chill6834

Im not saying you have the same problem but when my auto transmission was playing up my car would engage its engine cooling fan to what seemed like maximum after around 15 miles. My temperature gauge would then plummet from just under half and the hot air that was blowing through the vents would suddenly turn cold.

In a nutshell fault codes were present and the auto transmission was over heating.

As i said this most likely is not the fault your car has as youve stated that your temperature gauge doesnt reach just under half way at any point.

best of luck!

My Grand Chrysler Voyager has just failed with the same problems your explaining above.  Its off to a gear box specialist but they think its the talk converter.

when my gearbox was opened up there was a significant amount of metal fragments evident. to cut a long storey short my torque converter was the culprit and had contaminated  the entire gearbox with metal fragments. 

i had a lot of stuff replaced and my total bill was £1998.96 with a 12 month warranty. the gear change is now better than ever!

Here's a breakdown of what was replaced.

torque converter        £245

solenoid bank            £190

master overhaul kit    £235

input sensors            £22

brake band               £21

thrust washer kit       £19.95

Filter                         £8.35

transmission fluid     £99.50

labour                       £825

plus vat at 20%

I could have shopped around but i took our car to the specialist my mechanic recommended. I've only had the car for around 7 months and so i wanted a quality repair. This car had only 1 previous owner and a full documented Chrysler service history when i purchased it. 

hope this helps.

 

All manuals are here all service manuals are here, key dance [will not do transmission codes] is here.

 

Auto gearbox's I'm sure you will agree are in the realms of the 'dark arts department' most of us don't really understand them since the invention of [computer run solenoids] the CANBUS and then the different speed hybrid PCi & CANBUS's running at different speeds moderated by the BCM and routed by the PCM in the same vehicle. I've always tried to avoid 'parts darts' without an accurate starting point which is a competent 'read' of the 41TE errors.

 

Most of the A604 / 41-TE shifting issues are here. The bottom line is you really can't afford not to have the transmission read properly before spending any money otherwise it would be parts darts my friend. At £6 a litre an ATF +4 change is always a bet - but a good one - its the number one failure reason.

 

Many small indi's will have a capable reader for your year vehicle at about £35 a pop but you will have to ring round and ask :

 

- chrysler

- year

- 41TE

 

NOTE : I'd pin down any so called expert by pre-buying and supplying ATF +4 and insisting on its use. I've met many so called good well intentioned experts who really do believe that ATF without the +4 will do because its cheaper and they make more [profit] margin.

 

 

Best of luck.

 

Hi Qinteq, many thanks for the valuable advice you gave!

My mechanic friend loaned me his diagnostic tool. I was finding the loss of prime fault code p0944 and p1790 fault immediately after shift. After clearing these codes i managed to just about drive my car to his garage. By his own admission my mechanic is not an auto gearbox expert but he said we should first try changing the fluid and filter and see what happens. he also said that he could only change the transmission fluid that was held within the gearbox not cooler or torque converter.

as the old oil poored out it was obviously past its sell by date and the filter looked clogged and felt heavy. i collected 4 litres of atf+4 and a genuine filter both from the chrysler main dealer. all codes were again cleared and the car seemed to drive perfect.

after 20 miles or so the car revved when attempting to change up into third. i lost power and had to pull over. a quick check of the gearbox oil level appeared to be ok. i then started car and off i went and all appeared to be ok.

this has since happened twice more. Ive scanned for fault codes again and this time P0218  high temperature operation activated along with 0166 [26, af,  1,66] Please refer to relevant technical manual.

my mechanic has suggested an auto gearbox specialist now take a look so ive booked the car in with VMTP Midlands in cannock for tomorrow morning.

For the benefit of others I'll update this thread as and when i get answers.

wish me luck,

Carl. 

Hi all,

Having just repaired one problem the car has very kindly given me another. Last night when pulling away up hill on a frosty road the auto box seemed to rev before engaging the next gear. I continued my journey to work and noticed that there was a slight whining noise. this morning there was no change and so i was forced to pull over when the check engine light came on.

All gears engage but it feels as though the clutch is slipping? Has any one any ideas? the car has just crept over 100,000 miles and has a full Chrysler history. Ive owned the car since this august. the garage i bought the car from said they serviced it but im beginning to wonder if they changed the transmission fluid.

many thanks in advance for advice given.

carl. 

If anybody is interested ive solved the problem. it turned out to be a loose wire to the plug that connects to the blower resistor. 

Hi,

because i lost the manual of my Voyager , i can not identify this light on my dashboard,

 

can you help me?

 

 

Tnx

 

Marco

Hi Marco, this light shows when the auxiliary heater is on. the auxiliary heater uses a small amount of diesel to help heat your cabin quicker. if i remember correctly it only does this if you have at least quarter of a tank. If you turn your ignition off when this light is on you will still hear the auxiliary heater going beneath the car.

regards,

carl.

Hi all i am new to the forum and this is my first post.

For the last 2 weeks Ive noticed that the blower fails to come on in any position on the dial although sometimes it will randomly burst into life.

I'm aware that the heater blower resistor is usually the prime suspect but isnt that normally when the blowers are stuck on full?

Anyway i have ordered and fitted a new blower resistor. The blowers where working normally for a day but has since returned to only working when it wants to.

I know there are one or two delay functions built in to the heating system but the manual says the blowers will always work when defrost mode is selected.

Does anyone have any suggestions?

Regards,

Carl.