a1ant

Hi Neil!
 
A few questions to ask first....
 
Is your coolant level dropping? Ie are you having to top it up?
 
Does the car get hot when sitting in traffic? Or only when going up inclines?
 
Does the temperature gauge generally sit steady once warned up, or does it fluctuate up and down?
 
When starting the car from cold, do you hear any sloshing/bubbling noises?
 
Alan

Does this help?
 
Replacing Front Fog Light
 
Reach behind the front fascia from under the vehicle. Twist the front fog light bulb to remove from the fog light module. Disconnect the electrical connector and replace the bulb.  

Hi,
 
Im almost certain it will be the suspension top mount.
 
If you pop the bonnet, and look in the top right hand corner where the plastic grill is (right at the bottom of the windscreen). Look through the grill and you will see the suspension turret top mount.
 
They're pretty straight forward to replace. You can remove the plastic trim to get to the top strut mounting bolts. Then you need to remove the 2 mounting bolts that hold the strut to the hub carrier, disconnect the drop link and then remove the whole strut from the car.
 
Safely compress the spring using spring compressors and remove the top mount.
 
Obviously safety is critical here, as compressing suspension springs can be VERY dangerous, so if you haven't done it before, its best to take it to a garage. I replaced the top mount on mine a while ago and it was around £55 for the parts.
 
Hope that helps,
Alan

Hi,
 
Im almost certain it will be the suspension top mount.
 
If you pop the bonnet, and look in the top right hand corner where the plastic grill is (right at the bottom of the windscreen). Look through the grill and you will see the suspension turret top mount.
 
They're pretty straight forward to replace. You can remove the plastic trim to get to the top strut mounting bolts. Then you need to remove the 2 mounting bolts that hold the strut to the hub carrier, disconnect the drop link and then remove the whole strut from the car.
 
Safely compress the spring using spring compressors and remove the top mount.
 
Obviously safety is critical here, as compressing suspension springs can be VERY dangerous, so if you haven't done it before, its best to take it to a garage. I replaced the top mount on mine a while ago and it was around £55 for the parts.
 
Hope that helps,
Alan

Hi mate,
 
If you turn the steering wheel from lock to lock (full left to full right) do you get any noise coming from the same place?
 
Is the noise high up on the dash or low down in the foot well?
 
Alan

Hi mate,
 
There's a lot more to engine oils than people realise. Some oils contain extra additives and detergents to keep the engine running smoother and cleaner and protect certain parts etc. I tend to stick to main brands of oil such as shell, castrol etc for normal changes, and reserve the posh stuff for high performance cars or cars still under main dealer warranty. You can pick up some really cheap oil from places like ASDA but I tend to reserve this for flushes etc and dont run on it long term. (although nowadays ASDA own brand could well be Shell or Castrol etc)
 
Alan

Hi and WELCOME TO THE FORUM.
 
5w 30 fully synthetic oil is recommended for your 2.8.
 
Alan

Added a new feature to the site - pretty simple - you'll now see a "View Unreplied Topics" link next to the View New Content link in the top right.
 
Unsuprisingly, this will take you to a list of all the topics (within the last 30 days) which as of yet are unanswered So if you have some free time, why not help some people out with an answer?

Hi 7up,
 
The Grand Voyager has a PCD of  5x114 and Offset of 35.
 
The 300c on the other hand has PCD of 5x114.3 (Although this is sometimes argued as 5x115) and an Offset of 20.
 
I'm not an alloy expert, but I think I read before a PCD .3 difference is ok - however the large offset difference isn't going to work.

Hi mate,
 
No problem, glad you've sorted it!!
 
Alan

Well.... I gave out 9 flyers today. Every little helps and all that!
 
Alan

I'm seeing millions of you guys around now, and judging by the Google search result, we are being found
 
So don't be shy - this seems to be the only UK based Grand Voyager (and Voyager) forum out there - so you've got no excuse not to sign up and say hello

Here's a picture for you.
 
 
Alan

We need to get the word out!
 
And in the world of internetting, this means getting our links published.
 
So, a request to all our members - if ever you're on a site where it might be relevant to do so, let the people know about our new community
 
Deep linking is preferable if relevant (so if you were posting on a Grand Voyager site for example, use the http://www.chryslerforum.co.uk/forum/16-chrysler-grand-voyager/ link instead of just the homepage).
 
If you need to upload an image to go with the link, for now, we have this one: (click to make it full size)
 

 
The more links we have, the more people who will find us - and the more useful we become... so... go forth and spread the word!
 
(Even if it's just your own personal homepage, every little helps )

Hey Alan,
 
All done! I did exactly as you said and it all went fine! A few hair raising moments when I was prising the new chrome trim off the new handle, but I took my time as you said and it popped off in one piece!
 
Thank you once again
 
Rh

Hi,
 
Good luck, post back if you need any help, just take it nice and slow and easy when prising the chrome bit off as its easily damaged.
 
Alan

Hi,
 
It depends which part of the handle are damaged. As of yet you can't get the chrome bits individually and need to order a complete new handle.
 
If the front chrome part of the handle is damaged (the bit you pull to open the door) then you CAN remove the chrome piece from the new handle and replace the broken piece on your old handle without having to remove the unit from the car.
 
If it's the rear chrome piece (the bit where the key would go) then unfortunately this can't be replaced without removing the handle from the car, in which case it would just be better to replace the whole unit.
 
In order to remove the chrome piece from the front section of the handle, pull the handle towards you, and look down the side where it meets the rear piece (where the lock is). You will see a small torx screw. Undo this. Then from the same end, CAREFULLY prise the chrome section away from the handle. There are two clips either side that you need to over come. Once you have done that, there is a small bead of glue in the middle, keep prising and it will come away. Then, the opposite end if the chrome section simply slides AWAY from the lock end to release it from the handle.
 
Start with the damaged handle first so it doesn't matter if you break it when working out where the clips that I'm referring to etc are. Then move on to the new handle.
 
If you want to replace the whole handle then you need to remove the door card in order to get access to the rear of the handle.
 
Hope that helps and makes sense,
 
Alan

Hi,
 
I'm sure it is possible to get hold of second hand or unused new light units on places like eBay etc, however a quick search of eBay I've just done didn't reveal any for the 2008 on model. Plenty for the earlier voyagers etc though. I'm sure as time goes on they will become more readily available..
 
Alan

Hi,
 
Sorry to double post but here is a picture of the button I am refering to. Hopefully the light you are referring to also looks like the symbol on the button..
 

 
 
Alan

Hi and WELCOME TO THE FORUM!
 
It sounds like the traction control light. Did you by any chance put your hazard lights on when you stopped? The traction control button is just to the right of the hazard warning light switch. Sounds like you may well have caught the button. When the ignition is switched off the light resets and the traction control defaults to on (no light on dash). Have a press of the button next time your in the car just to confirm this is the warning light we are referring to.
 
Hope that helps,
Alan

Hi and WELCOME TO THE FORUM
 
As above, if you look at the end of your fob where the key ring part is, you can pull out a conventional key, and then if you go to the passenger side front door (uk spec vehicle) you can insert the key in the lock and manually unlock the door. Once you have jump started the car you can then unlock all the doors with the remote fob.
 
Hope that helps,
 
Alan

Hi and WELCOME TO THE FORUM
 
As above, if you look at the end of your fob where the key ring part is, you can pull out a conventional key, and then if you go to the passenger side front door (uk spec vehicle) you can insert the key in the lock and manually unlock the door. Once you have jump started the car you can then unlock all the doors with the remote fob.
 
Hope that helps,
 
Alan

Hi mate,
 
There's a lot more to engine oils than people realise. Some oils contain extra additives and detergents to keep the engine running smoother and cleaner and protect certain parts etc. I tend to stick to main brands of oil such as shell, castrol etc for normal changes, and reserve the posh stuff for high performance cars or cars still under main dealer warranty. You can pick up some really cheap oil from places like ASDA but I tend to reserve this for flushes etc and dont run on it long term. (although nowadays ASDA own brand could well be Shell or Castrol etc)
 
Alan

Hi and WELCOME TO THE FORUM.
 
5w 30 fully synthetic oil is recommended for your 2.8.
 
Alan

Hi mate,
 
No worries, glad you've sorted it!
 
Alan