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Afternoon all. I thought I would share a bit of a story that happened to me this weekend, in the hope that it will help some others if the same thing happens to them. The model it concerns is any 300C with the Mercedes 3 litre V6 diesel. I'm guessing the newer models with the VM diesel will be totally different. So there we are, on the way to Wakefield from Essex where we live, merrily trotting along the motorway. All of a sudden the dashboard starts to chime repeatedly (as if i've left the headlights on and got out), the engine cuts out completely, and on the dashboard are the engine management light, and the red lightening bolt, with a reverse bracket either side (see attached photo). We coast to a stop onto the hard shoulder, and i try to restart the car. It turns over and over, but refuses to fire up. The missus gets on the phone to the RAC, and we're told there's roughly a two hour wait, so this gives me a bit of time to do some Googling before the patrol arrives. Now then, if you refer to the handbook, it clearly states (even in the diesel supplement) that the lightening bolt light indicates there is a fault with the "Electronic Throttle Control". This is utter nonsense. As it turns out, on the diesel models only, this light refers to a fault with either the Swirl Flap Motor, or the Turbo Actuator. Annoyingly this isnt listed in any of the handbooks that come with the car. Poor show Chrysler! Whenever you turn the ignition on in the car, you can see the arm of the turbo actuator raise up. So if this is the problem, then its very easy to diagnose. I tried this little test, and sure enough, the turbo actuator arm wasn't popping up when my wife turned the ignition on, so naturally I thought this was the problem. Sadly I was wrong. What had happened to my car was this.... Over time, the seal around the air intake on the front of the turbo degrades. This allows a small amount of oil to drip onto the swirl flap motor, which is situated directly below. (very poor design). This oil had eventually seeped inside the motor, causing it to short out. This short had instantly popped fuse number 15 under the bonnet, which in turn had caused the engine to shut down while doing 70mph to protect itself. I didn't have the handbook in the car with me sadly, so searching on the internet just have me fuse diagrams of the petrol models, which on those shows its for the injectors. Again as it turns out, fuse 15 in the front fuse box does completely different things on the diesel models. It protects the following.... A/C Clutch, A/C Pressure regulator, Crankcase Vent Heater, EGR Valve, Engine Control Module, Fuel Pump, Glow Plug Module, Swirl Flap Motor, Oxygen sensors.. So I replaced the blown fuse with a spare 20 amp, and the car fired straight up. It was now in limp mode, and showing the EML and Lightening light, but it was drive-able up to about 80 mph, albeit a bit slow getting there. By this time, the RAC man had arrived. Now there is nothing worse that someone interfering when a pro is at work, so when he arrived, I left him to it, and he plugged the diagnostics in, and it threw up a ton of errors all related to things connected to this fuse. All except the swirl flap motor. He was a bit confused at first, but then I mentioned that I think it might be the swirl flap motor. He hooked up all his testing gear to it, ran a load of tests, and sure enough confirmed to me that the motor was dead. He then cleared the ECU codes, started the car, and only then did it throw up a specific Swirl Flap related error. HE gave me some spare fuses, and after a quick road test, we were on our merry way albeit in limp mode. Now to fixing it. The cheapest place I could find to supply and fit a new motor quoted £575 plus VAT. The motor is just over £100, but the labour involved is a joke. Anything that is situated inside the VEE of the engine (Swirl Flap Motor, Oil Cooler) etc needs major open heart surgery to fix it. Annoyingly both the motor and the cooler seals have known faults, so they couldn't be in a worse place! If you fancy forking out all that money to have the motor replaced, then that is no doubt the best way in the long run, however there is a quick fix for £1.99 and YES it does work perfectly. Get yourself some 4K7 resistors off of ebay, they are £1.99 for 50. Remove the engine cover, then remove the intake pipe that runs from the airbox to the front of the turbo. Right below the turbo, you will see a black box. This is the offending motor. On the right of the motor is a multi plug held in with a grey clip. Remove the metal bracket above the plug, and pop the plug off. Grab a resistor, and bend the legs in such a way that they will fit snugly into the two centre holes in the plug. Theres 4 in total. Once you have put the resistor in, and you can confirm its in there properly. Tape it up with electrical tape so the resistor wont fall out. Replace the metal bracket, and the air intake pipe, leaving the plug sticking up so you can get to it again in the future if you need to. Then start up the car, and stand back in amazement as both the engine management light and the lightening bolt lights extinguish, and the car comes back out of limp mode. Take the car for a drive, and you will see that it drives as good as new. What you have done here, is fool the car into thinking the swirl flap motor is working again. WHen in fact its now disconnected. You shouldnt notice any difference in performance or fuel economy at all. The emissions may be up slightly when cold is all. So to summarise, if your car cuts out with the lightening bolt on. 1) Coast to a stop 2) Curse, swear, have a fag, but don't despair 3) Check fuse 15 in the front fuse box, and replace 4) Start the car and drive home in limp mode - The car will do upto 80mph 5) Order your resistors from Ebay, making sure they are the 4K7 type 6) Still use your car while you are waiting for them to be delivered, remembering that it wont pull away as quick as usual 7) Fit the resistor at the weekend in the rain 8) Stand back, chest puffed out, hands on hips, telling the neighbours you've just saved almost 700 quid :-)

Yes Nello, it is a Limited, cream leather interior, heated seats but not electric which I find strange, changed the cabin filter today the one that came out was FULL!!! huge sunroof which also was unexpected, I thought it was just a panoramic roof! My 500X returned 48mpg in town driving and Yes sport mode is entertaining, have you found the 'G' meter?? Sorry the interior photos are poor.

Hi, hopefully this car is going to be mine! The low mileage is due to it being a Guernsey car, so low miles but perhaps a bit more clutch abuse. I've put a deposit on it, just waiting now for the dealer to get a UK registration & MOT for it. I would say it hasn't seen many harsh winters and salty roads etc., however I suppose it has lived in a coastal environment as Guernsey is so small you can't really get away from the sea. I couldn't find any corrosion though, there's a tiny mark on the n/s/r bumper up where it meets the wing and signs of it being stood about (leaves & cobwebs around the under bonnet scuttle area etc) but other than that the exterior is lovely, the wheels & interior are pretty much immaculate. As a long time Lancia fan & owner of an original Delta this one will be getting the re-badge treatment to remove the C-word!

Electric Windows seem to be a bit of a bone of contention. Don't let a seller tell you "It's probably just a fuse" if one of your windows doesn't work, there are no fuses. I have spoken to a couple of other Voyager users and they say the same. Keep the window tracks oiled so there is no resistance for window going up and down. Seems once the tracks either end dry up, the motors slow down and that's when problems can start. I use some 3 in one oil, not WD40, and my once slow windows now nip up and down. Just a thought!!

You are right the handbrake does not auto tighten. there is a blanking grommet in the bottom of the rear disk back plate that allows access to the adjuster. with the wheel off the ground tighten each one until the wheel binds with the handbrake two clicks up. the hand brake on GV's is poor at the best of times so don't expect too much. The cable in the cabin should not need tightening and definitely shouldn't be used to adjust the brakes.

Hi, welcome Not sure if there is a buyer guide, but mechanically the car is similar to a Fiat Bravo II and both seem fairly reliable.The engines are used across a wide range of FCA products from Alfas to Fiat 500s and seem fairly robust and economical. The car is made in Italy but do not expect a thrill a minute Integrale experience, this Delta is more refined and almost an Italian Rover or Audi. The main issue is that people, even car buff do not have a clue what it is although passengers in mine seem quite impressed once inside. Have a search on Instagram for how good they do look inside and out. That 'identity crisis' does make the car hard to price. There are only 900 or so on British roads so some are priced on how they look which can be high (see the £4k one on ebay, looks great) or quite cheaply as there is no real demand. At auction they will typically sell for around £1500. All cars are around 8 years old so expect some wear although mine at 123k miles is holding up rather well. Budget £300 or so for a cambelt at least. Living with it is not a straight forward as Golf, indicator click is stupidly quiet, you have to fold the rear seat down to remove the parcel shelf as the tailgate is smaller than the shelf, no obvious place to put glasses or phone. The feedback from the road is set more toward isolation that the involvement of an Alfa, not as crisp and direct, but more refined. The radio is a let down, trim can be plasticy in places too. On the plus side the driving position is good, engines have decent poke, the body shape still looks crisp and modern and owners of similar sized Mercs, Audis and BMWs do not have a clue what has zoomed past them. Get a remap and take on bigger cars, readily available as the engines are Alfa/Fiat. Parts cheap too for the mechanical stuff, just don't damage the body or interior. The one pictured is a base spec with an even more unloved semi auto gearbox with high is miles, at auction it would have been around £1k, OK for basic transport with a good discount but if the autobox goes wrong few will know how to fix, and probably due a belt change. Now is a good time to get a Delta, market depressed, little demand, confused identity, but reliable basics, distinctive looks, nice colour combinations, smart interior, no signs of rust and prices rock bottom. Seek the best specced one you can find and haggle. What is there not to like!

Got home from the rig and the nice people at Swansea have written to me. So right now I am the proud first ever owner of AP12 VXC! Weirdly the V5 says 'first used elsewhere in the UK', which - if you've been following this - we know is B-S & is what caused all the faffing about in the first place; Guernsey isn't in the UK or EU. Never mind, tomorrow will transfer the GAS plate over & that is finally that!

My Saturday was full on....

Hi . I’m the lucky person who now owns Mikeys Delta. Just got home from collecting it .Mikey has maintained and looked after D3LTX. I have a file 2 inches thick listing everything he’s done .Really nice drive and a credit to him.

flip sake, thought it was just me. Just wasted half a bottle of aftershave.

Hi all, I managed to fix the issue and hope that it will help some of you in the future to save some stress and money. The problem was bad ground wire G300 that lives under the carpet next to the B pillars on each side of the car. You must remove plastic covers and lift the carpet, undo the wire and give it a good clean. I found this video for similar problem, that might help you to picture it. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZSEAVnWP5X0 Hopefully this is it and I wont have this problem any more.

Hi Sorry for loooooooooong time to answer. If you wont to go lowered on active susp. Just replace springs nad thats all. Dont touch anything on cpu. Replace spring and njoy http://i68.tinypic.com/2quhh5k.jpg http://i65.tinypic.com/2a5fapz.jpg http://i68.tinypic.com/15xpe6o.jpg

Just to confirm got my Delta services and MOT by my local indie. Sailed through MOT:) Sump plug and washer from mito from Alfa workshop was fine. Spark plugs were also right, car feels a lot better a lower revs. Glad I got it done, thanks for the advice chaps

Fixed at last! Got a new siren/control unit off eBay different part number but just the tone of the beep seems slightly different £80 as opposed to about £200 from Fiat, didn't want to risk £200 on something that may not have fixed it! The reason for failure of these units seems to be neither battery failure nor damp. The unit is sealed against damp but this has the side effect of holding in very small amounts of corrosive fumes from the charging of the batteries and this corrodes the circuit board. That's the theory I found on the net and seems plausible

May I add something here after readig it....Ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh F/n Helllllllllllllllllllllllllllllll....Sorry....

Thanks again everybody - such a knowledgeable forum!! The cars been running absolutely fine since the repair and my paranoia has also calmed down ha! So far so good x

Hopefully this will be of some use to someone if the same happens, which sadly I believe it a common thing . I've had the resistor in place for a week now, and its been working perfectly. About 300 miles covered faultlessly. It was playing on my mind about the whole thing being held together with electrical tape, so I decided to buy the ready made part from the chaps at www.custom300cshop.co.uk Its the second time Ive used them, and they are really helpful, with fast deliveries. The part I ordered was the swirl flap emulator http://www.custom300cshop.co.uk/chrysler300c_swirlportemulator.html Its basically a resistor fitted into a purpose made, and very high quality plastic casing, which fits perfectly into the swirl flap plug. This should take the worry out of the electrical tape melting or degrading over time. It was £40, which some may say is a lot for a bit of plastic, however the fact that they have had these specially made, they fit perfectly, and they are a damn sight cheaper than a new swirl flap motor, I think its good value for money. Pictures below if you fancy a look. Cheers Matt.

So garage have fitted 4 new injectors, and it so far so good. They have tested it and cannot replicate the cutting out. I have only driven it short distance, but it starts well (when previously it didn't) and it hasn't cut out, when previously it might have. If anything changes I will get back on here, but for anyone else who is experiencing poor starting and cutting out here is the order of events for me: Fuel FilterPressure relief valveFuel filter housing and wiring loomPressure sensor on fuel railInjector testingNew injectors My car has been renamed Triggers Broom!

https://www.parkers.co.uk/chrysler/delta/hatchback-2011/16-m-jet-sr-nav-5d/owner-reviews/20180112065355/?utm_campaign=parkers-owner-reviews&utm_source=publication-confirmation-email&utm_medium=email

This forum has proved indispensable for a Delta owner. I had the misfortune of a snapped passenger side spring coil, originals come in pairs with a hefty £300 price tag. I am going for an advice I got from the forum for a suspension lowering eipache kit been backed and shipped and hopefully by next week will be fitted OK. I will have surplus driver side and the 2 back ones old and bit rusty of course (11 reg) but can solve a problem and get a Delta back on the road. I can find some space in the garage or the attic to keep these in case a mate in the forum needs them, can ship for what it costs. Do you think we should set a spares thread....

Thank you for al your help I have hopefully now fixed the transmission relay problem code p0888 fingers crossed

Yesterday, I decided it was a good day to drain the transmission fluid and change the filter....warm and no wind (to blow dust up into the exposed under belly of the valve body). After 85,000 miles it probably needed it I bought a Mercedes NAG1 transmission kit a few weeks ago with 6 litres of ATF+4, a new filter and rubber gasket. I drained the oil via the transmission sump plug & after this had dripped almost dry, removed the sump & poured the rest of what was in the bottom of the sump into my big bowl. After pouring it out of my 'big bowl' into a 1 litre jug & then pouring it into an old oil can, I found that only 4 litres had come out . I had read that the usual drain is about 6-7 litres.....But have since read, that 4-5 litres is the norm for a partial oil drain. I guess that the torque converter keeps a good majority of the fluid. Anyway, cleaned up the inside of the sump & magnet, new gasket & exactly the same amount of fluid put in that came out & all is tickety-boo . I did buy an after market dipstick to check the level (had to break MB seal...boo-hoo for main dealers) & after a good warm up, the level is spot on

Hi, Have you changed the engine coolant temperature sensor (ECT)? You say that once warm it starts up fine. I was having the opposite problem... started fine when cold, then when hot it wouldn't fire up, just turned over and over. The ECT tells the Engine Management Unit whether the engine is hot or cold, then the EMU decides whether to go into cold start or hot start mode. If the ECT is knackered it will be giving the wrong information... it's like starting an old car without using the choke when cold... or using the choke when it's hot. The Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor is quite cheap, available from your local parts store, and is an easy swap (ten minutes). See if it works... it did for me. Open the hood, remove the plastic cover and the sensor is on the top of the right bank about half way down... see pic below.

In the past if you stuck something in a garage/barn for 40 years it would suddenly become rare and valuable, if it were actually worth something in the first place, it could then be worth quite a lot , and receive rose coloured praises from writers who actually never drove one in the first place. That said, I'm not sure how vehicles of today will fair in the future especially if say in another 40 years there's no such thing as petrol/diesel, or that if there is, it would be absolutely horrendous cost per litre. A while ago I bought a Ford Explorer and had it converted to LPG, it drove superbly was extremely reliable and did everything and more that a full size 4x4 could be expected to do. After 9 years and 80,000 the timing chain broke and ruined the engine (and people worry about timing belts). I could of rebuilt the engine, but at that age and mileage it really wasn't worth it, so it went to the great recycler in the sky, mainly because there were many 4x4 alternatives around, most giving as much performance and better economy that an old 'exploder'. However for me the point is that I'm unaware of any suitable replacement for my Stow n Go (as and when it gives up the ghost), hence I will keep mine going as long as is practicable. When it does die I'm not sure what its replacement will be, and I can't really think of any new or vintage which could even come close to it. What else can be used as a large comfortable car one minute, a van the next, and take a full load on a 600 mile trip at 80mph and still touch 30mpg ? 40 years ago you didn't worry much about car electrics as the bodywork was going to rust away long before that ever become a problem

OK guys, anyone following my Voyager problems will know my affection for the Maxi. Today I purchased one in reasonable condition. !976 with full history and historic status. I also purchased 3 weeks ago a 1991 Rover 214 sohc 8v carburettor model. They both have the same things in common. Muscle toning steering, windows etc, no central locking or immobiliser and above all else NO NAFF COMPUTER. Still waiting for some competent auto tech to fix my Voyager, in the mean time I am enjoying real motoring, and with all the things that's happened to me this year this touch of happy days is very welcome. Stay safe, regards Roy.

Well it's taken a while with the lockdown but today her mileage is finally out of the teens... Gutted

That is very kind, hopefully don't have to take you up on the offer ! (I'm in the East Midlands by the way (Old Leake, Boston), take the A52 to the ens of the Earth, when you arrive carry on another 25 miles.

It helps in confirming my worst fears.. The old girls OK at the moment but if something goes wrong then there's no dealer in sight and therefore diagnosing anything other than a flat tyre may prove interesting.....

I just took mine to Halfords where they charged me a minimal amount to install. It took five mins, they took care of the old battery too. Once fitted all the dash warning lights came on but disappeared after 20 secs & I was good to go- just had to change the date/time settings which was simple enough even for me. Paul.

Hi, I've recently purchased a Delta S-Series. I've been looking for a while. I live in Cornwall and there seem to be very few Deltas down in the South-West. I'd almost given up and this one popped up at an auction in Bruntingthorpe. It was the only S-Series I'd seen for sale so I went for it. I'm into Italian cars, I've got a couple of Alfas and a Lancia MonteCarlo so this one will be given the full Lancia treatment soon. Cheers Andrew

Just change Chrysler Delta coil springs. Fitted with no problems. KYB RH6389 rear KYB RH3908 front. Fits 100%

No More Nails Just a smudge - with leather being absorbant it will probably mark them for life but I'm never going to debadge it back so..................

Sammy it's always difficult to diagnose over the internet... but I'm assuming you're transfering the buttons over from the existing fascia? When I changed my headunit and changed the fascia for a piano black one, I remember having to unscrew the pcb board and take it all apart then re-assemble into to the new fascia. Is that what you're doing and they're still not fitting? That link also looks like a cheap aftermarket part? Maybe if you're doing as I did, then the part is the problem, not the buttons?

Hi guys. A cautionary tale that I hope will be of use. In a nutshell we discovered that our mechanic and very likely he had followed what previously had been done, had fitted the pad retaining spring ends in the wrong place. This resulted in the whole caliper feeling loose/floating about and wearing the pads at an angle overheating and cracking a piston. Very useful photos came up on google in next to no time. Cheers.

Big shoe Horn between underside of light and top of bumper will do the trick.

Well, going to see one tomorrow. 1.6MJ SR, 42k on a 12 plate, private sale.

Yes I just got one from eBay works a dream doing mine tomorrow will get oil over me if there is oil it loves me .

It can't as it'll be part of the car unless he cuts it out. You wouldn't do that as you'd be stuffed for fitting anything else. Whereas the scrappies should cut the loom out, then that way you could make a patch cable to plug into your existing loom, if that makes sense?

codes here

Great, glad to hear it @@Expoman That adds up to my thinking that this has a large list of problems that cause the same/similar symptoms hence being so tricky to pin down. I'm still getting bad starts so think there is more to be done so I'll get on with that in warmer weather. Did a lot of driving today, snow and -2 temperatures and no problems though. The non-return-valve idea was talked about, QinteQ mentioned it to me a few weeks back when we were having a catch up in his lads garage and sounds a sensible idea if you think that's the issue, though it's more of a sticking-plaster solution than finding the root cause. Also, anyone in the UK know where to source the fuel filter (rear edition beside tank) assembly so I can order one as thinking it's worth doing at some point.

How do we know that he doesn't ???? ;-) Like the Punto and power steering system failure.. usually follows a clutch change . . The engine earth is more of a culprit than the actual power steering Just cos he died after his breakfast, doesn't mean that it was the breakfast that killed him !!!

DRL ordered today, €220 delivered :-D

Hi, I recently upgraded my key with the one in the pictures bellow. For who is interested, the blank was £7 ( ebay) and the key to be cut £3 ( local asda) The picture named "gv key" I added it just to show how not to do it, it did not start the engine with the chip in that position. The chip needs to be as per picture named "gv key 2". What I also did was to glue a bit of paper under the chip so no connection is made between the chip and the remote's circuit board. Moreover, the panic button works, I hope I will never need it for its purpose... but is good when finding the car in a large parking lot. Hope it helps.

Thank you @@bignev and @@mikebh8 it just means she gets to boss me around officially now! ;-)

Rolling the car backwards was an inadvertently interesting comment to me. A Story I called the system design she-brakes. Back in the 'big block shooting brake' days when rich America was in the middle of a roads and housing boom new towns just off motorways were built with big wide boulevard's and the roads were deliberately sunk low so drives were up a slope to allow drainage from the property. There was a rash of insurance claims made for 2 1/2 ton cars rolling unattended backwards into traffic so the 'top hat' shoe was redesigned to grab the trailing rather than the leading edge - after all it's a parking brake design not a handbreak. This still exists as far as I'm aware to this day.

The part number would seem to be YY23BD1AA. Try a main dealer, they should be about £6 to £8 each. Or if a few of you got together we could get them from moparwholsaleparts.com in the States, just had a quick work out and even with delivery they would be around £8 each based on 4.

Did it!! Excellent video andyb2000 thanks! I found out that the thermostat I bought was actually mis-labelled in the database and was for an earlier voyager variant. I didn't fancy waiting for 2 weeks for delivery of the ebay thermostat that andy mentioned in his youtube notes so I did a little research on similar types. I picked up a thermostat for a 1992 Renault Clio 1.1 Engine code C1E700. It was about £8. It didn't have the same housing as the one Andy used, but the disc type. I had do do a fair bit of filing to reduce the diameter. It works a treat! Thanks all for your help.

Can we have a tab for lpg converted grand voyagers. To discuss problems, tips etc

Hi and WELCOME TO THE FORUM. 5w 30 fully synthetic oil is recommended for your 2.8. Alan