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Camshaft Sprockets


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#1 Sentech

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Posted 30 March 2021 - 04:44 PM

My Timing Belt has done about 50K miles (since it was last changed) but it's over six years old so I intend to change it 

 

Can it be done without removing the Camshaft Sprockets or do I have to invest in the special tool to lock everything in place ?

 

How difficult is this job to do in situ ?


Edited by Sentech, 30 March 2021 - 04:44 PM.


#2 maxcaddy

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Posted 30 March 2021 - 05:19 PM

From memory you only need to undo the Sprockets' if you're getting access to undoing the Water Pump. If you're not changing the pump it's then very straightforward as long as you mark the positions etc.

 

Everyone will tell you to change the Pump as it's stripped down, but at 50 K I would be inclined to leave it alone assuming it was not leaking and that there was no pay on the end shaft. 

 

Allegedly the Belts are good for 80 - 100 K, but you're now into aging issues (>10 years) than actual wear, so a change is a safe bet.



#3 dave62pb

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Posted 31 March 2021 - 12:00 PM

Quite easy and straight forward if just doing the belt, as maxcaddy said at 50k your water pump should be ok but check your pulleys if the sound dry when you spin them - replace

I have just done major engine overhaul on mine at 130k and all the pulleys where dry (just caught in time )

Take off air filter /support engine / take off engine mounting / service belts / crank pulley /undo tin timing cover , if you have the car on ramps you can drop it out from the bottom 

The locking pin kit for cams is cheap on ebay , take off the starter motor there is a small yellow bung behind it where you put a locking pin in I used a short 1/4 drive socket extension

Turn the engine with a 21mm socket and bar until the hole in flywheel lines up , take out the small plugs on valve cover and screw in cam locking pins , when I put the new belt on I held to pump sprocket and timing gears the wood clothes pegs to stop it moving whilst setting tension 

I managed to get the pump marks to align after a couple of attempts of it moving , had to take tension off the belt remove idler pulley by the pump,  turn pump gear  a tooth the put it all back

Don't think the pump timing is critical as its just a high pressure pump, the marking  was out on mine before I removed the old belt I just put it all as it was intended

Hope this helps 

Cheers Dave



#4 Sentech

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Posted 05 April 2021 - 12:54 PM

Thanks to maxcaddy and dave62pb for your inputs.

 

I'm going to do the full hit and change the water pump too, so  I Just ordered a locking pin set.

 

Does anybody have a diagram or a photo of the cam and crankshaft locking locations ?

 

If I understand correctly I only lock these three places.

 

I watched a guy on youtube changing the belt on a 2,8 CRD Jeep. Apart from it not being transverse engine and having a cooling fan on the front, is it basically the same engine ?

 

I ask this because the locking pins fit both engines.

 

Chris


Edited by Sentech, 05 April 2021 - 12:58 PM.


#5 maxcaddy

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Posted 07 April 2021 - 10:08 PM

Yep, if it's the same YouTube as was there a couple of years ago, then it's a good representation, it's in effect the same engine turned 90 deg. I did manage to download a pic or 2 when I did mine, but that was a laptop or so ago. It's very straightforward by locking both cams and the crank, once the starter is out. There's a few hoses and things in the way which make it a bit awkward, but nothing too onerous. 

 

When I did mine, the Water Pump was OK so I didn't change it even though I'd already bought a new one as part of a full kit. However, if it's still running in another 4 yrs/40K, I will change it then  :) .



#6 dave62pb

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Posted 09 April 2021 - 01:44 PM

I down loaded the Jeep manual will try find the link for you , its got all the information you need 

The plugs for cam locking pins are one on front of valve cover inline with oil filler cap (if you take the cap off and turn the engine by hand you will see the hole in the cam where the locking pin goes in )

The exhaust cam plug is to the right side of thermostat housing , you will also have to make or buy a holding tool for the cam sprockets while undoing securing bolts (don't rely on cam locking pins as they can break easy ) I only installed them after I undid the securing bolts

I made holding tool out of 2 lengths of 25 mm angle iron bolted together at one end with bolts the other end the cam sprockets are just a taper fit and the bolts are tight






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