maxcaddy

Okay, a bit late as I only look in occasionally, but when I did mine I didn't change the pump because there was no play in the shaft whatsoever. 
 
That said I was glad as getting to it looked difficult, and you might have to undo the engine mounts to get the engine moved enough to get good access.
 
Presumably by now you've done the job, so hopefully it all went back together okay 

Okay, carried on and prised out the Bush, it had to come out one way or another, and with that out the sub frame was lowered and the Arm came out.
 
Old Bush off, new one on, well on once I spent a long time cleaning the inside of it out of over-rubberisation (note to self - do not but cheap eBay replacement parts), and now all back together   .
 
Now to address the other thing it failed on, smoky engine bay  .
 
 

Thanks for all advice in the past, I doubt anything will replace the GV ....BUT totally understand where you're coming from best vehicle on the road when they go but too often they don't. All the best in your quest and as bignev says don't loose touch. 

Sad to see you both go! Pop back and let us know what you get next! 
You don't have to own a Voyager to impart your knowledge and experience! Please check in now and again! 
All the best mate, Nev

The world's gone blooming bananas on everything.  The Baxi boiler I frequently fit has gone from a grand to £1320 in less than 2 years. Disgusting. How the heck can any normal person survive this? 
It's sad on the car, but I also think ours may not be too long for this world. Its got several tinkling clanking noises, and a very rusty suspension top mount under the bonnet. And I'm not very inclined to tackle a oair of front struts. They're only 6 years old anyway, brand new complete units. Humbug. And an exhaust blow, again, and it's still drinking coolant. Hey ho.

Solved this problem on my 2005 GV. 
After a massive exchange and cleanup of sensors, filters, fuel filter housing etc. the remaining cause had to be the fuel pump itself.
Handed it over to a mechanic who confirmed that two out of three return valves were stuck. This led to a drop in fuel pressure or lack of fuel to the injectors as only 1/3 of the diesel could pass.
Replaced the small steel balls of the right size and problem fixed. These balls came in a small bag and was easily fitted. These balls get worn out over the years. I see a lot of frustrated GV owners out there, like myself. 
Great car except for all that needs fixing all the time
 
A lot of interesting ideas in this forum, but don't get carried away.  Engine cutting out at acceleration must be fuel starvation. Take it from there. Check the moving parts first....they always wear out first...

Mine is also odd.
Whenever I open the door to get in it says:
'You will regret buying this car. Wait until you see how soon the battery will go flat''
Then when getting out it says:
"Phew, we made it. THIS time!".

Well, discovered another little foible, the door mirrors won't fold in unless the engine is running . There's probably some other oddities as well, but that was the last thing of note. Of course having to start the engine again on a busy Ferry with a tradition belch of smoke, wasn't what everyone else wanted .
Now the good news, it's made it to the Pyrenees (again), but I did treat her very gently on the Motorways .
 

Fairly sure the radio isn't the main failure as it stopped working about 4 years ago, the same time as the GPS, and long before my recent woes started.
To conclude the weird instrument cycling I can live with, the lack of central locking is inconvenient but liveable, and the uncertainty whether it all might suddenly stop has been mitigated by the fact its still running 2 weeks later.
So unless it gets significantly worse I'll keep it running until something else goes wrong 
 

.
Wow, a bit like comparing scars and bullet wounds .
The biggest problem for me is that A, they don't make them any more, and B that there isn't anything similar on the market to replace it.
In this day and age I struggle to understand why if you  have something which was successfully marketed around the world, then why did they (FIAT Chrysler) stop making it ?, seems totally dumb to me.
But hey in the words of many, what do I know .
 
 

Well yep that's a pain in the posterior!
 
I've warned mine a few times too, behave or else.
The AC no longer works, and I am NOT replacing that front to rear pipe run, I did it about 6 years ago with a new Chrysler part, very reasonable at the time, all 4 (2 cool 2 heat) pipes for about £150.
The rear heater coil leaks so its capped off.
It uses (don't know how or where!!) coolant - just regularly top it up.
Folding mirrors cocked up years ago. 
Electric sliding door drivers side cable track has broken a wire, it also had a new one about 5 years ago. No - my electrical soldering isn't any good, I've tried it.
Handbrake is predictably garbage.
Built in DVD player has a mind of its own, but my girls are a bit older now have other devices to keep them entertained, thankfully.
3 water pumps, 2 power steering pumps, 2 ignition coils, radiator, rear calipers stick then get replaced (possibly another on the cards now!), a couple of door lock actuators, 2 complete front suspension struts (springs / dampers / top mounts), at least 2 sets of front suspension drop links, anti roll bar bushes, front wheel bearings, and I'm sure lots of others I'm blanking from memory!
All minor, but still slightly annoying, given how much effort and parts I put into it when we bought it 8 years ago to make it pretty mint.
Like you, though, we think it is still a great car when it's behaving for family !

Well many thanks chaps, however.......
It's not the IOD fuse cos I took that out many moons ago.
It's not rebooting the system cos that happens every morning when I reconnect the Battery.
It's not Fuses Nos 5 and 20, cos they're now both out, and its not better.
It's not (as someone else said to me) a dicky battery, as I changed that, and it's exactly the same.
What I have discovered is :- that to lock it (noting the key fob now doesn't do anything) you have to sit in it with all doors closed and Ignition on. Then Lock it by pushing the switch on the door panel down, and it all locks. Turn ignition off, use the inside door handle to unlock the drivers door, and then get out. then lock the drivers door manually outside, and it's all then locked. A right pain......
Anyway, all the time it's running it's useable, even though this latest scene of events is somewhat annoying. I did read the riot act to it a couple of years ago after when I replaced the Thermostat and Radiator, with the threat that it would be going to meet the great recycler in the sky if it went wrong again, and in fairness it has behaved itself until very recently. 
I'm just optimistic that there's something silly that has failed, and that I can easily/cheaply sort it out, otherwise I can see my patience wearing thin if it continues to mess about. 
 

Well, I found a £115 Alternator on fleabay, fitted it, and it works fine. Which is what I hoped for other than some silly wiring/electrical fault.
So, the old girl soldiers on .

Cheers Nev,
I'm fairly sure that a new Alternator will fix it, but it's just the buy an Alternator, buy a wiring loom, buy a fuse/relay box, buy something else, etc, etc, pathway, that I don't want to go down.
I put a few feelers out to folk who know more than me, but I can see an Alternator on order by the end of the weekend .
 
 

So, as usual the manual for the 'Export Model' is BS. Hardly surprising considering my (limited) experience working on the old girl, I usually ship it off to my friendly garage as I have neither the enthusiasm, motivation or tool set to deal with her.  
I guess I'm lucky having a local garage that I trust, they are honest even to the point of telling me to get rid of the bus and buy something more reliable, but I'm 6'5" and it's the only car I've driven that doesn't require double jointed knees. It's also great to just drop the seats when I need a van rather than the hernia inducing removal of other vehicles.......

And rather unfortunately any advice is a little late, as this thread is over 7 years old........
 
From my experiences on the Subaru Outback forum, I believe in the USA you can run "carfax" checks which seem to quite often have service histories if the workshops have uploaded them. As you say @maxcaddy that doesn't exist in the UK!

Thank you for al your help I have hopefully now fixed the transmission relay problem code p0888 fingers crossed 

Well the hubs arrived after 2 days (blxxdy heavy) and checked them for shoulders and yup they have them. Arranged with Judds (friendly garage) to fit them today and apart from a few curses about everything being seized (the n/s had to be ground through to release it) job done and dusted. Driving the old girl back home was a revelation, so quiet ...
I haven't done any mileage yet but the hubs certainly look the part, fit as per originals and were less than £85.00 for the pair. (Ebay GSF).
GSF's item number for these hubs is  303770358853.When you order they ask you to supply your VIN and they then confirm suitability, as I said no mileage on them yet but so far an excellent buy.

I'm not at home so can't get under the bonnet to check mine, but have you read the lid of the relay and fuse box? Next tk the battery?
But it might not be that, could be the Powertrain Control Module not doing its bit. Try a general tinterweb search, I just turned up a bit of info on an American site.
The unit on the gearbox is the solenoid pack, which is a different animal.

Cheers , clearly a design feature then .
Got to be honest I was worried until I found out what it was, and then cos the EGR has never been off or been cleaned in 15 years, it wasn't a surprise if it were gunged up.
As this could be its last year, I'll leave it alone to next year depending on how regularly it comes on.
You're totally right re the EWL going out, as irrespective of who says what, on some cars it will only go out only when reset, whereas on others it can clear itself on start up .

The 'track rod ends' ordered from Jeepchryslerparts midday Friday arrived the next day (saturday), that's phenomenal delivery performance and well worth praising. Anyway fitted them fairly easily, and put it in for a retest this afternoon. Lo and behold I now have a 12 month MoT on her, so she lives for another year .
4 tyres are going on Saturday, and then a re-tracking, and that should be good enough for another 12 mts/10,000 miles. 
For those old/interested enough to remember Faulty Towers, I have similar relationship with my GV to what Basil had with his 1100 whereby it's been threatened and clearly knows that if it seriously misbehaves, it'll be send to the big scrapyard in the sky .

Well not surprisingly it failed, but only on the N/S track rod end. I wouldn't mind but I changed them about 3 years/25,000 miles ago, and at the time didn't buy cheap and nasty eBay items, more like average cost ones . Anyway fail one did, so a pair from Jeepchryslerparts are on order. There were a few advisories especially with the tyres, but hey for 130,000 miles and 15 years, it could have been far worse 
Enthused with the potential success, I'll put 4 tyres on it, retest, and maybe get another year of life out of the old girl .
 

Another fine day today, and another problem solved .
The offside light unit which not been working ended up being solely because the connector at the back of it wasn't pushed fully home . I've had the light out before, last time about 3 years ago when replacing the Radiator, but amazingly the light has worked since then until now. Anyway a splash of electrical contact cleaner, and it's all back in place and working fine.
Next step is to renew the MoT which actually isn't due until March, but as the old girl needs a set of boots, I need to know that there's nothing else of serious note going to go wrong before investing in a new set.
Who knows, perhaps it'll end up living for another year  
 

Okay half the problem fixed .
The standard Aux drive belt is a 6PK1420. If you bypass the Aircon Compressor and the idler pulley above it, a 6PK1290 belt works but there is only 6mm clearance between the run of the belts, and at tickover they just kiss together. Using a 6PK1275 belt gives 22mm clearance between the runs, and other than being tight to squeeze on works fine. So instead of having to buy another compressor just to be 'in circuit' for £40 I have a working solution, which if I had been more luckier/accurate would have only been £20.
If I had to do it again or if someone else has the problem, then I would suggest using a 6PK1280 belt which will give adequate clearance. and be a shade easier to fit.
The hardest part of the job is taking off (& putting on) the 'elasticated' power steering belt which when working in the drive, in January, wasn't the easiest of tasks, but competed satisfactorily all the same .
Now to look at why the lights pack up...............
 
 
 

FCU is on the n/s in front of the IPM (the thing that house the fuses and relays), it's an aluminium box. 
I don't think you'll have hit it but you nay have caught a cable.(see image)