Battery choice, like choosing a wife, provokes different opinions on what is beautiful. The issue however are simple. You should be looking for about 800CCA over 80aH, this is a physical size that will not fit the CRD battery tray, so get a big one and modify the tray, or get a smaller one and take your UK winter chances. There is a~n~other UK issue of lifestyle, its a use it or lose it condition. If like me you do 2000 miles per annum with two 15 minutes trips once a week you will regardless of battery size / cost never keep that battery charged, the BUS [over 7 or so days] at resting will use more than the 30 minutes the alternator was able to replace. Different people have success with different batteries, I'm sure the UK users will come to your aid with their suggestions, particularly the Scottish contingent who have an even colder climate than I. For myself I originally had a Banner Uni Bull 690 over 70 and my replacement was a Bosch S5 Type 96 at 800 over 80. Best of luck. Lifestyle : Two 15 minutes trips once a week. The higher the voltage applied, the faster the battery will charge, charging at too high a voltage WILL damage your battery. A simple 100Ah open lead acid battery and a 180A charger connected to the battery discharged to 50% : - @ 50% full @ 13.2V current was 35A- @ 50% full @ 14,8V current was 160A [improvement of 457%]- @ 75% full @ 13.2V current was 1A- @ 75% full @ 14.8V current was 60A [improvement of 6000%] - two 15 minute periods @ 13.2V is 2 x 15 minute @ 21Ah, compared to ;- two 15 minute periods @ 14.4V is 2 x 15 minute @ 60Ah, is an improvement of about 300% The temperature sensor under the battery will drop [ temperature compensator's on modern alternators will compensate] the voltage output from about 14.0V to about 13.2V. The problem I have with this is the engine compartment soon reaches temp and the battery assumes its fully charged. - 13.20 volts is about what you would expect from [split diode - does not apply to Voyagers, and] this vehicle with a temp sensor & alternator compensator- 14.00 volts is about what you would expect from any typical alternator without a vehicle temp sensor & alternator compensator- 14.40 volts is what you would expect from a sealed lead acid to prevent [they tend to gas @ 50ºC] excessive gassing- 14.80 volts is what you can risk pushing it to with an open lead acid to prevent damage to other equipment connected to the battery at the same time NOTE01 : I wouldn't buy one, or use one, but in the interests of even handed-ness a spiral will do the job - make sure you get the right 'posts' for your type !NOTE02 : This vendor is cheaper, considerably cheaper for the spiral.NOTE03 : There are IOD 7 functions that are 'live' when you think your car and battery are asleep, they pull a combined 0.025 ampere draw. I used a Maplins cheepo solar panel which cost me £15 at the time, and I have never been unable to start the car since. IGNITION-OFF DRAW TEST - reproduced from the workshop manual - NOTE - My Bold. The term Ignition-Off Draw (IOD) identifies a normal condition where power is being drained from the battery with the ignition switch in the Off position. A normal vehicle electrical system will draw from fifteen to twenty five milliamperes (0.015 to 0.025 ampere) with the ignition switch in the Off position, and all non-ignition controlled circuits in proper working order. Up to twenty-five milliamperes are needed to enable the memory functions for the Powertrain Control Module (PCM), digital clock, electronically tuned radio, and other modules which may vary with the vehicle equipment. A vehicle that has not been operated for approximately twenty one days, may discharge the battery to an inadequate level. When a vehicle will not be used for twenty one days or more (stored), remove the IOD fuse from the Integrated Power Module (IPM). This will reduce battery discharging. Excessive IOD can be caused by:
• Electrical items left on. • Faulty or improperly adjusted switches. • Faulty or shorted electronic modules and components. • An internally shorted generator. • Intermittent shorts in the wiring
got it done - very fiddly job. Not sure if I did it right but it worked and everyone went back together fine.
if anyone else interested;
1. remove triangle plastic cover from inside rear of window by prising it towards front of car. 2. remove the two torx screws holding the cover that fits over the inside door handle. 3. once this is prised off there is another torx screw to remove which fixes the plastic decorative door panel to the door. 4. the door panel should then prise away from a whole series of press studs that hold it in place. 5. there were two electric connectors to separate just inside the handle mounting to remove the panel completely. 6. there is then another smaller metal panel to remove. i firstly removed all the hex head bolts from around the edges using a 10 mm socket. I think there were around 12 of these. 7. at this point the door panel came away enough but I couldn't see how to get it to come completely off. there is some kind of connecting bracket to towards the rear of the panel that I could see but not access. There is another hex head bolt that goes through the door further back and I wondered if this was the final fix but wasn't confident to remove this one in case it was for something else. 8. anyway it didn't matter as with the window up and the door panel loose enough to pull slightly away and down, it is possible with a long socket extension to access the 8mm hex head bolts that hold the handle in place from the inside. 9. this part was fiddly. there are two bolts toward the front and one towards the back. there was also some tape to remove over one of the access holes. 10. There is also the pull cable to remove. this unsnaps from a slot and then the ball end of the cable can be twisted to come out of its retainer. its hard to see but you can see how it attaches by looking at new handle. i also got my son to shine a light behind the door panel but its a bit awkward to have someone else there as there is not a lot of room. if you trace this cable it will help to undo other end to give some slack to play with. at other end, there is a little black to unclip to get to cable ends and the end just prises out. 11. new handle fits by sliding back portion into door first and then rotating front. 12. fit the ball end of pull cable first and then pull cable back to snap it into position. 13. refit everything in reverse and should be fine.
hope that helps someone else who might be looking to do this.
