dave62pb

Quite easy and straight forward if just doing the belt, as maxcaddy said at 50k your water pump should be ok but check your pulleys if the sound dry when you spin them - replace I have just done major engine overhaul on mine at 130k and all the pulleys where dry (just caught in time ) Take off air filter /support engine / take off engine mounting / service belts / crank pulley /undo tin timing cover , if you have the car on ramps you can drop it out from the bottom The locking pin kit for cams is cheap on ebay , take off the starter motor there is a small yellow bung behind it where you put a locking pin in I used a short 1/4 drive socket extension Turn the engine with a 21mm socket and bar until the hole in flywheel lines up , take out the small plugs on valve cover and screw in cam locking pins , when I put the new belt on I held to pump sprocket and timing gears the wood clothes pegs to stop it moving whilst setting tension I managed to get the pump marks to align after a couple of attempts of it moving , had to take tension off the belt remove idler pulley by the pump, turn pump gear a tooth the put it all back Don't think the pump timing is critical as its just a high pressure pump, the marking was out on mine before I removed the old belt I just put it all as it was intended Hope this helps Cheers Dave

Yes it was worth all the effort, I have had my GV stow n go a few years now and would be lost without it , wanted one ever since we rented a Dodge grand caravan stow n go in the states whilst touring on holiday It took us a while to find the right one. IE spec and colour so with as it stood without MOT and engine issues it would not be worth much and to find another we would have to pay good money for the right one so don't mind putting this one right

Finally got the job done, the lip on top of the new liner measured the same as the old one but the shoulder that sits in the block was thinner, I got various thickness shims in the kit so just measured the old liner and shim and set the new to the same, when I set it into the block it was flush I had the cylinder head resurfaced / ground the valves in / new stem seals/ and had to replace 1 x hydraulic lifter / piston rings / connecting rod bolts , putting it all back together was straight forward I played on the side of caution with having the head resurfaced and used a 2 hole cylinder head gasket as the valves are proud of the head . I have replaced water pump and all pulleys with the new cam belt, with the crank and cams locked with pins I lined up the pump marks then clamped the belt to pump and cam gears with wooden clothes pegs to stop belt moving while I set the belt tension When I finally got all the plumbing back together and with a fully charged battery as soon as I got diesel up to the injectors it fired right up , I have had it running for about 1 hour coolant level stays fine temp gauge goes to just under half heater works better than it ever has , at the exhaust it runs very clean now

I was already into the costs of the cam belt kit and top end gasket set anyway so might as well carry on at least I know what I have a lot of work to change a used engine if you don't know its history , the liners are shimmed to achieve correct height to the block surface (they cannot be skimmed as they have a lip on top that sits in the gasket ) I have ordered the new liner/ shim kit / and rings from VM engine parts in Chesterfield , very helpful and reasonable prices I really like what we have GV stow n go if I got rid of it we would want the same again, it took us a while to find the one we have ie colour/spec so don't mind spending on engine overhaul Keep you updated

I did wonder myself with the pump timing, as you say its just a high pressure pump being common rail system I finally have the head stripped off now and what I found was on number 4 cylinder the liner had a crack about 30 mm long next to the water jacket, its was pitted and I could see where coolant had seeped through The gasket had a dark stain in one place and also on the head , all the others had a clean unbroken ring mark on the head , checked the head with a straight edge and there are no signs of warping but I am going to have skimmed to be on safe side while its off plus grind in the valves and fit new stem seals Removed the sump to gain access to no4 con rod to find these engines have balance shafts that are timed to the crank , just more to take off According to VM information the liners can only be removed when engine is out and disassembled with crank removed , I made a puller/plate that just fit between the bottom of the liner and the crank and a bridge that cleared the top lip of the liner , with a long M20 bolt through the bridge and screwed into the lower plate I tightened the bolt and the liner came out with not too much effort New liners are about £80 inc vat then a set of rings , just got to measure old liner with shims and make sure new one is set the same TBC

Doing this job as and when I can get to it now as its such a pain, bought a cheap car for the wife to use to take the pressure off The securing lug on the turbo pipe broke off but the pipe is ok so will cable tie it back when re fit , got the timing belt off now it has been replaced at sometime but not done using the locking pegs as I found white marks on the cam wheels that line up with marks on the casing and on the fuel pump mark lined up but the pegs would not go in I turned the engine over on the crank twice until I could get the pegs in but when I removed the starter motor to find the crank locking hole it is a tooth out as was the pump timing , there is a white mark painted on the flywheel just after the first hole , line that to the hole and the pump lines up so looks like its been running a tooth out Put the peg in the flywheel hole and the cam pegs are slightly out, on replacement I will put back to factory settings I have ordered a Taxi TX4 workshop manual for all torque settings as they use the VM engine

The head gasket has finally given up so decided to do it , I have made a start but now I am stuck , I cannot work out how to remove the rubber intake pipe to the turbo , looks like its bolted under the thermostat housing but I cant see or get to the bolt TBH I have been fighting with all the pipework at the rear of the engine my patience is running out , was hoping to unbolt the exhaust manifold and tie it back while I remove the head but not sure if that is possible Any advise welcome Thanks Dave

Now this is totally strange, I had to do a 30 mile round trip today so with just water in the system and no inline stat it took a long time to warm as expected but eventually crept to between 1/4 and 1/2 in traffic then back down to 1/4 when cruising When I got home i checked the level , I have not lost any water, the system had virtually no pressure and no sign of any bubbles in the header tank I will run for a week drain /flush then refill with coolant

Could it be worth making a clamp out of 2 thick steel plates , one to sit on the strut top and the other sitting under the lower spring cup, drill them and use 3 lengths of 10 or 12 mm threaded bar They can be eased off in sequence

No not had the head off yet just trying to nurse on for a bit , I drained the system again yesterday and put the coolant into a clear container after a while it settled and you can see the sealer separate and sink , looks like one of them old lather lamps, I flushed the system again by taking of the hose on the aux heater putting hose pipe into the header tank with the engine running until just clean water was flowing I have also taken out the inline stat for now until I do the head gasket

Well the Steal Seal has made no difference in fact it made matters worse , as it blocked the vent hole i drilled in the inline thermostat The problem I have is the pressure , the temp will sit at 1/2 until it dumps the coolant then the temp will rise We have had the GV for about 4 years and its got about 131000 on clock , the other odd thing is expansion tank cap lets the slightest pressure past , I replaced it with a new cap and now this does the same I put the overflow pipe into a drinks bottle and you can see it bubbling before any pressure has built up, I put on a standard rad cap (old British type ) and the bubbling stops

Thanks for that thought it would be more involved gives me something to work on, will keep you informed on Steel Seal performance BTW, is it best to replace cylinder head bolts at the same time Thanks

Hi Jeff, thanks, yes I found details on jeep engine but its more info on dong the job on the voyager like what to remove to make the job easier, cant find anything on the net or a workshop manual on the 2.8 voyager only the 3.3 V6 I am thinking on getting a spare cylinder head having it skimmed do the valves etc then its just a case of swapping it , a bit more expense but it will save a lot of time off the road I was wondering if that liquid steel seal will help temporary , I need a bit of time until I get my workshop built, don't fancy doing the job outside on the drive and not going to pay garage rates for a job I can do myself

I am pretty sure now the head gasket is leaking, need info,, I have plenty of experience on other cars / engines , just not done a Voyager Any advise welcome Thanks Dave

The problem is back again, blowing coolant out of the tank, and the heater not working as it should, got to have it on high but its not as hot as it should be Today I put it on ramps and took the pipes off the aux heater , the coolant was pretty clean , I flushed the system with hosepipe and put in a bottle of Wynns rad flush Filled to level then run the engine , the temp goes to half but it soon pressurizes then dumps a bit of coolant out, the heater is intermittent , I managed to reach the top heater hose squeeze the clip to slacken it off with engine running, coolant squirted out so indicates it is circulating I am getting concerned that it could be the head gasket as it pressurizes within about 30 seconds from starting although there are no bubbles on the tank when running and it does not boil , Last week I did a 60 mile run most of it motorway at 70-80 MPH with no problems I am a bit stumped now , wondering if the heater matrix is blocked or control valve not opening fully , will take for long drive again then drain rad flush , would like to get it sorted before putting in the HOAT coolant as it too expensive to waste

With Voyager autos, t recomends to tow in 3rd , i tow a caravan and at first had the same problem, what I do is run in 3rd when on A & B roads and up hills then when cruising or on long flats shift into D, make sure you have the correct coolant and rad is clear, I did have to change mine as it blocked and sprung a leak

Hopefully found the fault, looks like its the header tank cap, I have the overflow into a small bottle with a little coolant in , as soon as the slightest pressure starts to build it escapes into the bottle , had a new 13 lbs cap so changed it for the original - no more bubbles in the bottle , took the car out for a decent drive today, heater worked fine all the time, temp stayed at 1/2, as soon as I pulled up at home I popped the bonnet, the coolant was bang on level no bubbles in the bottle have ordered a correct 16 lbs cap + I will flush and refill with the correct coolant Mine has the aux heater so I will remove the pipe under the car to drain just to make sure I get all the old coolant out Thanks Dave

Having similar problems since installing inline thermostat, loose a bit of coolant the heater stops working, last night the wife left home after about 6 miles the heater blew cold and the temp went up (warning light on ) , She pulled in and let it cool down, I went out topped up the coolant about 1 ltr , put the heater on hi , run the engine temp 1/2 way no bubbles in the header tank so sure its not the head gasket Drove about 3 miles to service station the heater was working but when we pulled in the temp was about 3/4 , popped the bonnet and could see a fresh puddle of coolant on top of the gearbox The fans kicked in temp went down to 1/2 again , let it cool down put in coolant to correct level , i found a small drinks bottle at the services so put the overflow pipe into it , the wife drove home temp stayed at 1/2 - heater worked - coolant in the header tank was about 3/4 in the tank as it was hot but the drinks bottle had about 1 inch of coolant in and was bubbling due to released pressure I went out to check once all had settled and cooled down, the coolant was at the correct cold fill level, The car had a new rad last year when i drained the system was a bit brown / rusty sludge and i have had a bit of brown scum come into the header tank , think i will drain the system , refill with a flush solution , drain again, refill with coolant and fit a new cap to the header tank

I have the same problem, mine stopped working after the battery went flat, when I put on the new battery the lights flashed 3 left and 3 right I tried stripping it down but after removing the 5 tiny screws on the top it would not lift off completely , when I tried to put the top back down the small plastic gear had come out of mesh with the rack , also there was a small spring that sits in the gears on the other side had come out of its location, I think it sits in the cam below as that has a slot in it for the arm of the spring to sit in All I can do is put it back and hope for the best, don't know why it messed up because of the battery, or is there a weird way of resetting them also Thanks Dave

The faint beeping was coming from the instrument cluster, Somehow there was a fault in the system caused by the flat battery and the instalment of new battery , I put the key in the drivers door and held it until the beeping stopped then went to the passenger side put the key in the lock and held it in the lock position for about a minuet I then unlocked the car with the remote opened the door got in and started it , the beeping had stopped , I turned on the lights and opened the door the faint beeping started again, I turned off the lights - disconnected the battery for a short while then re-connected , the system reset itself, now got all the right warning sounds and faint beeping has gone All I have to do now is sort the dvd player as it is still flashng

2005 GV 2.8crd, after changing the battery again, now there is a beeping from the steering column and the CD changer lights are flashing like night rider , also now the warning sounder for the lights left on is not working All was fine upto the battery change, any advice welcome Thanks Dave

The law now states the light must show when ignition on and go out when running , Mad because the car runs fine and passed on emission test the fault could be anything Will keep posted

Advise needed my GV has just failed MOT on engine light lit, doing the key dance it shows P 2120 throttle position sensor The car runs fine with no cutting out or flat spots, anyway i replaced the pedal assembly with a tested used one as i could not find a new one it is still the same with the light on, I spoke to somebody who had the same problem theirs was the MAP sensor so i replaced that with a new unit the light is still on , where do i go from here ? Regards Dave

Managed to get P code this eve by key dance 1st one P 0168.5 nearest i could find was P 0168 (fuel temp too high ,cause wiring fuel temp sensor mechanical fault ) this is the fault I read about the fuel heater and wiring cause problem and heat cracks fuel filter housing 2nd code was P212 injector circuet malfunction , cause wiring injector ecm cylinder no 12 ???

Hi Gordy Thanks for the reply I tried the key dance as the youtube link but nothing shows also no P codes found on code reader, going to take a close look at fuel filter and housing at the W/E as read on net that housing can crack and wiring on plug can break down, keep you posted Dave