bignev

Problem now sorted hopefully...
Before I go into details, I would like to quote the old saying 'buy cheap, buy twice, buy thrice' as all brake pads are not equal & all brake pads do not fit as properly as OEM pads....especially if they are produced in China for the EU.
My problem was brake knock/rattle over bumpy roads at low speed & it was indeed the pads. It wasn't the height of the pads that was the problem (183.4 mm), it was the width of the pad ears. The pad ears on cheap pads are not wide enough, hence they rock back & forth, which causes a clunk/rattle on rough ground which goes away when you apply the brakes.
I bought some NAPA 'proformer' pads & they have ears that are (and I've measured them with a micrometer) 0.9mm wider, which pushes into the caliper clips alot tighter, thus stopping them rocking back & forth and preventing the brake pad from rattling....at last I'm a happy 300C driver

Sorry but would suggest ECU has been electrocuted! - There is a feed to this that does not go via the ign switch i.e. live all the time. 

I will answer myself if someone should have similar problems:

The case is solved. Its not easy to find a wiring diagram for the 2.8 diesel but at last I found one.

The three pins on the alternator stands for Dummy-LIN-Dummy so only the "LIN" should be connected.

According to the wiring diagram there should be a wire between ECM pin #93 and the LIN connections with white/orange.

Found the cable by the ECM but the other end is impossible to find if i dont remove a lot of things.

Cut the wire and made a new cable to the alternator and works perfect!
 

Few things there.  What engine & transmission do you have?  Jerky take up of drive could be worn engine or gearbox mounts causing those items to move excessively and transmit the movement through the car.  Or could be a worn clutch or flywheel.  Can you rock the engine back & forth by hand?  How many miles has it done, do you know if it's ever had a clutch?
Car should slow down when you take your foot off the throttle due to engine braking, be pretty dangerous if it didn't so not sure what to say about that.
Stop & start failure is very likely battery voltage related so you might have a weak battery, in which case you could try disconnecting it & giving it a proper charge overnight, or maybe the alternator isn't fully charging it so either way be worth checking the battery.  With the car off it should be 12-13V, with the engine running around 14V.  These cars are of course Lancias made by Fiat, nothing to do with Chrysler, so if you have a look on the Fiat forum there's quite a bit about S&S failure messages.

Hi Big Nev
         my oil pressure sensor was also the fault thanks for your input
Regards Dave

Thanks mate I will give them a go, yes not much response on this site bit of a waste of time really ! 

I think you have answered it yourself - water over electrics. Not at all good. Dry it and then move onward.
You hopefully know that the transmission fluid is checked with the engine running and hot?
Oh and post in the correct section, the forum is nearly dead anyway!
 

Water ingress on the brake pads makes the problem worse, so obviously a washout issue with how the pad ears & clips are greased.
Copper grease of now seems to be different of copper grease of old & doesn't seem to be up the job anymore.
Tried lithium grease... no better. Tried ceramic grease...no better. Tried CV joint grease...PERFECT !!
CV joint grease....that black stinky stuff that smells like hydraulic fluid is perfect for brake pad ears & clips. Super lubricating & doesn't wash out. No more creaking & clunking when braking for 3 months now, even after driving through numerous deep puddles.

Hi there,
I think it's just a bit of a coincidence, sadly, as the gearbox has input and output speed sensors on the 41TE auto on ours, and to my knowledge that's how it gets the feed for the speedometer.
However, I stand to be corrected!!
The wheel sensors are for the abs system.
So it's very odd your speedo is now out of sync.  Perhaps the old trick of disconnecting the battery for half an hour might help the electronic brains to reset?
@gordy may have an idea on it? Hey pal!!?

If there was little to no resistance, its probably touched valves sadly. And turning an eigth of a turn on the cam shafts then getting resistance could be normal, as in valves getting pushed down and touching a piston.
But other than that standard knowledge,  unfortunately I can't help you further, sorry!

Not aware of any previous details - there are three cables from the parking brake lever, lever to intermediate bracket, n/s cable to bracket and o/s cable these are extracts from w/s manual hope they help

Hey, thanks for getting back to me even tho it's been a long time, I just abandoned my Chrysler for now, I'm focusing on other things, I should get a second injector return test this weekend and we'll see from there... I'm more and more thinking about my fuel pump, seems like air into fuel causing my weird idle + cutting out, I will keep you guys updated in the future

OBD scanner to be ordered tomorrow. 

Thanks a lot, my friend!  New filter has been ordered. Also correct ATF oil will be refilled.
I'ĺl keep you informed of any progress in fixing this problem.

Thanks Richard, will look out for it.

Did this a couple of years ago on mine, try this, cheapest I could find that had a good reputation. Works well

Hello Im not sure if this is the right section . But I bought a gv with no dvd buttons, anyway . Bought some from eBay and they work 

Hi there!
Mine doesn't have them, but my educated guess would be the sensor battery has gone.

Im convinced its not the oil as much as i will change it to the Mopar that most recommend.  I do have a spare solenoid pack i think when i broke my previous voyager (same model) appreciate your advice bud, been driving these for 20 years, just very unlucky with this one. best model was the 1999 v6 petrol , I miss it 
 

Have you had the car long?
Any documented detailed history of service?
Did you use Mopar ATF+4 fluid - the specific type for the transmission on these?
If not, that could be part of the problem.  Or naff all to do with it.
These are very sensitive little souls, on all manner of things....

Thanks guys . I've an idea for a quick fix . Going to put a remote  battery kill switch on it £20 on eBay . Turn off when I don't need it , turn on when I do . I'll let you know how I get on , I realize no alarm .but I'm in a safe place . Cheers guys . 

Only too happy to supply diagrams if required... On the battery discharging overnight, this may be due to an old or underrated battery. Also when you've got a few moments check for excessive drain from the battery with every thing switched off. There is a great deal of information on the site regarding parasitic drain (quite often caused by a faulty audio amplifier) - If it is this just pull the fuse and check again. On the subject of the fifth door, there are reports of this on the site but have never heard how (or if) it was resolved. Pity you live so far away as I have a donor GV (2006) with a power rear door that works fine (died of gearbox failure), as bignev said this sounds like a precursor to the TCM providing another challenge. When I bought the donor I spent a bit of time trying to fix the gear problem - resolved the all gears lit  up problem (wiring problem) - thought hey ho but did not resolve the gearbox problem - kept changing gear at will .. but that's another story.
Good luck with your project (don't want to be pessemistic but it's enough of a challenge keeping a normal GV on the road.. (Yes Bignev, I agree, there ain't no such thing as NORMAL with respect to the GV..

Hello there!
Take it back, you're in for a world of pain on Voyager electrics.
No, never come across anyone else with that particular fault.

So Just an update....
Thanks to RichardM i was able to test the individual sensors and wiring with more detail on resistences etc. Now the most suspect item is the PCM - Power Train Control Module or ECU. I have learned that this is in harmony through the can bus with the immobiliser. So I am now in the area of trying to test or clone the ECU. The unit was sent to one well established company who could not test it. So, It is with another who do cloning by transferring the eprom chip to a doner ECU. That's the stage I am at at the moment, however upon dismantling the ecu, the main circuit board is covered in a jelly structure that is difficult to remove and see through. They dont know quite where this chip is so it is taking a bit of time. If anyone has had experience of cloning and where the chip is would be helpful. If this does not work I think I may have to get a whole set of ECU's and immobiliser and keys from a dismantler. It would appear that if this ECU was a bosch, they are relatively easy to clone and electronically disable the immobiliser.
Seems I am down a rabbit hole and may not get back out !!

According to the workpoo manual fuses 1,2,3 control the front lights
1 - Front Fog Lamps
2 - left parking / turn lamp 
3 right parking/ turn  lamp & rear lamps
( assume the parking lamps are also the front sidelights ?
Headlights are fed directly from the front control module (both high and dip
Bulbs blown ??
Switch dodgy ??
wiring damaged ??
 
let us know how you get on