AngelsEnvy

No supplier seems to have anything newer than a 2012 disc ! I assume it's because that was the last of the 300C years with an REJ head unit. I did think about trying a newer Jeep disc but was advised against it. Of course now they don't even have a disc as they come via a USB install. Cant do that on the REJ system so now use WAZE on the phone.

Let me know how it goes. As I said, without access to the old fashioned ramp with shaker plates I would never have tracked the issue down. The faulty one was on the passenger side and when under pressure, on a standard hoist, everything was tight so the pry bar was useless as all bushes appeared good with no movement. These new lifts may save space but they don't meet all of the needs and so stuff slips through the net. I had stripped the entire front suspension out and replaced everything that looked iffy and as I told you had drilled, taped and die'd, fitted grease nipples replaced rubber for poly and still that knock persisted. Now had three years or so with no knocks of any kind. I have to offer a word of caution regarding fitting 22 inch rims, you may introduce further knock problems! Not confident that the off the shelf parts fitted to the car are up to the extra weight involved ! Be lucky..

Yep, been using them both for and off for about 10yrs, don't have everything and occasionally a little on the pricey side but agree they are worth using.

No worries, I'll go onto the bay and order same as your picture. Once again thanks for your efforts and hopefully the heavier duty drop links will sort the knock for you. As I said, I upped the anti-roll bar to a 33mm and used poly bushes but that has no effect on the knock, just handles way tighter and combined with the rear mods, tyres and suspension, its way less tail happy under heavy acceleration and damp conditions. Be lucky and catch you out on the open road one day ! Steel Blue Pearl with mesh grill.

Very nice too and kept well. Just had a reply from GSF offering this one as the unit that fits? Was yours a thread or a push on? Hope you can see the picture. Thanks again for the replies.

Mine's a Lux. I bought it for the wife who had a back issue and couldn't get in and out of a Range Rover, too high, and liked the S-Class ease of entry but not the vehicle. Took her to see the 300c and after a test drive she loved it so bought one for her. It had all the nonsense on it as standard, 20 inch rims and the MyMusic HDD and every other extra it could possibly have. The bonus was GM were in dire straits financially and so I gave almost nothing for it. Lost the missus a couple of years ago but can't bring myself to sell it or let it go. Only got 69000 miles from new and as I said I've done all the servicing since the warranty ceased. Build quality may be rubbish, parts less than adequate but a charm you can't deny and for motorway use there aint many to beat it.

Thanks for that. I'll give them a ring in the morning and have asked a couple of sellers on e-Bay to confirm that the ones they are selling will fit mine. if I get a yes I'll buy a couple..

I have to assume your motor is a good few years newer than mine as they don't carry any parts for mine. I've dropped them an email and await a response. Mine is a 2006/7 model for reference. All the ECT's that came up were for 2010 or above. But thanks for trying..

Fantastic my man I'll get onto the sites now and get a couple ordered. Worth having a spare and if not needed I'm always able to help out a local. Ah, bit of a problem, they no longer carry them!

Listen, if you don't drive a Rangie here you are considered both poor and to have no taste at all.

I had replaced the anti roll bar, upped it to US Police spec for the Charger, and had fitted poly bushes but still had the knock. I asked a mate, in Norfolk, if I could take the car over there as he had a lift with a shaker plate and low and behold up came the knock loud and clear with nothing at all showing as faulty when being checked by dealers. I fitted hefty uprated drop links and have never had another problem. My problems have always and still all stem from where I live, they are terrified of the 300c ! I have just been told by the spares shop they will not order the ECT and want nothing to do with Chrysler bits!!! Gave them the Merc part number ( I think is correct) and they still refused to order it for me?? WTF ! Now at a loss as can't get one locally and can't travel. Did you have a part number for the ECT only there seem to be many many variants on the EU parts suppliers. Any and all help would be most welcome as one garage only wants to replace the injectors and glow plugs and says the ECT is not going to be the problem. I've had this nonsense ever since I took delivery and at a later stage the Merc dealer ceased selling Chryslers.

Thanks for the info my man. I've had my 300 from new, some 14+ years now and know what the dealers are like, price wise, from bitter experience. I've been lucky, in general, with parts but have had a couple of issues, oil pipe over the ECM leaking and destroying it, mega money for the dealer to replace the box and pipe but replaced the standard pipe as soon as it was out of the dealers with a reinforced unit, once bitten twice shy. Always connect a slave unit whilst replacing the battery and so have had no issues. That annoying front end knock took me ages to track down but once I replaced the drop links with heavy duty/good quality ones no issues since. Over the years I've had no option but to do the work myself as nobody I would trust is prepared to undertake repairs! Seem to be scared because it's 'American' but let's face it, most of the engine kit is straight off of a Mercedes E Class so what's the issue? I have, over the years, replaced most of the front end suspension and steering parts/bushes and spent a bit of time drilling and fitting grease nipples to almost every part and that is proving to be well worth the effort but that bloody e brake is a nightmare at MOT times no matter how you adjust it or even if you replace the cables and fittings.Testers just will not accept that its a parking brake and not a hand brake and needs to be applied slowly and not by stamping on it to get a reading. Awaiting the sensor as I type but will test the original just to see if it is that! I hope so because I'd hate for it to be one or more of the injectors Once again thanks for the suggestion and the help. Be lucky..

Hi BrownSugar Anything I need to know about fitting the ECT? No need to disconnect any battery terminals or drain anything? Is it just a straight unbolt bolt up swap?

Update - 17 Feb 2021 - Gave the relay from the US and ECT sensor a swerve. US dealer wanted $38+tax for the first and $58+tax for the second. The ECT has been ordered here, via EU, for just £4.75 + pp the relay was donated by a former Jeep dealer for nowt. Thank you sir, you are a true gent.

Good shout Brown Sugar, wish I'd thought of it when my starting troubles began. Now have one on order, just in case, you can never be underprepared.

Sorry jonnyjeep You are right, re read the post and they clearly say its turning over so not the same issue at all. That'll teach me to read a little more carefully instead of just scanning text.

Interesting, of course I can only speak for my own experience here but as I understood it the relay controls both the signal that is sent to the starter and to the immobiliser and thus would dictate whether the signal is read correctly to allow starting ! As an intermittent fault and based on that idea I swapped out the starter relay for one of the others, in my case the horn, and the issue went away, car started each and every time, but as soon as I returned the original relay, back came the starting problem as described by Lord300 I just thought that rather than Lord300 keep buying expensive parts and spending large amounts of time and effort removing fitting them just give it a try and if it fixes it then fantastic if not its back to the drawing board? My problems began last summer and I wasted money on a new battery before I looked at the connections on the starter (earth) in case it was iffy, I knew it wasn't an alternator issue and as it worked 90% of the time with no problems I didn't think it was fuel or such like. I looked at the battery in the keys, they were fine so it seemed to me it just wasn't communicating with the car. What you get when you insert the key is everything lights up and you have full power so the auto headlights, radio, memory seats, mirrors etcetera all work perfectly but the car has nothing other than the solenoid click, turn the key off and back on again and most times it fires up and away you go ! Over time the issue gets worse and eventually the car just won't start. I'm awaiting some new relay units from the States, not going to get it through the MOT with no horn, but who knows when I'll get them, had never considered cracking them open and re soldering but it is worth a go, hell anything is, and if it's your second car or you can afford to have it off the road ! Lets face it, we all love these motors for the way they look and the interior size but they don't have the best build quality in the world. I may well give the solder idea a go and thanks for suggesting it.

I hate to say this, after you have replaced so many parts, but you will probably find that it is the 'starter relay' in the fuse box under the bonnet and this is a known fault with all variants of the 300, though nobody knows why it goes. If you swap the relay for the horn or wiper relay, which one don't you need most, and the issue resolves itself then that was the problem if not join the club of those who are suffering the same problem. Next issue is where to get a replacement relay? I have been unable to locate any new ones anywhere other than the USA and they won't ship outside the US! I've also tried Vauxhall dealers, Saab suppliers, even Holden in Aussie with no luck at all. Part number is - 05269988AA Hope that info helps and if you find the part please let me know as none of the UK 300 sites seem to have them new or know what I'm talking about, which is mad, though you can get used ones from China via e-Bay but who knows if they work? Delivery time is also horrendous. Cheers As an important edit - Please make sure you swap the right relay as one of them operates the computer and all that entails. If you get it wrong it brings with it a whole host of issues you don't want to get involved with. Depending on the layout of the box under the bonnet and year it is the relay that is separate from all the rest with just two fuses next to it. It can be bridged with a paper clip or similar but not an option I would recommend.

Well I'm now about to replace the NSF lower ball joint as I've found that one leaking grease from the boot. Decided to replace both, left & right lower, at the same time and I'm hoping that will be the last of the clunk! There truly wont be a front end part that has not been replaced after this so if its still there when I'm done I've decided to give up and the car will be treated to a Viking funeral!

Ok all of my time, energy and money was wasted on looking at the top when it was in fact the bottom I needed to be looking at! The front end 'clunk' has proven to be the lower ball joint on the front near side which has only shown up as the weather got warmer and or the rubber boot has degraded and grease began to appear on nearby parts! Replacement parts now ordered and I will be sorting it next week when the required press is in my hot little hands but may try a Mercedes kit in the meantime, as lets face it, what we have is an E-class system or as close to it as makes no difference? Wish me luck, I'm going in...

Well the good news is its looking more and more like an issue with the shock design! More specifically the thread/nut on the top of the shock. It appears there is a shortfall of thread! A design fault by the manufacturer perhaps, leaving a small gap between the strut mount and the shock shaft which no amount of tightening of the nut itself resolves as the inner shaft just spins, what you end up with is a very small amount of movement between the inner shaft thread and the strut mount resulting in the rather loud 'clunk'. As I type I'm in the process of trying to fit a washer of the correct thickness onto the shock to take up the slack therefore allowing the nut to be fully tightened and remove said gap! Not as easy as I thought it would be because I'm unable to stop the shaft from turning! May need to fabricate some kind of tool to hold the10mm hex, thus stopping the shaft turning within the shock cover, whilst also tightening the nut. I hate these cars with a passion.

Hi Wonder if you can tell me how the front windscreen parts come off! Do they just lift? Not feeling brave enough to just start tugging away at them and blacking them every week is driving me nuts! I did the door pillars and rear doors with some stainless steel and 3M tape which has worked just fine but terrified of pulling bits off of this car as they do tend to break, a lot..Any and all help most welcome. Cheers.

Both mounts have been done so all new thread and I've replaced with Nylock nuts. I'm gonna have a look at the mounting bracket on the shocks tomorrow, the one half way down the shaft, as the weld is known to brake and that can be an issue because its difficult to spot as it only grates/bangs under load! To be honest I'm still leaning towards the wrong grease having been inserted at the point of manufacture on the tie rod ends as the bang is at its worse when the temperature is low and the grease is thick! The noise definitely lessens when the parts and or the outside temp warms up! Anyway the hunt continues and has been made even more difficult due to all the new parts being fitted. Until then the 300c 3.5 sits in the garage and the Hemi is getting lots and lots of outings! lets hope that don't start clunking

Front end clunk returned Jan 2018. So it was definitely not faulty - Tie Rod Ends - Anti Roll Bar Links - Anti Roll Bar Bushes (tried both rubber & poly) - Front Lower Control Arms - Rear Forward Lower Control Arms - Upper Wishbone (left & right) Rotors (left & right) Upper Tension Struts (left & right) - Shocks (left & right) or engine/gearbox mounts? I think that covers everything, not that there is much if anything left. Anybody got any ideas? I'm more than open to any mechanical suggestions!

Got a feeling this Q is long since dead!