jonnyjeep

Update time, if anyone is interested At cold start (now on warmer days), voltage has again started fluctuating up & down & there is now a sqeaking noise that sounds like it's coming from the alternator. After a couple of minutes, the noise goes away & voltage stabilizes. So it's not the brushes or any weak electrical link, it's obviously the alternator bearings......so new alternator it is then

It may need flashing, as ABS pumps, in my limited experience of owning one of these cars, need to paired to the PCM using software that no local garages seem to have & only a limited amount of main dealers still have. This might help....http://www.chryslerforum.co.uk/topic/5533-u140e/

Alternator/generator seems to be working fine now in the warmer weather and it's happy to chuck out a good output so that the PCM internal voltage regulator can do it's job. Not sure why it was so badly affected by sub zero temperatures, but my guess is that the brushes weren't contacting properly due to flood water getting into alternator (it's pretty low down), coupled with freezing temperatures & usual crud build up preventing the brushes from contacting. Had a similar thing last winter on my Henry vacuum cleaner that is kept in the shed. It wouldn't work, because the brushes had seized inside their housings, due to build up of normal crud that had thickened due to moisture & the cold temperature

Okay....I've learned a little more about this car since the last post.....and it seems that the voltage regulator is built within the PCM. So that means the alternator isn't really an alternator, it's just a generator....that simplifies things

Hi AngelsEnvy, wouldn't a faulty starter relay prevent the starter motor from turning the engine ? I thought that Lord300 mentioned that the engine was turning, but not starting, so I assumed it wasn't a starter problem. As regards to relays in general, I've always found that the main problem with relays is microscopic cracks in solder joints that stop them working. Usually you can pry off the cover & with a magnifying glass, start looking for cracked solder, usually on the circuit board pins. I've always found that, after a re-solder, relays have started working properly again

Assuming the fuel pump is priming when you switch ignition to 'on' & you have good fuel pressure & the glow plug light goes out, try flicking the key to start & then let go (don't hold it). In cold weather, this method of starting works for me everytime on the CRD Apart from this, then maybe new glow plugs ?....But your only way forward really is having a diagnostic scan to determine the actual cause rather than just replacing parts

Looking defo like a new alternator is on the cards. Went out in the 300C yesterday & for the first couple of miles, charging voltage was pretty much all over the place, ranging from 12 V to 14.6V, but battery light didn't come on. Once car was warmed a little then charging settled to normal. Possibly a lazy diode ?....either way, it's defo a new alternator, as this one will obviously go completely at some point in the near future. Replacement procedure according to the workshop manual looks a bit more than just a couple hours....more like a couple of days !. Hopefully alternator will last until weather is a little better, as I don't have a garage Has anyone replaced the alternator themselves on the 300C CRD and is there an easier way of doing it, as opposed to the workshop manual method ? Any replies will be greatly appreciated

Well a week has passed since the battery light on & low charging issue, but all has been fine. I've done about 100 miles, but have kept the battery charge indicator on the dash diag (music & compass buttons held for a few seconds) on all the time, as things like this always make me paranoid about getting stuck somewhere. One thing about using the dash diag, you can see what the highest electrical loads are on the car by turning wipers/lights etc on & off. I have found that the full beam headlights are by far the highest drain on the charging system, causing a drop of 0.3V. Have also found, that if you cycle through the various settings, there is a 0-60mph timer. I haven't tried it yet...but it sounds interesting

Hi all, I have a possible problem with my alternator and really would appreciate any advice After driving through alot of puddles and a few 4" - 6" floods last Friday, come Saturday morning the battery light on the dash illuminated about half a mile from home, so I turned around & went straight back. Come Sunday, started car & all was fine for about 10 seconds, then battery light came on. Wipers & electric windows were slow & battery voltage (using music/compass buttons on steering wheel to display dash diagnostics) was reading 11.5 volts. After a minute or so, reading went back to normal 14.5 volts. A quick diagnostic spewed up a U1132 code - lost communication with generator. I cleared code and hoped for the best. Driving around yesterday for about 20 miles and using the music/compass buttons, voltage seems to be reasonably steady displaying between 14.3 - 14.6 volts depending on electrical load. There are no more fault codes using my autel reader and my laptop 'appcardiag FCA' diagnostic software confirms that there is no problem & no more fault codes. I know that alternator failure can be immediate or intermittent, in my case it may possibly be intermittent, but is there a possibility that the problem may have been caused by the amount of puddles/floods around last Friday soaking the lower engine ?....are there any connections that could have been soaked & temporarily shorted ? Also, not really relevant, but possibly could be. Does anyone know what the black cylinder looking thing with two clips either side is on top of the alternator ? This thing wasn't clipped together properly on one side, but it is now

My first post here since buying my 2007 Chrysler 300C CRD back in February this year. I have a problem with the volume control on the steering wheel....the up button works, but the down button doesn't Any thoughts ?

Sorry, should have posted this in the problems page. Next time I will...promise Anyway, if anyone was wondering what the solution was to code U140E....it was indeed down to a long term flat battery. Took the car to 'D.Salmon' in Colchester today & they sorted it out within an hour. They re-flashed the PCM, took it for a test drive & all sorted. I've got to admit that I have always been a bit wary of main dealers, but 'D.Salmon' were the only place in Essex that I could find that were still servicing Chryslers & still had Starscan/Wi-Tech & the knowhow to use it. They have now changed my opinion of main dealers. They were absolutely fantastic & the guy doing the job really did know what he was doing, he was a real pro & so much more knowledgeable than every local garage/mechanic that looked at it & said.."it's the ABS pump mate ! " The price was £99 (inc VAT) & I suppose that also includes the one off £35 pass to Techauthority for access to the Chrysler database, so that's not a bad price. After four months of owning a Chrysler 300C with no ABS, ESP, Cruise control etc & not having the software to fix it (I thought I did when I bought it, but I was wrong), it's nice to finally find a main dealer (open after the lockdown has lifted) that still has the tech to service Chryslers.

Hi everyone, my name is Jon & I'm a newbie, so please be gentle....but I do bite if provoked I bought a 2007 Chrysler 300C CRD a couple months ago with 78,000 on the clock, from someone who had had it sitting on the driveway for a while with a flat battery. He jumped started it for me when I went to view it & I noticed that the ABS, ESP, traction lights were lit up on the dash. At the time I considered this a minor fault because I was buying it for probably £1000-£1500 less than what most were selling for on autotrader & other online selling media. After fitting a brand new brand Exide 900A battery the lights still didn't go out. I have since read alot about these cars not liking having a flat battery for a while or even being jump started. Anyway, the code I get from both my Delphi & Appcar diag FCA laptop diagnostic software is U140E. The Appcar diag FCA is a recent one that I bought & it seems to do quite alot. But the Delphi software is the only one that will actuate the ABS pump. Seeing that I can actuate the ABS pump via the Delphi software, then I'm assuming that the module & pump are working fine & that it really is down to the fact that the battery was dead for so long, or that a jump start may have messed with the ECU. I'm thinking that the ECU needs to be re-flashed by a main dealer using their Starscan. Trouble is, at the moment, there are no main dealers open due to Covid-19. Anyone know of an independent garage that may have Starscan for chrysler/jeep/mercedes in south Essex ? Anyway, sorry for such a long newbie introduction