bignev

Good news
Yes it's a pressure gauge not a fuel level gauge so it never really gives you an accurate level on how much you have left. Mine can go from full to empty in a matter of a few miles, then other times it will show as almost empty and last quite a while. You'll learn to reset the trip after every fill up, that will give you a better idea on when you'll need to fillup.

Yep pretty damn certain it's alternator as mike said, from the earlier info too. If the voltage didn't change with it running.
 
My petrol wasn't bad at all to swap, getting the belt back on by myself was a sod!

No worries fella!
we're on here to help each other along - and I know you're good!
And I'll take all the help I can get with mine!!! hee hee

Hiya Qinteq,
 
huh what ? What ref to DTC's?
 
The OP asked how to switch ON the traction control, and said his switch was stuck.
And didn't mention a problem, and hasn't commented on - the other replies (so come on fella chip back in)
 
Has the OP @@roberttherebel57 got TRAC OFF lit up on his dash below the mileometer / trip?
 
Or were you simply asking, as you were interested, as you didn't realise it's always on?

Got a feeling this Q is long since dead!

It was that simple!
I cant believe I could have missed it for so long and spent so much money on trying to chase down one nasty noise!
Why did the dealer never find it when under warranty?
I've bought and fitted almost every part on the front end and as I replaced each part the noise got worse.
OK I'll stop teasing. For my particular vehicle it was as simple as below. Yours maybe different? Who knows.
 
The torque for the top strut mount nuts should be set at 27nm
They were barely set at 19nm 
Did them all at 27nm and I've had not one clunk since!
Now done a few hundred miles over country lanes, with big potholes, with just normal suspension noise for the type of road and tyres fitted.
Its like Christmas has come early

i have since put a longer pipe on and have it running a bigger bend when doing one do the other as well 
but have seen in Wilcos that they do a quick connect the correct size 
will say buy 16mm hose by 10m roll was a money saver as have hand the long metal heating pipe that are in front rust on bracket so ran new hose there as well

Hi m8,
 
It was me! And I'm actually right in the middle of doing exactly that. I've got a double-din Android head unit to install and so I'm mapping out all the wiring, amp system, how it works, etc.
 
Good and bad news, the bad news is that if you want to replace the factory RB3 unit you're in for a lot of work as you'll have to replace the AMP too. The AMP (rear right hand side behind the speaker) powers on and controls its balance and fader using CANBUS, so tapping into that is a no-go (There are commercial boxes but at a few hundred quid I'd not be convinced without them letting me return it! And I'd rather not pay that kind of money).
 
The good news is if you just want to 'push' audio in (Like the Parrot bluetooth systems, etc) then you can from the head unit outputs, as I've discovered all the ISO wiring harnesses are generally WRONG for my specific model, but by testing and careful trial and error I've found the left and right +/- speaker out from the factory head unit, so you'd be able to 'patch' into these to push audio (Factory head unit would have to be on and that would still control volume, fader, balance, etc).
 
 
So my plan to do this:
Remove factory AMP completely.
Add additional wiring from the rear (where the amp was, and where it feeds all 8 speakers) to the front dash so I can wire the speakers direct into my new head unit
 

 
My speakers are infinity (They don't say that on the front, but when I removed the speaker it shows infinity on it)

 
 
Their ohms resistance is only 2, so they'll need a decent head unit to drive them. My head unit I bought is a 4x45watt unit which *should* be enough, but I'm going to have to pair the speakers together (two front left, two front right, two rear left, two rear right) so I'm going to put those in series to make a 4ohm load, which will reduce the output power but should allow for better control and without blowing the head unit. If volume is still too low then I'll have to bite the bullet and buy a replacement amp to install too.
 
Hope that gives you a bit of info, as I progress I'll start to write it onto my website and youtube videos to follow!

For anyone else out there looking to do the same.
 
Here’s a good video for anyone looking to do the same: https://youtu.be/jdie4bJQGWYI think it’s in Spanish though, but good that you can see how to. He’s used 41mm festoon led’s.

Hiya Rich and welcome!
Yep that definitely illustrates the versatility of these buses, especially the Stow n Go seats hey!
 
Lets hope you have a good experience with it!
 
Cheers!
Nev

The bit you're looking for looks like this one:
 
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Rear-Sliding-Door-Door-Lock-Actuator-For-Chrysler-Voyager-Dodge-Grand-Caravan/182550266453?_trkparms=ao%3D1%26asc%3D20170912102017%26meid%3D93411373f2d64380a28e2f19b808edb9%26pid%3D100706%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D1%26&_trksid=p2045573.c100706.m4781

Hi there,
Presuming it won't work with any of the locking controls, the switch on the drivers door as well, then start with the central locking actuator in the offending sliding door, swap it for the other sliding door one to totally confirm, same motor but different arm.

These are some photos of the small coolant hose that runs to the oil cooler on my 2.5 CRD.  I was quoted £100 plus by a Chrysler dealer.  I found a used one on ebay.  If you have to get someone to make one up, the following measurements might be of use:
 
Inner diameter of the hose:  15mm
Outer diameter of the hose:  24mm (this may have stretched a little bit)
The wall thickness of the hose seems to be around 4mm
 
Height of the U if you stand it on a table : 62mm
Width of the U :  about 60mm
 
 
Hope this helps.
 
 

bignev,
 
I bought one of those ebay items and fitted it last weekend.   Touch wood - I'm not losing anymore coolant!  :-D
 
I'm going to attach some photos of the old pipe and give some dimensions just in case someone else needs to get one of these made up....

I'd guess looking towards the US for ideas would be the best idea, maybe some sort of airbag system. Would be good as you could then drop it right down for getting in and out, then raise it for comfortable driving

Hi,
 
Just to put a 'downer' on the solar chargers, if you do a few calculations using Ohms law.
At 12v and 1.5watts the output of that panel gives you 0.125amps which is 125milliamps.
 
(Assuming 12v output from the panel, I'd expect it to be a little higher but even at 14v it's still 0.14amps)
 
So, residual draw from the ECU and BCM would have to be less than 125milliamps for this solar charger to do anything other than just supply the ECU/BCM, therefore I'd recommend against the solar chargers and go for topping up with a proper battery charger (To be honest, the cheapest of the cheap are just as good. I *hate* that modern chargers are now 'smart' and will decide if they're going to top up your battery or not depending on it's voltage and some simple calculations on current/draw, but that's a separate rant!).
So just get a cheapo mains battery charger from a supermarket or similar and plug it in now and again.
 
That said, I do recommend the buttonmod resistor for the battery, it's not a difficult mod and there are lots of howto's floating around for it so have a read up too :-)

Yes that's of course another fault - a lose hose.
 
The expansion bottle cap has 2 functions, and therefore sections -
 
1) to keep it pressurised to a set level then release the "over pressure" value, which should just be air if the bottle is not over filled. Hence the value marked on it, possibly say 1.1 bar.
 
2) then allow air back into the bottle as the system cools and the pressure drops below its' set value, and as this happens the coolant level drops back into the system.
 
So if the bottle cap isn't controlling the pressure at all properly, the water will expand when heated and piddle out of the top of the bottle - like my Galaxy just did.
 
The expansion of water from 20 deg to 80 deg is 10%, a fair bit, so the pressure goes up and the air in the bottle is at pressure.
 
On a house, "sealed" central heating systems, no tanks in the loft, as in combi boilers etc, we have expansion vessels, either usually in the boiler, or if they fail and can't be sensibly replaced (as on older boilers) an external red vessel connected somewhere on the heating pipework.
 
A radiator cap as on my 3.3 GV performs a similar function, but the over pressure relief is coolant into the expansion bottle, then the smaller metal disc in the cap pulls down when the pressure drops to allow coolant back into the rad.

Hi Argee, 
 
I've recently had a similar experience on our 1.8 diesel Galaxy, at this point I've swapped the expansion bottle cap for a new one and it seems to be hopefully behaving itself.
Because if the cap fails the coolant isn't pressurised so can boil up in the first instance - like yours and mine getting very hot - then will leak out, but we would be keeping a close eye on the temp hey!!
 
Not sure what side the bottle is on yours?

And well what do you know, our 2005 has just done the same thing, again.
 
Only this time the resisitors are far more readily available, part number 04885482AC, and only £20 to £30 on that wonderful market place ebay.
 
i got one only a few miles from home, £20, fitted and sorted, well for now.......

I've noticed this morning, my neighbour's car was full of water on the inside of the windscreen and mine wasn't, I am just lucky I guess, however it is not normal.
A quick fix, until the real problem is found and solved, is few socks full of cat litter sand under the seats.
To check for where the humidity comes in through...check for any missing or loose rubber caps between the engine bay and inside the car, door trims and water leaks.
I personally wouldn't be scrapping (or wiping with a cloth for that matter) the inside of the windshield. Leave the heat on for extra minutes if required.
 
Hope it helps.

Thank you @@bignev and @@mikebh8 it just means she gets to boss me around officially now! ;-)

Hey -  Congratulations there!!!!

Same here on my 3.3 lpg. Not the most intelligent autobox in the world

Or does it have too low a viscosity oil in there, if it's ok on start up till the oil thins and the perceived pressure drops. Had it on an Impreza quite a few years ago, not quite the same as the oil pressure light would come on when starting hot and take a while to go out, soon swapped it back to Mobil 1!

Repaired mine today, there was a broken wire as intimated.  Interestingly, not only was the wire broken, but it had also cracked in about eight places, revealing the bare wires beneath!  Took about 40 minutes, the video above was a real help!  Thanks again!!