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Grad Voyager 2.5 Crd Fuel Bleeding


mikebh8
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Hi, I still struggle getting my grand voyager started ( it's been discussed in other topics).

Now I came to a point where bleeding it makes sense why it won't start. I managed to change the air flow sensor and I fitted the old pressure regulator valve ( for those who don't know, the current engine is a replacement and I still have the old one). I also added a bleeding pump and a picture is attached.

My question is, any comment is welcomed, when operating the pump, should get harden to the point where it seems that the fuel does not flow through anymore?  I tried on my brother in law's car and his, with the engine off, is soft on pumping it.

Also, the tank pump makes long buzz noise (about 10-15 seconds), when pumping a lot of air came through, now is constant when pumping into a bucket.

If anyone knows how to properly bleed this type of engine, please let me know.

 

Also, the timing was off one tooth, now is fine after buying the kit and using it.

As always, thanks for all the help.

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Just a random thought, how much fuel is in the car?
I had a Frontera once, and eventually read some where that it initially would need over a quarter tank of fuel to get it started. This was after an engine replacement too. 

No idea why this should make a difference, but thought I'd mention it just incase. 

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My fuel filter was renewed today and I thought bleeding the air out at the bleed valve where you have your hose fitted would be required. But all we did was prime the system several times with the ignition key and it started and ran ok. Noisy engine has been rectified as well but that's another story.

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Hi there,

 

I changed the filter on my 2005 2.8CRD last weekend, mine is the filter underneath by the tank. After doing the work I did similar to gordy. I just opened the valve under the filter housing and ran the key on and off to get the pump primed up. (It took a while, 20 key on/off's)

It then started up, stuttered once and then has been fine since, so didn't really need to bleed it or anything.

 

I'd say yes, hand pump you fitted should go hard after pump has ran it's initial 10-15 second start up as that point is where it should have pressurised the whole line up to the common-rail injector line. (I'm not a mechanical expert, this is from observations!)

 

I'd suspect if you're hearing/getting air in the line I'd be suspecting a cracked pump housing (It's slightly brittle plastic) and it's sucking air in down by the tank which could be causing your problems.

 

Check if yours has the filter on the underneath by the tank and start from there, as air getting in back there will cause all sorts of problems.

 

(Video probably going online at the weekend on changing the fuel filter on the rear edition of mine if you want to look/get any info).

 

Regards,

Andy

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Hi all,

I found some information about the fuel related to a Ford, I put fuel and now is just over a quarter.

Today I'll try the filter air/water bleeding valve by the filter which is located by the tank.

Thanks all for all the productive information, I can't wait to get it running specially now where the worming seats would be a luxury welcomed.

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Hello again.

I finally bought a ecu tester and after a diagnostic came out the fault in the picture attached .

could anyone tell me what it means, I have a clue but a second opinion never hurts?

Thank you.

 

P.S.  I meant to do the filter bleeding valve but the battery was dead, I'll have to wait few hours.

Edited by mikebh8
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