Deano1324 Posted June 26, 2016 Report Share Posted June 26, 2016 Hi all how do you adjust the hand brake cable please ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 gordy Posted June 26, 2016 Report Share Posted June 26, 2016 It should be self adjusting. If as you say its needing adjusted I take it the handbrake is not holding. So its a case of one side is holding and other side not. Both sides have got to hold by the same amount to make the handbrake. One problem with this handbrake mechanism is, the nearside cable is almost straight via compensating junction to rear drum. Whereas the offside cable has to go from nearside compersator over to offside then down to drum. So you have different lengths of cable.But all you can do is forget what I have said, open up the drum/discs and adjust by taking up the slack in the most probably seized adjusters. If you are new to this sort of maintenance, don't pull your hair out, just ask. But mind this is a safety related job if you have no faith. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 Deano1324 Posted June 26, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 26, 2016 It works if I pull the handbrake right up so I did not know if I can adjust it so the hand brake lower ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 Deano1324 Posted June 26, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 26, 2016 Someone sed about move the handbrake up and down ten time any one done this do it work ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 QinteQ Posted June 26, 2016 Report Share Posted June 26, 2016 Bottom line on the abortion we call a handbrick. If at the end of the day for whatever reason you are not happy there is one last painful strategy and it will be a pain. Drop the car down, take it somewhere for a mile while occasionally pulling the handbrick on and immediately letting it go, do this frequently over the whole mile and you will grind the 4 imperfect leading / trailing edges to perfectly fit your 'in hat'. Then jack up and re adjust the handbrake, that will get you as near as you are going to get to 100% of the whole surface area of the shoe material applied to metal. - car in park- engine on- footbrake hard on- at least 3 or more pulls in quick succession on the handbrick whilst holding the 'pawl' in- should self adjust via the clockspring If that does not do the self adjust then you are in for the long haul, clockspring below .......................... http://www.chryslerforum.com/forum/attachments/chrysler-voyager-town-country-21/509d1402662039-my-struggles-gv-handbrake-mot-handbrake-003.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 gordy Posted June 27, 2016 Report Share Posted June 27, 2016 Oh a I think it was mentioned here quite recently, or was it other forum, give the springs a bit spray lubrication.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 Deano1324 Posted June 27, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 27, 2016 I got to change the pads so have to have a look . I did the pull handbrake up 10 time but did not work so I got to try more stuff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 QinteQ Posted June 27, 2016 Report Share Posted June 27, 2016 Oh a I think it was mentioned here quite recently, or was it other forum, give the springs a bit spray lubrication..Leedsmans de-sloughing article is very advanced from summer 2014, the initial bog standard essential MOT maintenance we all do on the drum-in-hat work needs to be done 1st and in 99% of cases is all that's required.I got to change the pads so have to have a look . I did the pull handbrake up 10 time but did not work so I got to try more stuff See above, You need to do the usual, don't be shocked to find pistons seized, linings down to rivets, and a disgusting mess. Most people don't do them at all including the garage you paid to do them. Even when they are done you should replace the 'small parts bag components' and clean all surfaces, as in bright metal and lube is the key to starting on the rear foot & parking brake conundrum, its never been cleaned in its lifetime of say 10 years. Next is the (2) after 1 September 2010 requirement for 58% service brake pass test in truth if you spend hours doing it right it will still depend on whether you want to invest heavily in the extra effort mile. - only at that point will you get to the best parking brake efficiency % you can hope to with any vehicle of this type. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 gordy Posted June 28, 2016 Report Share Posted June 28, 2016 (edited) Yeh like QinteQ says get the kit of a new set of shoe springs and pins. The worse scenario like I have is the backplates are badly rusted and the through shoe pins won't hold on. Alternative is 4mm machine screws on bigger washers coming through from the back and a lock nut at shoe end. Fiddly but does job. Oh and Leedsman uses brake cleaner on the handbrake springs. ..Back plates are running around £100+ each. Edited June 28, 2016 by gordy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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