mikebh8
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Posts posted by mikebh8
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Hi, coming from a long absence.
I don't know if I was the only one posting the link to the chrysler's manual but when I did, I downloaded a copy of what I needed.
I've uploaded more links to the pdf files, the manual is for 2004 model but I suppose they are the same. Let me know if the links are ok, it does not require any password or login details.
P.S. I now own a 2003 2.8 voyager, 2004 2.5 grand voyager both manual, a 2007 stow&go 2.7 auto and I am thinking for the future to get the new one also...
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Hi there,
Try bleeding the clutch fluid, could have air in it.
Assuming otherwise it works fine and not slipping etc as Mike says.
My van is the opposite, pressure builds up, and it must have some sort of non return valve built into the system to do this, so the biting point is high.
After a bleed through the bite is much lower !?
On this it shares the fluid reservoir with the brakes.
Are you sure the brakra and clutch share the fluid, on mine is a closed circuit on its own?!
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I had it on a different car, try removing the belt and check for the tensioner if it is loose, in that case the third is gone on the timing cover where the bolts goes in. Try with some thread blocker.
Hope it helps.
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Is it only on first, when changing second or onwards doe it work if you push it half way down, when overtaking, is it revving like it would be on neutral.
Hydraulic either works or not there is no in between, could be the bearing.
Hope it helps.
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Some will do some not, I found on a Mazda 6 that did not came with.
It help preventing for building up dirt moisture at the injector's end.
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The ones that are in the middle right after the cooper washer from the bottom way up, I don't have a third one.
What do you mean by "leak off pipe", the return pipe? I didn't replace those ones.
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I bought a plumbing box with all sizes and they fit, the rubber washers are there just to protect dirt water and other bits going to the injector's head. I have them fitted for other a year now and is no problem.
Hope it helps.
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Hi, I took one from a chrysler that I scraped, just for having an extra point omy roof. It was different than mines, but it fit inside the slide.
The only thing I noticed the front is one way only because of the way is narrower on one side for the wind, for a while I didn't know whyvthey were making noise.
Hope it helps.
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Hi, have you checked the wires to the CKP.
Download Autocodes app and you will get details of the fault.
On my autodata to test it says with plug disconnected, you should have 886ohms at component.
Another test that I do is:
Removing the glow plugs, ignition on, turn the engine by the crankshaft with meter probes connected in parallel to the sensor, you should get an intermittent reading ohms and/or voltage( I'm not sure what the measurements are) but it shod fluctuate.
Hope it helps.
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Hi, I had them fitted on mine, I sold them long time ago, the only thing I can remember is that the spacers are two thinner for the front and the other two a bit wider.
Hope it helps.
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Someone correct me if I'm wrong but doesn't the display show us gallons?
1 us gallon equals 0.83 UK gallon...to get an accurate measure switch to EU l/100km and than convert into UK gallon.
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Mine seems 28" or there abouts, roads around here bad and it bottoms out quite a bit which is cracking me up. Will probably pass an mot ok ,but are these cars really that soft or do i need brand new springs or is there a way to stiffen the front end?
Many years ago, I was some rubber spacers that will fit between the spring's coils...I'm thinking getting it for mine. It will lift the car 5-10 cm.
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I would check injectors for leak...return fuel not getting back all?!
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I was going to do that, but that section is metal for a reason, mechanical protection.
I instead used a putty leak sealant which hardened became rock solid.
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I turned the adjuster two clicks at the time, every two clicks I tried the disc, when it wasn't going in I undone until it went in nearly scratching the shoes. There is a hole, mine is covered (on both sides), but everything in there was so rusted I doubt it would have spin just with a screwdriver, it did however with a set of players.
Saying that, this is what I call emergency braking assisted, I find it injenious being a totally separated braking system than the one operated by the foot brake.
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Hi all, today I've done my rear brakes and discs.
I found the adjustment for the hand brake cable.
If anyone still having problems with their hand brake not holding, look at the picture attached.
I have to say, this is for the rear pads and shoes.
By removing the wheel and the brake disc you can access to the shoes, at the bottom is the adjuster. Try first few clicks (by twisting it it will make a click over the spring).
Hope it helps.
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Hi, I have that problem where the two shock absorber's bolts come loose and the wheel assembly tilts...in my case needs new shock absorber but in your case try pulling or pushing the wheel assembly back in line( with the bolts loosen)
Hope it helps.
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Hi, I'm not sure in your case, but it should be a relay somewhere in the engine bay that controls the glow plugs, mine is behind the battery.
Hope it helps.
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The only cheap way is DIY, but still requires an investment on tools and software which will help for the future.
For 3 sensors, second hand could be £30-45 and the handbrake could mean that the rear pads are worn or just needs adjusting.
Hope it helps.
Workshop Manual 06 2.8L Stow N Go
in Voyager 4th Generation (2001-2007)
Posted
Try this one.
http://www.fileshare.ro/e3427297372