I measured the alternator ohms to the battery and had continuity. Apparently there's a fusible line that can blow. I then ran the engine after I pulled off the ALT (2-wire) exiter connector, which is difficult to get off. You push the red tag down with a screwdriver and wiggle! This made the charge warning/ battery light come on. Putting it back in made it go out after a few seconds. This is a good sign that the computer's ok apparently. Still No volts coming direct from the alternator. I then swapped the alternator out and all was well. I then test drove and all the gears work again, so RESULT! I didn't do any key dancing as I've never been able to get it to work. Thanks for your help! Good luck with yours!!! I haven't checked, but apparently the exiter when running right should have 5 ish volts on one lead and 14 odd on the other. The 5 volts is really PWM but it's what the meter sees. Had I checked it with the duff alternator it probably would have been no volts and 11.8V (battery dependent) I will stand corrected on this though! Oh yes... on the old one the clutch was visibly slipping if you watched the pulley end of the alternator. I don't know if this was due to any shorted turns causing load/ mag-drag (have I made this term up?) or just the clutch being duff. Certainly the clutch was squeeky and rough feeling compared to the newish replacement. Ebay seemed to think my van was incompatible with any 80 quid alternators, because it seemed to think I had a 163 bhp version when I didn't. What was interesting was that the second hand alt paperwork had the VIN of the doner vehicle logged on it, and it clearly showed it was from the same engine type as mine i.e the 8th and 10th digits of the VIN were 5 & 7. This means, if they all have this kind of data, that you can ask the breaker about the VIN to be sure you're getting a match, if you can't be arsed to take the old one out first to see the part no. Good luck!