cyborx

Have you got the amp in the back I had a speaker go on me and found out that I had the speakers with the built-in amps on the top of the speakers and not the amp in the back got one off eBay job done hope this might help .

my only concern is that it is both door speakers and they both stopped at the same time, gonna get the door panels off this week and wire direct.

hit'n'run    

heyup!! on my 2003 voyager the door speakers have both stopped working, driving along today with some sweet tunes percolating thru the car and out of the blue i lost all sound from the front except for the dash speakers.

twiddling the F/R fader will deliver an exceptable sound but not true quad sound, is this a known problem?

i have checked for breaks in the wiring but as they are not wired in tandem i cant see that being the reason.

what am i missing (other than quality sound

Hi all,

 

This is one of the jobs I've got this summer, so I'm open to suggestions on best cure/solution. My current thinking is plastic/masking tape around affected area, gently sand to cleanup and remove debris, use that rust-converter stuff (HAMMERITE KURUST 90ML - Rust Treatment /Killer) to convert/revert it to something solid, give it an undercoat/protector (CarPlan Tetroseal Underbody Underseal Sealant?) and then paint over the top (rattle cans?)

 

Anyone any comments on the above plan, or can tell me I'm talking rubbish and tell me the best solution!

 

 

 

i would cut away the rust and weld plates on, that there is an MOT fail waiting to happen (suspension mounting points are very close). i know that for a fact as i have just (last week) done mine for that very reason.

well, heres a little tale with a BIG question attached

having recently tackled the (non)handbrick on my 2003 Mk4 CV driven by an MOT fail i managed somehow to dink a small hole in the rear O/S brake pipe

after throwing the tools in the boot in disgust and spending the night browsing the web to find a replacement i go out in the morning to find my drive awash with fluid,, oooh bugger! i thinks.

later that day said part arrives (£48 from eurocarparts) and gets banged onto the car, fills the now empty reservoir with Dot4 and i huddle down with bleeding gear to do the deed, mrs on the pedal and  pump.

'Squirt' oh god! i forgot to replace the crush washers on the banjo joint, too late to run around to the local car spares shed so yet another wait, next day i am greeted with another fluid lake washing the drive (thank god its slabbed) so on the phone i go but no avail as the washers are not readily available locally so another trip on computer and Amazon comes up trumps (prime next day too).

so! new crush washers in and all tightened down, res refilled and all prepped for bleeding.

mrs starts engine, pumps pedal, i crack nipple aaaannd nothing, expecting the bleed jar to erupt like a Jacuzzi i am just about to sent tools into orbit and i realize what my brain had not at first registered, fluid level had risen slightly so i have another go and sure enough it does.

now heres the question, knowing that there is at least 750 ml of fluid (the amount replaced in total) on the drive and NOT ONE BUBBLE of air in the bleed jar, is it possible  for these brakes to self bleed by gravity?

i have road tested the brakes with a 10 mile run and they are the best that i have ever had, no sponginess, no fade off and no pulling either side.

im worried that they are going to bite me in the backside at the retest tomorrow ? ??

hi gordy 

thanks for the reply 

if i didnt let fluid drain through naturally (ie connected up to new caliper released hose clamp) there would have been 10x the amount of air in system 

the system was been bled with proper airline bleed kit 

there were a few(quite a lot of air bubbles)that pushed out until entire system was running through with new clean dot4 

there was no air left in that system !!

but your advice about bleeding while running seems logical 

i will give that a go and post again with update 

hi Scruf! going thru the same problems as you have hi lited in your OP, did you sort it and how did you get the right result? i would be grateful for any info you were willing to share,,, Jon

hi peeps!!

chrysler voyager 2.5 csl 2003 mk4

has anyone on here changed an air con compressor themselves and has any advice to share?

i think that mine has destroyed itself and i am looking at changing it myself to lower the cost of the job.

i recon i am pretty competent as a mechanic (no formal training tho) and have the requisit 2 spanners and a hammer so really just wondering how hard can it be and do i need any specialist gear (screwdrivers)

any advice would be welcome.

Jon

Hi Jon what's probably happened is your aircon compressor has seized (common fault ) for some reason the aircon often switches itself on by itself in cold weather refrigerant can remain liquid and enter the compressor as you can't compress a liquid the compressor "hydraulics " and destroys itself inside new one is damm expensive and system needs cleaning out well

You can do without the aircon till April so just get the car running .

First thing to try is disconnect the plug close to the compressor it's a bit fiddly to get at so another way is takeout the mini relay in the power distribution box next the battery Now start the engine look down at the compressor pulley you should see the pulley turning and the centre hub should sit still If it shows any sign of trying to move or starts to get hot the clutch and pulley are seizing

In this case you could try this loosen the bolt on the centre of the compressor hub prise off the end cap now you can see if the clutch is seized Also check this , release the drive belt ( since you saw it smoking inspect it is not damaged ) check the compressor hub is not wobbly you should be able to spin the pulley part nice and free Good luck

wow nigel, a nice concise and informative answer there, exactly what i was looking for and i will be all over it like a rash on a teenagers face in the morning

just a couple of things tho,

1) when you say 'loosen' the centre hub bolt, is that just loosen and not remove to facilitate prising off the end cap?

2) is the mini relay identifiable as the air con relay at all?

thanks very much for your help so far

Jon.

hi, i have a voyager 2.5 crd 2003 and last week i had a strange grindy rattle on start up, quick inspection revealed that it was coming from the pulley area but couldnt pin it down.

today while on a short drive i had smoke coming from the bonnet and a burned rubber smell in the cab via the heater vents, i cracked the bonnet and saw that the belt was smoking on the AC pulley.

cutting the journey short i returned home and now i fear the consequences of trying to run it with out an expensive garage job.

any one willing to put my mind at rest with a possible diagnostic (clutch or full compressor and the extra's) and or are there any work arounds as i have never used the aircon and would gladly remove if possible.

Jon.

just a quick intro,

for the past 5 years i have been the proud owner of a Chrysler Voyager 2.5 crd 2003 that has carried my wife and i and four kids plus camping gear faithfully all over without missing a beat.

TILL NOW Jon