ZombieRodeo

On 5/10/2022 at 4:17 PM, Keith said:

Reading this about the amp in the back i'd thought I better take a look. found a power lead about 8 foot long going to some sort of USB plug that was rusty and bloated, scotch blocked to the amp power lead, so that could be a lot of the drain (no fuse to be found anywhere). Next the towing socket....all scotch blocked again so this might be another source of the drain. Had enough for today so I ordered Tow bar bypass relay for Cambus vehicles. I'll see if I can do another test in the morning. ( I've also ordered the  Car Battery Switch Isolator Terminal Quick Cut-off) Belt and Bracers

 

I bought one of those battery isolators but the negative cable on my Voyager wouldn't fit on it

My 2005 GV has been off the road now for 8 months and I have decided I want to try and turn it into a (tiny) camper.
Does anybody have or know if there are any diagrams available with all the measurements inside the GV?
I would do it myself but the GV isn't kept at my place and it would be so much easier if their were ready made plans for this!

 

I've looked online and can only really find external measurements 

My 2005 GV has been off the road now for 8 months and I have decided I want to try and turn it into a (tiny) camper.
Does anybody have or know if there are any diagrams available with all the measurements inside the GV?
I would do it myself but the GV isn't kept at my place and it would be so much easier if their were ready made plans for this!

 

I've looked online and can only really find external measurements 

From what I remember, they don’t pop up every time... I think they pop up and spray the lights every 3 or 4 times you spray the windscreen.

Hi Just a point the side light dimmer make sure you leave in the second position down from top or the battery will drain out.

I’m always knocking this to the first position when I get out my car!

I've tried a few different updated discs for the RB3 system in my 2005 Grand Voyager but they all have the same problem, it comes up on the screen asking if I want to update from Ver. AA to AC yet I can't select anything. It constantly freezes on that YES / NO screen.

To get rid of the screen I have to remove the disc and turn the engine off for a few minutes.

 

I've tried all the different buttons and nothing will work.

For the DVD Screen, try taking the screen apart and you should find a little metal disc with a small flat side that rotated when you flip down the screen to create a link and turn it on. When I got my GV I found the same problem as you, all I did was reseat that disc and now it’s worked ever since.

It might have just rotated a little out of place so it’s not properly lining up.

Mine was doing this when I first got it... I wound up taking the screen apart and the problem was the little metal half circle that creates the connection to turn the screen on or off when flipping the screen.

I took it out and then just put it back in and that seemed to fix it.

It had probably been knocked out of position a little bit

My GV failed on the Parking Brake, if you pump the lever a few times that tightens it up too... I made sure to do it before the MOT and it passed straight away.

It didn’t work the new pumps connectors are a little wider and the casing is a little shorter.

 

In the end I took the old one apart, cleaned up the motor and it seems to work now.

I’m doing it the ‘fuse way’ as I got the hardwire kit with my dashcam and that has the fuse attachment on it... I never even considered doing it another way!

I have another query now... I got myself a Nextbase 512GW dashcam and hardwire kit.

 

How can I connect the cable to the fuse box as I’m assuming the only one is in the engine.

 

I’ve been ripping my the car apart looking for a hole but can’t find one, I can’t remove the wiper arms as they seem to be seized onto the bolts so I’m a bit stuck now!

 

Has anyone hardwired a Nextbase dashcam using the kit?

The plastic cover for the electrical connectors can be removed from my pump and from what I can tell the only difference between the old model and the new model is the shape of the connector, so I was thinking about buying the new shaped one and swapping over the plastic cover.

 

Yesterday my washers had hardly any pressure and not much water came out, i checked the nozzles and the pipes and they are fine... the motor in the washer pump is really rusty and after cleaning it up a bit (and cleaning the filter bit) I now get no water at all.

 

I’ve checked the fuse stand they are all fine too.

The windscreen washer pump in my 2005 GV has stopped working but I’m having trouble finding a new one anywhere but eBay, the one I need always seems to be more expensive than the ones for the newer models.

The pumps look the same but have a different shaped connector on top... would it be possible to take the top cover off a new one and replace it with the correct shaped connector cover from my old one?

I've just got hold of the 2011 rb3 nab disc and I'm trying to update my system, but it comes up with 'Software update FromVERS AA ToVERS AD' message it will let me choose Yes or No but it won't let me select it... then it just freezes on that screen and I have to disconnect my battery to reset it as ejecting the disc doesn't help.

 

Any ideas?

(Sorry for the cross-post those guys who are on the .com forum too, trying to get as many people eyes on it!)

 

Hi folks,

 

2.8CRD auto 2005 121,000 miles.

 

This one just jumped out at me, and doesn't sound good at all for my GV. It's a rattle/rumble that happens at idle, give it a little revs and it goes away, under normal driving you only notice it when the revs drop back to almost the idle position. Runs fine, smooth, no issues with gear shifts, etc.

My first suspicion was the auto-box, or flexplate as it sounded like it came from the box casing, however a friendly local autobox specialist kindly had a listen/look for me and used a microphone listener and he doesn't think it's the autobox (The sound doesn't go away when in drive, when the flexplate, etc, would be put under hydraulic pressure which normally is when a flexplate/gearbox fault would change in sound). He listened all over the engine and couldn't pinpoint, he said it sounds almost like it's from the block itself and echoing, so he's suggesting I drop the belt first and see if that makes the sound go away or change at all.

(So firstly, whats the procedure for taking the belt off on the 2.8CRD RHD, as it doesn't look particularly easy to access the tensioner. Best from underneath or the top and just use the right socket and long bar?)

 

Failing that he's suspecting an injector possibly that's destroyed (partially or not) itself and rattling badly.

 

Has anyone heard something similar and have any pointers on this one please? This one is making me worried!

 

He's the recording of it, this is sat outside work so after a 30 minute drive, sound doesn't change on temperatures.

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4HZIg8QhLkw

 

I took my 2005 Auto 2.8 CRD to the garage last week as it was making a loud rattling noise (exactly the same as in your video) on idle (the trader i bought it from told me it was a heat shield) turned out to be the Catalytic Convertor, the garage replaced it with a new one for £295.

 

I only went in to get the steering wheel realigned and wound up replacing the CAT, getting new front brake discs and pads, two new front tyres and a new CV joint... not bad for only owning the car 1 day! I still need to fix the rear shock absorbers, rear wiper, washer fluid bottle and the DVD screen as I already fixed the power doors and the power tailgate.

I have been hearing a clunk from the back of my car and checked to find the rear shock absorber bush has deteriorated, I looked online for a new set of absorbers (or bushes) but am now completely confused as some ads say 'only for self-levelling suspension' and some don't say anything... How do I know if my car has it? Where can I find this info?

 

It's a 2005 Grand Voyager Limited XS 2.8 CRD

I bought an '05 Grand Voyager Ltd Xs on Wed but found out (amongst a lot of problems with it) that the DVD screen is faulty, if I move the screen around I can get a picture, but it flickers a lot.

I tried to remove it to try and see if it's an easy fix but I can't even undo the bolts as I can't find a socket piece long enough.

 

Is there a special tool for this or am I just being stupid?