.

Yes that's it, clears it better with a picture Ryden. As too cleaning it, I cleaned mine in Diesel the last time then dried it off. However not long after it gave up the ghost. Got mine off fleebay, and using the Bosch part number it was advertised as being for another make. Price around £50. Taxi's use this engine and LDV..

Yes thats the sensor with the 4 wires atop engine. One is supply 5v. One earth. One boost pressure return. One temperature return. Must point out that Ryden's picture is a bit confusing as its showing sensor 6 as being down front of engine. Maybe different on the 2.8crd or later models though. We'll have a clearance on that one.