power

I replaced mine not long ago. Checked both ebay and amazon for them but they were all quite expensive. So i went to the "stealers" to check their price and i got a better price from them if you include the postage and packing and i could bring them home the same day.

However, they sold me the "dorman" version so its was also som kind of aftermarket product but workes fine. I just disconnected the battery and poured hot water on a pice of paper and sqeesed it in between the lower part of the glass and the lower edge on the mirror casing. Left it for 30 minutes and then i heated the mirror around the edges of the glass using a "hot air" blower. I guess my wifes hair dryer had done the job aswell. Then i got as many fingers as i could on the top of the glass between the glass and the casing and just bent out the glass. Be careful, some versions have cables connected to the backside of the glass so make sure to put them back where they where placed. 

Got the rust off but the emergency brake is still not doing its job. Greased the sliding pins, got all rust of the mechanism, checked the wires, replaced the pads but its still bad. Do anyone know if the wire can be adjusted manually or is it supposed to "self adjust" by depressing it?

Got the radiator hose off and drained the system. Added water 3 times, ran the car for about 10 minutes every time with drain/refill. Hopefully i got it all out and added some fresh coolant mixed with destilled water.

Thanks for your help wih this.

Just to let you know i had the same problem. In my case it was the 62TE gearbox running low on ATF+4. Did a flush and replaced the filter and detached the battery for a cuple of hours. Much better now and gets better and better every day.

Wheel bearings are quite common but easy to install a new one. Also check the drive shafts plastic (dont know what its called) seals. If you have a cracked one the drive shaft will let you know, especially when you turn.

Perhaps the previous owns has, dont know...or....perhaps some useless mechanic broke it without telling.

Everything looks the same except that the red plug is missing............. If that is the case then its all gone except for the tiny bit that is left.

Thanks, checked the calipers and the emergency brake wire fitting was all jammed up with rust. All fixed now and i just ordered a new set of pads.

Thank you so much for your help.

Thanks, i checked the rear brake calipers last night, put some grease on the sliding pins and checked the brake cylinders. They all seemed to work fine and the brakes are effective but still, no service brake..... I will check the wire that runs from the lever today (got to dark last night). Perhaps the mechanism just rusty and needs some cleaning and grease.

Thank you for all the tips. Mine looks like the female on the first servicepicture. Like a pipe in solid steel that comes out from the radiator. But inside there is a plastic cap with just one tiny little hole in the center of it? Perhaps there is a "key" for that as well, just a different one since i dont think the "key" illustrated on the picture will fit. I will try to take a picture of it this weekend. 

Yes, i have found the tap but how did you get it to open? There is nothing to grab? Its just a metal hole and in that hole there is a small plastic round thing with a tiny little hole in the middle. My guess is that it requires some special tool or perhaps mine is broken somehow. But when checking it it dosent seem broken. Btw, i have the 2008 diesel model with the CRD engine. Are yours similar?

Hello

Sorry, i guess i mean the service brake. The caliper in it self seems to work from a distance since the break discs are clean and not rusty. The wire seems  to run smooth so it must be something in the caliper that is stuck. I guess i will have a check....

Thanks

Another common point of failiure is using the gasket on the tray. Often combined with uneven edges on the tray or bad torque resulting in a leakage during pressure and heat. Combine this with a lack of level checking you have a gearbox running on low levels for a long time. If you also add in the wrong ATF and/or heavy loads you have a distaster comming.

The "stealers" in Sweden dont use the gasket anymore. They use Silicon sealant for the tray.

With the correct maintenance this 62TE is a relative good gearbox. But if you dont maintain it properly its quite sensetive for missuse.

Make sure to check the levels as often as you can and keep maintenance at 60000 miles the gearbox will probably run for longer than the car:-) If you are unsure how to maintain it properly, leave it to the stealers. Not a local mechanic using the wrong ATF. In that case purchase the ATF+4 from mopar at the stealers and give it to the mechanic. Not everything runs on the cheapest ATF.

Hello

Yes, sorry, you are correct with the milage interval. Missed a zero:-)

Hi

Dont know so much about injectors on diesels but the fuel filter is located in the rear under the car. You will see it for sure if you have a look.

Hello

I have a malfunctioning parking break. The pedal seems to go down and stops but the car is till movable. I guess something has rusted. Anyone have a cure and know what to do?

Thanks

Hello

The ATF+4 in the gearbox has 6000 miles replacement interval and should be level checked 1200 miles. It must be replaced more often if you often run with heavy loads in the car. Make sure to use mopar ATF+4 when changing to meet the specs. I think i got an update on the last dealer service of the gearbox but it did not change anything that i felt. 

The ATF is replaced by dropping the container and replace the fluid. Unfortunetly there is no drain. Spill as little as you can and messure the ATF in the container. Change the filter, and clean the container using break cleaner and a clean cloth. Make sure to take out the magnet and clean it and check for wear. If you want to avoid leakage, use silicon selant and not the seal gasket. As the gearbox gets hot the seal tends to shrink with a probable leakage.

Refit the container and torque in 3-4 laps up to 14nm. Wait for 1,5 hrs until the selant dries and refill the ATF. Start with the withdrawn amount of ATF. If you are to remove the entire amount of ATF from the system and do a so called flush you need to demount the line from the primary pump and drain there until fresh ATF comes out (while refilling the same amount during the process). Do not run the gear box with low level of ATF. 

Refit the hose and fill the box to correct level using a dipstick. The level differs depending on the temperature of the gearbox. Specs for this can be found on the internet.

If you are doing this for the first time make sure to keep everything clean as always when working with all hydralics and make sure to get the correct level on the fluid. Place the gear shift in every gear for 1 minute and recheck the level. This must be done several times to make sure.

Please note that this is my way of doing it. A flush should be done using a filter station etc but this is one way that has worked for me.

Hi

When you open the doors manually from the inside the door should unlock and open. If you close it manually from the inside or outside the door will do a little noise just before closing. Its the lock accutator locking the door using the electrics.

If you use the button on the inside or at the drivers roof it should all run electrical. When it does it makes a little sound but not much..

Known problems with the sliding doors are the cable running in the lover part of the floor, just next to the door. As the cables get older they tend not to bend as much causing the cables to brake. I think Chrysler might have a legal replacement on the sliding door wiering drivers side in Europe. Pls check this with your dealer.

Other known problems is the lock accutator. It gets worn out and eventually stops locking the door.

Hope this was helpful

Hello again

Here is a link to one of the repair kits on ebay.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Chrysler-Grand-Voyager-Lancia-2008-2-8CRD-Loose-Engine-Cover-Grommet-repair-SET/323258758220?hash=item4b43b9344c%3Ag%3A~0kAAOSwwAda-~mw&_sacat=0&_nkw=engine+cover+rapair+chrysler&_from=R40&rt=nc&_trksid=m570.l1313

There are several sellers that sell these so i would suggest the you search for the one closest to you.

Hello

Did anyone ever try to drain the coolant on the European 2,8 CRD version? This is the last part of my service program but i cant seem to get the draining plug out of the radiator? Facing the wheel, on the left hand side, at the lower part of the radiator there should be a draining tap. I have found the little pipe were you are supposed to attach the hose for draining the coolant. On top of that there is a red plastic thingor nut with a tiny hole in it? I have tried every tool i own trying to get it out but nothing seem to fit? I dont want to use too much force since this is a plastic thing and i assume it will brake if i get too violent.

Does anyone know if this requires some special tools, a plastic special dealer tap or something like that? On every other car i have owned the tap is attached but on the European Chrysler....not.

Grateful for all the tips&tricks i can get since there is nothing on the web for this specific version.

Hello

Did anyone ever try to drain the coolant on the European 2,8 CRD version? This is the last part of my service program but i cant seem to get the draining plug out of the radiator? Facing the wheel, on the left hand side, at the lower part of the radiator there should be a draining tap. I have found the little pipe were you are supposed to attach the hose for draining the coolant. On top of that there is a red plastic thingor nut with a tiny hole in it? I have tried every tool i own trying to get it out but nothing seem to fit? I dont want to use too much force since this is a plastic thing and i assume it will brake if i get too violent.

Does anyone know if this requires some special tools, a plastic special dealer tap or something like that? On every other car i have owned the tap is attached but on the European Chrysler....not.

Grateful for all the tips&tricks i can get since there is nothing on the web for this specific version.

Hi

I have had the same problem. There is a dealer update for the electric sensors that can resolve some strange behaviour in the seat. If its totally stuck and all the electrics work and the motor is trying to move the seat i would bet that its the gear that is stuck.

Remove the seat with four bolts and tip it over. Remove the back cover on the left hand side you will see the motor fitted to the gear. Remove the gear and check if its loose. If it is, place a socket on the center bolt and hammer on it. When you have it loose, check for any dirt or sponge in the gear. Put some grease on it. You should now be able to turn the gear over by hand. Refit and it should now work.

There is a repair kit on ebay for this if you have the old one.

If you dont, visit the junk yard or ebay and order one for the European version with WM motori diesel engine.

The US versions wont fit.