bignev

hi guys newbie here 

check first - no app or HPi required FREE

The checks revealed a category C right off!!  
 
There are some unscrupulous dealers around ladies and gents, beware.

Hiya @@gordy, yep just for them there sooty diesels, Diesel Particulate Filter, fricking pest.
My Mazda 6 2.0 that had a 32 mile each way commute STILL cocked up.
I'm rather glad my van is just a teeny but too old for one, the last of the Euro 3 models.
 
And the code could apparently be, possibly, too rich a mixture, if the sensor and wiring are good.
The high voltage (which is still very low - less than 1 volt) is caused by the mixture!
I didn't know that - found it on a trouble shooting site:
 
http://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/chrysler/3.9L-5.2L-5.9L/how-to-test-code-P0132-page-1
 
And yes it's a bit of a bigger engine than we get! So may not be completely applicable to this - beware!

Spot on Mike, handy that, good reference for a lot of faults and info. Just one downside, no P1 fault codes in there, but that's only a minor thing. I've already looked up sensors, testing and their guide ohm or voltage values, which is invaluable for testing sensors.
 
I found the getuid files missing, so grabbed them elsewhere and I've attached here just in case anyone else has problems.
 
getuid.zip

Hi, I have in my garden from 2.5 2003 diesel, I specify diesel as it comes with turbo cooler.
The measurements are:
Between the top bracket is 51cm
Whole length is about 94cm
Aircon radiator is 78x44 cm plus the connections to the pipes on the left.
Depth with the fans is about 22cm.
I don't know if you wanted just the radiator or the whole assembly but this is what I have.
 
Hope it helps.

Hi there, welcome to the club fantastic cars when they're not acting up!
My previous gv had the same problem with the door locks, quick 'fix' pop the bonnet, go to the fuse box and take the Iod fuse out for a few seconds. Back in and they'll start working.
I think it's caused by a sticky lock actuator, so if you feel like it, take door cards off and clean them up, lube them up and it might sort it.
(mine was because the rear doors had their popup locks removed as it was used as a taxi, and I suspect this was causing jamming problems)

Hi, please the picture attached.
 
Hope it helps.

Mine too!
 
(yes, I know,  mines petrol!!)
 
Marked up for the fuel pump.

morning, everyone!
newly registered
Silver 300c Touring 2008 - plate L500 OMM - 105k miles
bought in Mansfield nr Sheffield in December 2107 for everyday use
so far so good
also have Subaru SVX being refettled

Hi, yesterday the rear left brake pipe snapped ( luckily I was bleeding the brakes and not on the motorway)
So I thought I search online for a replacement.
For those that didn't know I wanted to share this:
eurocarparts is selling it with 71.99 and carparts4less with 48.03.
The point is that carparts4less belongs to Eurocarparts.
 
Hope it helps and always keep an I on low prices.

GV Handbrick

My Shoe Backplates, dust covers, flying saucers, on mine are a bit knaff...Got to use 4mm machine screws through the springs and shoes to secure...
5073 640AA - RH.
5073 641AA - LH
Found a supplier but they don't go by those part no's.
Car off road at mo....It's tooo cold outside for my knackered body...
Amen......

Hi All!
 
Ollie here, just joined.  Just purchased a Chrysler Grand Voyager 2.8 CRD Limited XS in Black.  Love it.
 
Really looking forward to meeting you all on here.
 
Ollie  

How do we know that he doesn't ???? ;-)
 
Like the Punto and power steering system failure.. usually follows a clutch change . . The engine earth is more of a culprit than the actual power steering
 
Just cos he died after his breakfast, doesn't mean that it was the breakfast that killed him !!!

I finally got the car running. But it's a tricky one, as I had to bypass the small starter relay. 
Looks like a loose, damaged  wiring  or worn the ignition barrel. Will try to find out over the weekend.
Thanks for your help. 
http://content7-foto.inbox.lv/albums/a/aabbxx/Voyager-N1DXE/IMG-20180108-202615.sized.jpg?1515448887

- Clicking relays are flat battery
- Headlamps on mainbeam and IGN turned to crank
 - - lights go dim = battery
 - - lights don't go dim = trigger wire / spade
- As bigev says - volts aren't AMPS, got that right, if only all the people knew why 
 
Check the trigger, 99/100 its just a manky spade etc, more than that start here. Best of luck.

Thanks Mike/Nev,
I thought about auto-shutdown, but it's a more precise point of cutting out than a potential random electrical drop, plus the LED/signal test I've now done with the fuel solenoid I believe eliminates anything about the ECU shutting the engine down as it doesn't try to kill the fuel supply/solenoid (Which would be an obvious first shutdown kill-switch to pull).
 
One thing, on the .com forum somebody mentioned the solenoid is more a valve than on/off, so a binary LED test may not be 100% accurate, although it did stay constantly on, so it was good enough for my test.
 
Nev, not sure on the fuel line block, not sure how to check that easily either, other than somehow cutting a bit of line and putting clear pipe to 'watch' for bubbles or collapse of the pipe. High pressure fuel pump under-delivering is a real possibility. The HP pump is directly driven from the timing belt, unsure if it's 'timed' as such on these engines and if that has an impact, but my understanding is the HP pump gives out a constant 'high' pressure fed to the line, the injectors take their pressure/required squirt and anything over is returned via the over-pressure/return lines, so in theory if the pump isn't giving out enough pressure it would affect all engine speeds, not just higher.
True enough on not being able to re-pressure the system, Steve and my own experiences show the low-pressure/electric lift pump seems to HAVE to run to re-prime the system which fits with your experience on the Galaxy.
 
I'm wondering if a punt of a second hand injector and then doing injector swapping might highlight one or more faulty ones causing it. Long shot, but again so far I've spent very little cost on this so a £50 ebay injector might be worth a go, providing they're not wedged in too tightly.
 
Steve, mine also developed this, have had it almost 3yrs now and other than occasional tough starting in the cold (even after glo plugs changed) it's never failed in this way, so yes I'd agree it's developed and got worse over time, so wear and tear probably.
Also Steve, good luck on the fuel filter replacement, it seems a lot of people after doing that resolve this problem, so I think there are a few different scenarios that cause this issue, so there may not be one right answer unfortunately. I'm tempted to change the filter on mine, it looked fine to me and was replaced last year but for the sake of another 20 mins and £30 it might be worth doing just incase something silly like a load of gunk in there has jammed it that I can't see and is choking it (Kinda contrary to my thoughts earlier on the HP pump, but at the moment I'm trying just about anything in reason!)
 
As always will keep posting back :-) Good luck Steve, thanks for posting back it's appreciated having another set of eyes on the problem. Pity you're all the way in sunny France otherwise would happily swap notes over a cuppa!

Andy,
 
Many thanks for your extremely helpful and informative response.
 
I took her out this morning to check for sure if the oil light, etc., come on or not when the power cuts and would you believe it, for the very first time since the problem started, she ran faultlessly! Perhaps it's because I drove very smoothly and quite slowly without any hard acceleration? I'll take her out again later and have another try.
 
No, I don't have a red indicator on top of the steering column but I've just noticed an unidentified rocker switch on the RHS of the column and just seen the traction control switch for the first time (it's notionally my wife's vehicle, I've only really started driving it since the problem started....).
 
I tried the 3 times ignition on "key dance" and got P1130 fault code in the odometer window which seems to confirm that the problem is fuel pressure - possible faults under that code in Chrysler documentation are:
 
P1130-FUEL RAIL PRESSURE MALFUNCTION LEAKAGE DETECTED.
P1130-FUEL RAIL PRESSURE MALFUNCTION PRESSURE TOO HIGH-SHUT OFF
P1130-FUEL RAIL PRESSURE MALFUNCTION PRESSURE TOO LOW 
P1130-FUEL RAIL PRESSURE MALFUNCTION SOLENOID OPEN 
 
Also, it took 6 long seperate turnovers to cold start this morning but once warmed up it starts first turn of the key - faulty glow plugs maybe a red herring here? 
 
You are clearly much more knowledgeable, (my car mechanics experience goes back to when "God was a boy" and I worked in a garage on Saturdays and school hols then repaired my first car for reasons of poverty rather than love of car repairs!) but I find it odd that the cut out always occurs under load, never when the car is idling even when revved - this seems to rule out the Fuel Pump - SOLENOID (mentioned above in the fault codes).
 
Your fuel lines do look very pristine, maybe a previous owner was having this problem and they got replaces as part of the hunt for the fault?
 
Crank Position Sensor sounds a possibility - maybe that would explain why mine always restarts easily after the cutout? Maybe I'm grasping at straws......
 
I replaced the Mass Air Filter after getting a P100 code some months back and it seemed to solve that particular problem (running rough, loss of power) so maybe it's all inter-related?
 
Anyway, my new filter and filter housing for the HP Pump will be here in a few days ditto your crank sensor so we'll see where that gets us! LOL
 
Thanks for your help once again,
 
Best,
S

Hi Steve,
 
Interesting, thanks for the feedback, I'm also thinking it's not injectors as i'd expect more return flow from one or more, and in theory I'd hear 'missing' where one or more were not firing correctly (due to over or under fuelling), which isn't the case, this is a complete cut out.
Interesting the immobiliser, does yours have the red indicator on top of the steering column? If so, does that light during the problem, mine doesn't which is why I'm also eliminating the immobiliser in my case (If the car gets immobilised I'd expect cut out and all dash lights to go out, mine remains lit with what you'd expect if you stalled the car, oil pressure light, etc). The fact that you need to lock then unlock the car though is a decent thinking that it's related to the BCM/Immobiliser on yours, or the chip in the key perhaps. Have you a spare set of keys, if so I'd give those a go to see if any difference?
 
So today I've checked the fuel filter/lift pump. To clear up the confusion, mine is a 2.8CRD 2004/2005 which has an electric lift pump at the rear beside the tank, the filter is inside the plastic pump housing. I've attached photos to be clear! (There are so many variations)
Checked the plastic housing, O-ring, filter and what I could see of the fuel lines and all look good to me, no cracks in the filter housing, filter itself in decent condition, etc.
So now onto my next thought, crank position sensor. I've ordered a replacement VM Motori replacement crank sensor so will swap that and see what I find next!
 
Good luck Steven, hope you get yours tracked down.
 
This is the filter and electric lift pump housing, which is on the driver side (RHD) of the fuel tank just in front of the rear axle:

 
Filter and plastic base housing has been unscrewed/removed:
 

 
Looking straight up into the pump housing:
 

 
Fuel lines running towards front of vehicle. Is it just me or do these look new-ish condition? I think they do and the tank looks relatively new too, so could these have been replaced before I purchased a couple of years ago perhaps?
 

 
So onto the crank sensor. If it's not crank sensor then perhaps fuel solenoid or high pressure pump itself.
 

Yes Everyone "MERRY CHRISTMAS" to you ALL... So with a Hic..Burp...Belch...Not so much Boaking....Whine Here...There...Starter Whirring...No Start...Kick it There...Hammer Even...Fill the Tank...Again...Sit...Drink...Have Another...Hic....Zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz....

Hi Guys!
 
Hope you all have a very Merry Christmas!
 
All the best
 
Nev

Sorry to say Loved France when we went in Motorhome. So Bl**dy laid back. Quiet roads. Old world Villages and Towns. Had intension of going to work and live there but contract fell through. Blast...And weather...what more can you ask for...

It's exactly like mine:
 
-The tool with red handle is for the tensioner pully( be careful as on mine the pins snapped, I fitted some screws in the holes)
- the tool like a nidle is for the shaft balancer( only need it if the engine has been dismantled)
- from bottom left first one is for the exauhst cam shaft( the one towards the car, the hole is near the thermostat)
- second one left is for the intake camshaft( the hole is behind the alternator)
Third one left is for the crankshaft( the hole is behind the starter thus needing to be removed)
 
The other ones are for other engines like jeep Cherokee or different models of grand voyagers.
 
If I may suggest:
I shared an YouTube link with a Russian guy doing a cam belt replacement which is very useful (is somewhere in my posts)
After making sure everything is locked, I undone the camshafts bolts, doing that it makes it very easy to put the new one up, but when tightened them back on pit something between the pullies to block them for twisting( for the exauhst cam
above and for the intake cam below, I used a small ratchet extension) also remember to get the wipers cover and motor casing out to have more room to put the exauhst blocking pin.
 
And while you're there do the water pump too.
Any more questions, please ask if I don't know I'm sure someone in here will give you an answer.
 
Hope it helps.