SpAwNtoHell

Suspension, brakes, bearings are not hard to source or change... Is just mentality of some garages and mechanics about the word "chrysler" as some things are slightly different

Your fuse box is fine the one in video is the petrol model. Pumps are different.

this are the locking, checking tools:

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ENGINE-CRANK-LOCKING-TIMING-FOR-JEEP-2-8-CRD-2008-2011-ENS-ENGINE-VM9991-VM9992-/181718476336?hash=item2a4f43e630

 

http://i1310.photobucket.com/albums/s658/SpAwNtoHell/locking%20tools_zpsvpmei7av.jpg

 

http://i1310.photobucket.com/albums/s658/SpAwNtoHell/locking%20tools-2_zpsropnyntg.jpg

 

and this is the belt kit:

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Timing-Belt-KIT-Chrysler-Grand-Voyager-RT-2-8CRD-2008-2015-EEP-RT-001A/321809186978?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

 

genuine vm motori kit is also done by gates, but does not come with that circled bit. I could not locate a part number for it, but is fitted tight. The centre of it is soft it has like a washer reinforcement on the inside towards exhaust cam

E-mail sent. Check spam folder also.

I will, but when i get home, tho those are in 1080p, you can see them on photobucket also. So first you want to see if you get power through the relay and fuse to the pump, after use a external feed on the pump... Are any details you would need for me to look up?

 

Ps will look better on a desktop computer or laptop, on mobile phones and tablet...look crap

And this is the toolhttp://i1310.photobucket.com/albums/s658/SpAwNtoHell/310-123_j-45722_9340_zpsgecf4a2k.jpg

Ok here is the info i have, bare in mind i have not done this but this is from Chrysler workshop manual.

 

STANDARD PROCEDURE - DRAINING FUEL TANK

 

WARNING: Eliminate any sources of sparks or open flame near the work area, and do not smoke when the fuel system is open.

1. Disconnect negative battery cable.
2. Remove fuel fill cap.
3. Raise and support vehicle.
4. Remove end of the fuel fill hose clamp (1) at the top of the fuel fill tube.
5. Route a drain hose down into the fuel fill hose opening. There may be a one-way check valve installed into the opening.
6. Drain fuel tank using an approved diesel fuel draining and storage tank. 

 

fuel tank removal:

REMOVAL

WARNING: Pressurized diesel fuel can cause severe personal injury. Always turn the ignition off, and wait at least 30 seconds before servicing any part of the fuel system.

1. Remove fuel cap.
2. If necessary, drain the fuel tank (Refer to 14 - FUEL SYSTEM/FUEL DELIVERY - STANDARD PROCEDURE - DRAINING FUEL TANK).
 

3. Remove hose clamp (2) and remove fuel fill hose from fuel tank.
 

4. Disconnect fuel pump electrical connector (1) from body harness inline connector.
 

5. Disconnect fuel line quick connect fittings (3) and (4) evaporator hoses (1) and (2).
 

WARNING: Support fuel tank with a transmission jack or equivalent. Use straps to secure the fuel tank to the jack. Failure to properly support and secure the fuel tank during removal may cause fuel to spill or fuel tank to fall from jack assembly.

6. Remove fuel tank strap bolts (1) and straps (1).
7. Lower the fuel tank.
8. Transfer fuel into an approved fuel storage container. 

 

fuel delivery pump removal:

 

1. The 2.8L diesel fuel pump module (9) is located on the top of fuel tank.
2. Drain and remove fuel tank (Refer to 14 - FUEL SYSTEM/FUEL DELIVERY - DIESEL/FUEL TANK - REMOVAL).
3. Note rotational position of module before attempting removal. An indexing arrow is located on top of module for this purpose.
 

4. Position special Lockring Remover/Installer tool 9340 into notches on outside edge of lockring (8).
5. Install 1/2 inch drive breaker bar to special Lockring Remover/Installer tool 9340.
6. Rotate breaker bar counter-clockwise to remove lockring.
7. Remove lockring (8).

8. Remove module (9) from fuel tank. Be careful not to bend float arm while removing. 

 

now i hope this helps:

 

http://i1310.photobucket.com/albums/s658/SpAwNtoHell/fuel%20relay_zpswdwe0t4k.jpg

 

m25 is the fuse for in tank fuel pump

 

http://i1310.photobucket.com/albums/s658/SpAwNtoHell/integ%20power%20module_zpst93j9rty.jpg

 

and here is the diagram: 

 

http://i1310.photobucket.com/albums/s658/SpAwNtoHell/integ%20power%20module%20sch_zpsxoa91qcu.jpg

 

i hope i do not need to do  a pump change on this car looks like a right mess getting it out, getting the diesel out and the tank out... to much precaution need to be taken...

 

Let mne know if i can get you more info.

I will have a look when i get home on the diagrams, but all relays and fuses are under de bonnet by battery tray.

You could check the pump really,did not look to see if it has a fuse, but normally if you would get it on ramps or in a silent place and have some one putting key in ignition on while you are close to the fuel filer you should here it acting for few sec. Is any diesel on the 2 pipes that go over the cambelt cover? On is feed and one is return. Disconect them put a container under and put ignition on if you get diesel the in tank pump is pushing fuel to the high pressure injection pump. Take it from there first and eliminate the rear of the car. Common rail pressure is achieved during crank.

Fuel under emgine cover is likely either injector retufns or high pressure linevfeeding the injectors... if air gets trapped lines all the way to the tank will be empty as fuel will travel back. You can try putting ignition on and off five times or so to make intank pump to push as much as possible( as more fuel in the tank as possible also helps), after you can try some diesel easy start to make it fire up, once started pay atention whee is gettjng fuel out, injector returns or high pressure pipes from common rail to injectors. Those pipes are a pig as they are ment to hold a lot of pressure and knce removed and refitted should be replaced as mostof tjme they will not create a seal to withstand that high feed pressure.

Any diesel leaks on return of the injectors?? How is the fuel filter? Any codes on keydance?

Gearbox also gets some data from engine temp sensor and could make it go in failsafe, or at least on mk5.

Glad you sorted it out. I am still curious where the position sensor is located tho as apparently it is one for each front seat.

Woww!!! I am interested also in what it is, is looking pretty identical to the genuine, and seems to have some extra bobs in also.

Since April

Is all over better then mk4. Safety, mpg if you come from the 4 auto box. Make sure the gearbox is ok tho... my one had put in after i got it a full recon box put in, in some instances i was getting 40mpg at 60mph... recently i needed to go to europe and leaving london got to dover after in france and just before achen and after bruxelles at 80mph constant i realized something is wrong as revs tended to get higher and higher to the same speed...ended up turning back as as soon as the gearbox oil overheats will cut you back on speed. So moral to this is check it on long runs that is ok before you adventure like i did.

 

I did not own a mk4 but i had one 57 2.8crd on my hands for a while... mk5 is far better all around. Engine wise looks bulletproof in my eyes if serviced corect. Electrics are not bad also but has some common issues do to were and tear, slide doors wiring, central locking motors, driver side engine mount ground strap and thats it really, otherwise is fine

Hello,this will help. If you require a full workshop manual a dvd can be sourced on ebay. For computer diagnostic you can use appcar FCA but is licensed and only for one vin(browse the topics is one already about this).

 

http://www.chryslerforum.co.uk/topic/428-manual-workshop-manuals/

Are quite o lot of variations for mirrors... if is convex, grade 1 to 5, on top if heated or not and third if is dimming or not snd if you mix all of this... are a lot of mirrors, but we where talking here about mirror side repeater... some do not have them on the mirror but on the wing...

Can be many things, from drop link, top mount, a coil spring not setled properly, tracking rod or end antiroll bar bush....and the list can carry on so either needs to be heard or look at... or could be just some debris in driveshaft boot or around disc or caliper...

The hard way: find all earth points and fix if necessary check wires from drivers door to body also passenger to body, where comes out of the door... my one was a bad motor for central locking being noisy and 2 broken wires one suspected touching body.

If you can link a pic and maybe a part number that might be on it i can check in the data base epc. What exactly dtc you have?

I have one of those also... pretty useless on chryslers, chances are you get more out of key flip then that. I use fca appcar for myself...but will put you back 90 so £ for it and the interface and you need a laptop.

Do you have a picture of it? Is it for dual dvd s or not?

Hmmm, sohnds like a bad idee to tamper more with the draincock... alternatively you have towards the midle of the radiator a hose joiner, link that joins the bottom radiator hose with the engine coolant, you can undo that to drain, but can be a bit messier so be prepared to have a larger surface adecvate container.

If you need some exploded view of something let me know.