Jump to content

mikebh8

Members
  • Posts

    592
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    26

Posts posted by mikebh8

  1. Hi, coming from a long absence.

    I don't know if I was the only one posting the link to the chrysler's manual but when I did, I downloaded a copy of what I needed.

    I've uploaded more links to the pdf files, the manual is for 2004 model but I suppose they are the same. Let me know if the links are ok, it does not require any password or login details.

     

    P.S. I now own a 2003 2.8 voyager, 2004 2.5 grand voyager both manual, a 2007 stow&go 2.7 auto and I am thinking for the future to get the new one also...

     

     
     
     
     
     
     
     
  2. Hi there,

    Try bleeding the clutch fluid, could have air in it.

    Assuming otherwise it works fine and not slipping etc as Mike says.

     

    My van is the opposite, pressure builds up, and it must have some sort of non return valve built into the system to do this, so the biting point is high.

    After a bleed through the bite is much lower !?

    On this it shares the fluid reservoir with the brakes.

    Are you sure the brakra and clutch share the fluid, on mine is a closed circuit on its own?!

  3. Hi, I took one from a chrysler that I scraped, just for having an extra point omy roof. It was different than mines, but it fit inside the slide.

    The only thing I noticed the front is one way only because of the way is narrower on one side for the wind, for a while I didn't know whyvthey were making noise.

     

    Hope it helps.

  4. Hi, have you checked the wires to the CKP.

    Download Autocodes app and you will get details of the fault.

    On my autodata to test it says with plug disconnected, you should have 886ohms at component.

    Another test that I do is:

    Removing the glow plugs, ignition on, turn the engine by the crankshaft with meter probes connected in parallel to the sensor, you should get an intermittent reading ohms and/or voltage( I'm not sure what the measurements are) but it shod fluctuate.

     

    Hope it helps.

    post-1346-0-22080300-1522057827_thumb.png

  5. Mine seems 28" or there abouts, roads around here bad and it bottoms out quite a bit which is cracking me up. Will probably pass an mot ok ,but are these cars really that soft or do i need brand new springs or is there a way to stiffen the front end?

    Many years ago, I was some rubber spacers that will fit between the spring's coils...I'm thinking getting it for mine. It will lift the car 5-10 cm.

  6. I turned the adjuster two clicks at the time, every two clicks I tried the disc, when it wasn't going in I undone until it went in nearly scratching the shoes. There is a hole, mine is covered (on both sides), but everything in there was so rusted I doubt it would have spin just with a screwdriver, it did however with a set of players.

     

    Saying that, this is what I call emergency braking assisted, I find it injenious being a totally separated braking system than the one operated by the foot brake.

  7. Hi all, today I've done my rear brakes and discs.

    I found the adjustment for the hand brake cable.

    If anyone still having problems with their hand brake not holding, look at the picture attached.

    I have to say, this is for the rear pads and shoes.

    By removing the wheel and the brake disc you can access to the shoes, at the bottom is the adjuster. Try first few clicks (by twisting it it will make a click over the spring).

     

    Hope it helps.

    post-1346-0-74202800-1521548417_thumb.png

  8. The only cheap way is DIY, but still requires an investment on tools and software which will help for the future.

    For 3 sensors, second hand could be £30-45 and the handbrake could mean that the rear pads are worn or just needs adjusting.

     

    Hope it helps. 

×
×
  • Create New...