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Idle Smoke


brit644
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Searched on this, web is full of turbo to injector to glow plus etc etc etc

Starts great, revs to full no problem, pick up great, runs fine..No hesitations at all, idle revs sit where they should

Cold or warm starts the same, no smoke on start up to speak of.

Sit and idle ok...30 seconds smoke begins [light blue smells of diesel] Drive away and boot it, smoke clears and does not return again until it's idled for half minute.

 

I read a blog by vm specialist [or so he says] He remarked test everything. But, he says tips on these engines [to do with lube/oiling] on starting sit and wait for at least 30 secs, before switching off sit and wait 45 secs...more if long trip and hot weather or continuous fast driving.

Heck of a long piece...Goes into great detail about spindles, turbos, gears etc etc etc

One thing thought was funny. Some guy changed evertthing...even turbo over a 2 month period to no avail. Guy turned the primer 1/4 turn and felt pressure change...Instant cure

Is it true..no idea.

Anyway, any views on my smoke thingy...hope its glow as injectors are silly money although found bosch usa are $364 for 4....[in the Jeep Liberty there..not the town and country].

  tKS

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Tks for the note.

Couple years ago had the egr code...blanked for quick fix then went to USA for work. Bought egr solenoid [actually bought 5 as very cheap from dealer] as had a code for the solenoid too.

Changed therm, egr itself, rad and anything on the way in as therms are a big rip out to get to.

Car's run great since. However month ago fumes in cab, initially thought maybe webasto, digging in found egr pipe cracked around flanged joint. Noticed at this point smoke out the rear. Not sure how long it had been there as was disguised by the cracked egr pipe. Had that welded but then noticed smoke at the rear has gotten worse with each drive.

Cold light of day you realize in the cab smell was exhaust, out the rear is diesel smell...mainly.

Have read a myriad of experiences with exactly same symptoms, from turbo, ecu, glow plugs, primer, filter, injectors  etc etc.  Some have changed everything possible to find its something hardly related..even at a dealership. Mechanic is leaning to injector...but even performing a leak test wont give true picture...advice change all...but thats 1000 quid just for parts...

Like everybody I love the thing ..but theyre a pig to diagnose.

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Yep stuck EGR = too much exhaust recirc through engine = lots of smoke = big black smoke if gunned on set off

 

Difficult to see when driving but easy when sat idle,

 

You've blanked it before what do you have to lose as an experiment!! Just because the egr valve has been changed doesn't mean it can't soot up and stick.

 

Generally injectors would mean various characteristics - difficulty starting, poor fuel economy, overfueling at various parameters giving engine management light, amongst many others as you infer, but you say it drives great.

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Yeh, mechanic blanked egr as I say year afore last. Key dance showed code for egr solenoid. Could only find used on ebay so bought a few in USA last I was there. Cured it straight away.

I have the late 2007 model. Half way thru the year specs changed [some Euro thing] to have a sensor on the therm..which is sold separately. Luckily I gave vin as reg# gives wrong part #

'Electric' therm is different...as default it remains half closed not full open [had the often noted hill overheating problem]

Have had vehicle couple years, have changed most things as fortunate to work in USA quite a bit [am an aid worker]....and main dealer if given vin can get parts as this engine is in the Jeep liberty there.

I did check with all past owners, vehicle has 170k miles now....injectors havent been touched at all. Mechanic who I trust [he got front shock/springs parted in 90 secs  a feat] says leak test wont prove anything much, that they should be fully tested by injector shop and rebuilt where needed... 25 oer test nothing charged if ok, rebuilt then 90 quid. The week off road is not good right now.   

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