JonWright

Tried ebay?  Not that cheap though!  Might get yourself a rear view mirror as well!!!

Could be a rocker cover gasket leak - this can leak onto the exhaust and create quite a lot of smoke.

They tend to crack/leak when getting old.

They are fairly easy to replace!

Try looking on YouTube - you will see a few videos.  I know you have to effectively drop the frame which was in my case quite difficult as the bolts attaching it to the body had gone rusty - but you can get to them from underneath - so ensure they are well lubricated before even trying.  A good impact wrench helps.  Although you can buy the bushes separately, it is actually easier to buy the whole wishbone with the bushes attached - as they are really difficult to remove!

Sounds like you have a short on the wiring loom.

This is protected in a plastic "chain" like loop and can be prone to break.

Try inspecting the wiring - or even move the plastic chain to see if the door is activated - mind you don't get your fingers trapped.

If it is that - it can be fixed by by-passing any broken wire with a new wire - but ensure that you use replacement wire of sufficient amperage otherwise it will create an overheat.

Fuel pressure?  Too low so at higher revs would cause that to happen - i.e. fuel starvation? Could be fuel pump or a fuel blockage somewhere.

They do push over - eventually - try heating with some warm water, and washing up liquid - when cold they are really tight!  You might be able to push them on further down the bar and then push them back into position!

Yes - low pressure will stop the entire A/C system from functioning.  Personally I have used KwikFit to re-pressure the system (approx £50) as if it doesn't work they do not charge.  I have also had the actual A/C pump fail completely, but managed to get a salvaged one.  You can get A/C pressure testing equipment - check out YouTube for how they work.  This gives an indication if it is just low pressure or totally empty (which would indicate a leak).

If you have a Windows computer - would recommend Delphi cars/van obd software - about £35 on ebay.  I bought this quite a few months back and it's quite amazing - it covers my Chrysler as well as other cars in our family including BMW, Volkswagen, Volvo V70 (including an old 1998 one that didn't have full OBD).  Allows code reading and resetting.  I think you can buy it also ready installed on a computer - but then you pay a little bit more.

Not had this on my Chrysler, but had it on a petrol Land Rover.  Replaced all spark plugs - did compression tests etc.

Turned out one of the spark plug leads was faulty - and it only really showed when under load!

Just to update!

Tried the battery off - but no joy.

Bought a s/h abs unit and installed - still same problem - but did get the abs light on as soon as brakes applied - and this showed a faulty sensor.  Replaced that and bingo - all now as good as before! 

Tip with the sensor, test with an ohmmeter - as it should give a reading - if not then it needs replacing!

Etyres has them listed as 130 Nm on a Google search, Puretires have them at 135 Nm.

I have been using 135Nm for mine for some time (but they are not alloy, but that does not seem to factored in the tables!)

I would presume that your fitter was talking Nm and not in-lbs! 

I've just changed my front pads, and got the same.  My son tells me that the ABS has probably been upset - as I should have released the brake bleed valves rather than just push the pistons back in 

It seems as if the ABS has kicked in constantly, and car pulls to the right slightly on a really hard brake press.  After a few times, the ABS trips, the light comes on and the brakes then work fine - so definitely looks like an ABS problem - almost as if one of the solenoids has stuck.  Have tried core brake bleed, and the diagnostics brake bleed, but with no joy.  Anybody else had this problem and solved it??   

I think that the flow is controlled by some internal panels - and they may have got stuck!  It suddenly started working again but not sure why!!

2002 Chrysler Grand Voyager

Problem: Aircon fans not working - replaced resistor and transducer - still not working - KwikFit regassed - fans now working BUT not aircon in front - blows warm - rear is fine - nice and cold!  So obviously compressor is working as it now triggers fans, and can be visually seen cutting in and out.  KwikFit said no leaks and correct amount of gas used etc (didn't charge as it wasn't working!) Why would it work in the rear but not the front??

Any ideas please!