Andrips

Andy,

Is it just a case when you take off the pan, get the oil out, clean the pan and magnet and put everything back. Then fill in the oil through the dipstick hole? Probably using some funnel. Right?

I have a oil and filter and seal. I was about to do it on my other GV, but as usually more important things comes first. I'll see if diagnostic will be not to costly I'll do that and then will change the oil and filter.

Thanks.

So, I bought a second GV for my wife. This time petrol/lpg 3.3 and 2004 year. Bought it from a friend of mine, but now looks like he is dishonest - dodgy.

After some long driving the 3rd and 4th gear changes with clunk /kick. Under heavier acceleration. But not each change.

If I drive in the city, in slow traffic then no issues. If I'm on the motorway and have been driving for some good hour, then under heavier acceleration it's can jump out of 4th gear and rpm goes high (4500), if I will release the foot from the pedal, then around 2500 rpms it's will jump back in to the gear but with clunk /kick.

If I accelerate slowly, no issues.

Sometimes on the road if I accelerate fast then with kick it's will change to 3rd gear too. But not always.

I have checked oil level. It's shows add when cold, but it's in correct level after some 15 min driving.

Only thing what I have find out is, he changed oil 14k miles ago and unfortunately changed to gulf atf.

Dealer said its OK, should not be a problem.

I'm thinking of changing it to correct oil and adding some non slip grease.

Or it's to late and damage done?

I'm taking it on Saturday for diagnostic, will see what's will come up.

Yes, only one. I have 2005 and it's only in the engine bay.

Check this :

http://www.chryslerforum.co.uk/topic/1535-fuel-filter-2006-28crd/?do=findComment&comment=6385

QinteQ, did you flushed the system with water? How much antifreeze do I need?

I have bought 2x5 litres ready mixed comma g05, I'm not sure now if that's will be enough.

Do you have ABS light on as well ?

I would suggest that you check all connection and fuses related to the car alarm and imobilaiser.

As you already mentioned that if the key fob works, then engine will start. Open the key fob and give it a good clean.

I had similar issue couple days ago, that the car cranks and cut off. I had a car in car park and kids were in, so I didn't lock it. We were there close to one hour. When I tried to start, the car just cranked and stopped.

I locked the car from key fob and unlocked, car started straight away.

I would suggest checking out the Brake switch under the pedal.

Moog bushes are very hard rubber. You will be struggling to get them fitted. But Moog bushes are great for lower wishbone arm.

Meyle, Blueprint and few other cheap brand will not last long. Spend a little bit more and go for Lemforder, Febi, Mopar.

I found a leak from one of the injectors. Went to dealer, but he asks a lot of money to replace the o-ring seal or even more money to replace the injector. Local garages refuses to do the job, they think that injector have been stuck and they do not have right tools.

 

 

I found on eBay this one http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/181887489722?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2648&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

 

I was wondering if anyone has any experience with removing injectors, will this tool will be right for the job?

Check the fuse box lid, the fuse is marked up and the relay too. I think it's 17th fuse

Only one oil - Mopar atf +4 for atm transmission. Flushing could be done with the same oil, do not use any special fluids.

No special procedure, check out videos on YouTube. You will need to replace filter and seal.

I checked the exhaust pipe under the driver seat, haven't checked at the rear, maybe vibration not so bad there.

I also noticed yesterday (while I was checking out the auxiliary heater) that the exhaust vibrates a lot, was thinking about rubber need change, but if you are saying that it still does it, I will not change.

Then the alternator pulley to change. I can't find the threads anymore, but I think they'll where on this forum.

I do have some vibration when I am stopped and it's in D and now even in Neutral mode.

I found couple threads about that and could be the front engine mount or alternator pulley. Will change the engine mount over the weekend and if problem will stay then probably all alternator belt kit with pulleys.

Junglehead, did you got the top mounts replaced? Any changes?

How much was the installation, if you don't mind me asking.

Thanks bignev, I found few local ones and will give them a ring.

Thanks matgriff, I found the guide. Already ordered the stat.

Bignev, could you please tell more about the mobile guy. I have only one remote, would be nice to have a spare.

Hi,

I'm new to the forum and voyager. I have mine gv 05 2.8 for less then month. 120k miles on the clock.

I have the same knocking noises. Had the drop links, tie rods, wishbone bushes replaced, but it didn't help. I have a receipt from previous owner about the top mount change and it's done last year. Don't think it's the case. I will change the anti roll bar bushes at some point next week.

 

I had the oil leak near the oil cooler, when the oil filter was replaced we noticed that the old one was a bit lose, looks like the common fault. No leaks anymore.

 

Also have the bad thermostat, looks like it's will be a pain to replace. Maybe will take to the local garage to do the job.

 

 

Junglehead, what millage you have. Manual stated that the timing belt interval is 100k miles. I found some info on the Web, where people suggest that interval must be 60k for heavy /city use, 80k is good choice.

Do you still have a problem with gearbox

Look in USA forum, I think it's OK if the gears are switching with the kick some short time after oil and filter change.

Manual or automatic ?

If automatic you can buy the seal and new filter.

http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/AUTOMATIC-TRANSMISSION-FILTER-CHRYSLER-VOYAGER-2004-2007-2-8CRD-4-SPEED-/272016070182?nav=SEARCH