RichardM

Nothing wrong with a good bodge!

You need to be more specific with the problem - If you struggle with the language, use your native language in google translate, turn it into English, copy the text and then paste it into the forum. 

Sorry but would suggest ECU has been electrocuted! - There is a feed to this that does not go via the ign switch i.e. live all the time. 

located after the air cleaner (o/s engine ) -> see dwg.

Mk4 is not fully OBD compliant,  J1850 protocol is implemented for some functions but very few readers work, even fewer allow you to reprogram anything..

The battery temperature sensor is also used for

OBD II diagnostics. Certain faults and OBD II monitors are either enabled or disabled depending upon the battery temperature sensor input (example: disable purge and EGR, enable LDP).

Most OBD II monitors are disabled below 20°F.

The battery temp is read via a NTC thermistor  readings are;

SPECIFICATIONS - BATTERY TEMPERATURE SENSOR

°C °F K-Ohms Min. K-Ohms Max.

-40 -40 291.4 381.7

-20 - 4 85.8 108.4

20 68 11.4 13.6

25 77 9.1 10.9

120 248 0.37 0.41

130 266 0.28 0.32

to bypass if you cannot get a replacement thermistor replace it with a 12K resistor (20sih  degrees C.

Any mention of diagnosis in the manual refers to the DRBIII reader - obsolete 2nd hand rare and blxxdy expensive.

Believe they are the same (in general), ..... Understand that Chrysler made a mod to the 41TE in 2007 - but what this mod was I do not know. I had my tx filter changed last year and it took two tries to obtain the correct replacement (this is with the VIN supplied ).. so  can find no other reference to the AD/AE bit.

The 41TE is a derivative of the A604.

'Tech section ->

Vehicle Assistance Chrysler Voyager / Grand Voyager Voyager 4th Generation (2001-2007

Trust you have a multimeter.

Haven't had this problem but - A signal is sent to the sliding door lock motor P34 TN/LB to unlock - maybe if in quiet position you'll hear this actuate - there is probably a logic somewhere saying yes door lock released (as per manually pressing the latch) ??? 

If there is no action on the actuator check voltage & current - if voltage but no current suggest actuator buggered, if neither check wiring back to BCM. (Wiring diagram attached.)

Goodluck - let us know how you get on. (I do have a spares GV if you need a replacement)

Turn heating / air con off, then start, drive off then switch on the heater - works for me.

Sympathy for living in Melbourne, lived there myself for two years, sourcing parts is probably going to be restricted to online (ebay etc.) except where parts are common between the GV and the Jeep, don't know what penetration the GV made into the Australian market, would think most would be the V8 petrol version judging by what I remember about fuel prices.

congrats on sorting problem with intercooler,as for the fob -possible co-incidence - maybe battery needs changing ? Is it just the lock - unlock not working - assume car still recognises the SKIM & therefore starts OK ???

Not aware of any previous details - there are three cables from the parking brake lever, lever to intermediate bracket, n/s cable to bracket and o/s cable these are extracts from w/s manual hope they help

20 hours ago, bignev said:

If there was little to no resistance, its probably touched valves sadly. And turning an eigth of a turn on the cam shafts then getting resistance could be normal, as in valves getting pushed down and touching a piston.

But other than that standard knowledge,  unfortunately I can't help you further, sorry!

bignev is right, the 2.8GV engine is of the interference design, i.e. it relies on the timing between crank and cams to stop valve meeting piston. If they do meet it ain't a pretty sight.  

sorry for delay, been on other duties.... and notifications seem to have seized up.

To answer your question, a bloody lot -ripped knuckles guaranteed and this is on a new filter housing. Can not be any more specific cause I don't need to do this very often these days (grateful for small mercies)

Assuming you have a diesel the attached may help...PSPump.rtfPSPump.rtfPSPump.rtf

If the wastegate is blocked you should get an error code - I did, cannot remember the code - sorry.

It's a British company, found them through a google search

Sorry but a lot more information is required to even guess what's happened - any OBD codes ? You say won't drive either way (assume forward and reverse ) but state less jumping in forward mode - please clarify. Is selection working correctly i.e. P R N 3 2 1 illuminating correctly ? Year, model, mileage - service history ? How long have you had the vehicle ?? 

Will try to help but there are many variables with the transmission.

You're a busy person (politically correct) - remember the sensor feeds the ECU which feeds a modulating sq. wave to the solenoid, if you've got a scope then make sure you're getting the pulsed wave when cold, sensors have a nasty habit of being sensitive to temperature. Understand the crank sensr is a bitch to change on RHD GVs - let us know how you get on. Oh the week, small price to pay, I've been trying to sort mine out  (on and off) for two years + .

Did this a couple of years ago on mine, try this, cheapest I could find that had a good reputation. Works well

Unless there is a reason - smoky exhaust, poor performance / starting then why worry about a compression test - unless you've got some sort of come back on the purchase - if there is something wrong then it's going to be a very costly process to sort it out. Pulling the glow plugs to do the test is not the best method without disconnecting fuel lines as excess diesel in the bores can cause problems.

Looks like you've done an awful lot of work. At least it sounds as if things are gettig better if not yet perfect (Question to the whole community, does anyone have a perfect GV ?? - is there such a beast ??

Anyway, you mentioned changing the cam sensor - there may be mileage in changing the crank sensor (or testing it if you have the facilities. Have read on a forum somewhere that it can cause these types of problem whilst the EMS thinks it's in range.

Also, check the fuel pressure sensor and fuel regulator solenoid.., and if that isn't enough,similar problems can occur with the O2 sensor, though this will I believe throw a OBD error. 

If you're running on gas (American petrol) try Fuse 15 -20A; feeds to 87 on TCR.. I kow from the A104 reference that you're on diesel but of course  the Yank's detail Diesel details in the WSM only when they see fit. Sorry, cann't help any futher other than suggest checking continuity back to the battery

What vehicle, what year, what engine ???

Car alarms (IMHO) are a waste of space, they go off for no apparent reason and when they do go off for the purpose they are intended everyone ignores it. Best of blxxdy luck ! - Please keep the forum updated on any progress.