dave62pb

A bit late with reply as been very busy, Not sure If pump timing is critical as its just high pressure pump , but when I did my belt and water pump I had a few attempts to get the pump marks to line up , in the end I clamped the belt to cam pulleys with wooden clothes pegs removed the idler near pump so I could turn pump a tooth 
just past marker , and put idler back on, then when I set belt tension all lined up
 
When I first stripped it all down I checked markings and pump was 1 tooth out but car ran fine 
I too struggled with water pump bolts but found it best to put the bolt in pipe bracket and pump first , line up and screw in part way before other 4 bolts 
TBH the whole job was a pig so many bolts difficult to get to 

A bit late with reply as been very busy, Not sure If pump timing is critical as its just high pressure pump , but when I did my belt and water pump I had a few attempts to get the pump marks to line up , in the end I clamped the belt to cam pulleys with wooden clothes pegs removed the idler near pump so I could turn pump a tooth 
just past marker , and put idler back on, then when I set belt tension all lined up
 
When I first stripped it all down I checked markings and pump was 1 tooth out but car ran fine 
I too struggled with water pump bolts but found it best to put the bolt in pipe bracket and pump first , line up and screw in part way before other 4 bolts 
TBH the whole job was a pig so many bolts difficult to get to 

The electrics on these cars are so odd, now its mot`d and driving it the mirror adjustment and folding function are now working fine , the only thing to start working again is the tail gate

Thanks , done what you said , found the joint had come apart , washer working now , a 10 min job that I have not got around to for a few years now

Finally got the job done, the lip on top of the new liner measured the same as the old one but the shoulder that sits in the block was thinner, I got various thickness shims in the kit so just measured the old liner and shim and set the new to the same, when I set it into the block it was flush  
I had the cylinder head resurfaced / ground the valves in / new stem seals/ and had to replace 1 x hydraulic lifter / piston rings / connecting rod bolts  , putting it all back together was straight forward I played on the side of caution with having the head resurfaced and used a 2 hole cylinder head gasket as the valves are proud of the head .
I have replaced water pump and all pulleys with the new cam belt,   with the crank and cams locked with pins I lined up the pump marks then clamped the belt to pump and cam gears with wooden clothes pegs to stop belt moving while I set the belt tension
When I finally got all the plumbing back together and with a fully charged battery as soon as I got diesel up to the injectors it fired right up , I have had it running for about 1 hour coolant level stays fine temp gauge goes to just under half heater works better than it ever has , at the exhaust it runs very clean now

I did wonder myself with the pump timing, as you say its just a high pressure pump being common rail system
I finally have the head stripped off now and what I found was on number 4 cylinder the liner had a crack about 30 mm long next to the water jacket, its was pitted and I could see where coolant had seeped through
The gasket had a dark stain in one place and also on the head , all the others had a clean unbroken ring mark on the head , checked the head with a straight edge and there are no signs of warping but I am going to have skimmed to be on safe side while its off plus grind in the valves and fit new stem seals
Removed the sump to gain access to no4 con rod to find these engines have balance shafts that are timed to the crank , just more to take off
According to VM information the liners can only be removed when engine is out and disassembled with crank removed , I made a puller/plate that just fit between the bottom of the liner and the crank and a bridge that cleared the top lip of the liner , with a long M20 bolt through the bridge and screwed into the lower plate I tightened the bolt and the liner came out with not too much effort
New liners are about £80 inc vat then a set of rings , just got to measure old liner with shims and make sure new one is set the same
TBC

Doing this job as and when I can get to it now as its such a pain, bought a cheap car for the wife to use to take the pressure off
The securing lug on the turbo pipe broke off but the pipe is ok so will cable tie it back when re fit , got the timing belt off now
it has been replaced at sometime but not done using the locking pegs as I found white marks on the cam wheels that line up with marks on the casing and on the fuel pump mark lined up but the pegs would not go in
I turned the engine over on the crank twice until I could get the pegs in but when I removed the starter motor to find the crank locking hole it is a tooth out as was the pump timing ,  there is a white mark painted on the flywheel just after the first hole , line that to the hole and the pump lines up so looks like its been running a tooth out
Put the peg in the flywheel hole and the cam pegs are slightly out,  on replacement I will put back to factory settings
I have ordered a Taxi TX4 workshop manual for all torque settings  as they use the VM engine

No not had the head off yet just trying to nurse on for a bit , I drained the system again yesterday and put the coolant into a clear container after a while it settled and you can see the sealer separate and sink , looks like one of them old lather lamps, 
I flushed the system again by taking of the hose on the aux heater putting hose pipe into the header tank with the engine running until just clean water was flowing 
I have also taken out the inline stat for now until I do the head gasket 

Hopefully found the fault, looks like its the header tank cap,
I have the overflow into a small bottle with a little coolant in , as soon as the slightest pressure starts to build it escapes into the bottle ,  had a new 13 lbs cap so changed it for the original - no more bubbles in the bottle , took the car out for a decent drive today, heater worked fine all the time, temp stayed at 1/2, as soon as I pulled up at home I popped the bonnet, the coolant was bang on level no bubbles in the bottle
 have ordered a correct 16 lbs cap + I will flush and refill with the correct coolant 
Mine has the aux heater so I will remove the pipe under the car to drain just to make sure I get all the old coolant out
Thanks
Dave

Hopefully found the fault, looks like its the header tank cap,
I have the overflow into a small bottle with a little coolant in , as soon as the slightest pressure starts to build it escapes into the bottle ,  had a new 13 lbs cap so changed it for the original - no more bubbles in the bottle , took the car out for a decent drive today, heater worked fine all the time, temp stayed at 1/2, as soon as I pulled up at home I popped the bonnet, the coolant was bang on level no bubbles in the bottle
 have ordered a correct 16 lbs cap + I will flush and refill with the correct coolant 
Mine has the aux heater so I will remove the pipe under the car to drain just to make sure I get all the old coolant out
Thanks
Dave

The faint beeping was coming from the instrument cluster, Somehow there was a fault in the system caused by the flat battery and the instalment of new battery , 
I put the key in the drivers door and held it until the beeping stopped then went to the passenger side put the key in the lock and held it in the lock position for about a minuet 
I then unlocked the car with the remote opened the door got in and started it ,  the beeping had stopped , I turned on the lights and opened the door the faint beeping started again,
I turned off the lights - disconnected the battery for a short while then re-connected , the system reset itself,  now got all the right warning sounds and faint beeping has gone
All I have to do now is sort the dvd player as it is still flashng