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Antifreeze


RichardM
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I've just replaced the antifreeze in my wagon... well not really me, had my friendly garage do it thank heaven. They had to flush it five times before it ran clear, apparently the first time it didn't so much run as glooped out. I knew it was bad as it looked like red mud in the reservoir (it's still stained reddish brown).

Anyway the reason I'm posting this is that I bought the HOAT antifreeze from a company called AGM - Polygard MIS16523 Green H-Oat Antifreeze. at £13.19 per five litres.  It seems to have comply with all the specs and It's made in the UK (Rule Britannia )

I must state I have no association with the distributor or the manufacturer (in fact I had never heard of them before searching the internet for HOAT antifreeze. I bought 2 x 5L and delivery was free! 

This is just for info - no endorsement yet but unless the temp drops below -39 or the radiator corrodes thru there's very little to validate it against. But it's the cheapest I could find that had all the specs and as I mentioned its UK made. (Oh and Graham, my friendly mechanic said, it looks like antifreeze, smells like antifreeze  therefore it must be antifreeze.) 

On the short runs I've made since everything appears tickety-boo, heater's good, warms up in a couple of miles, keeps a constant temperature just below half way on the gauge (don't know how many degrees this corresponds to - intend to try and calibrate it when the weather gets better.)

Specification Information:

  • Exceeds the requirements of: ASTM D3306, ASTM D 4985, AFNOR 15-601, VAG TL774-C, TMC RP329, MYU 5038, MAN 324NF, CaterpillarSEBU6250-12, Detroit Diesel 7SE 298, Mercedes Benz DBL 7700.20(325), Saab 690 1599, Scania TB1451, Cummins 14603, MTU: MTL 5048, BMW N 600 69.0, Volvo Car 1286083 Issue 002.
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Hoat I've always used. I get Comma 05 from amazon under £30 delivered and dilute with a gallon of distilled about a quid. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Comma-XHD5L-Xstream-Antifreeze-Concentrate/dp/B0048778U6

 

I've never, and never would backflush. The matrix is equally important. Burping is easy. Stat should keep it under half way temp. My 2.8 is now 15 years old no temp problems ever. Mine has a Webasto WaterTop but I've done the batteryMOD and inlineSTAT mod along with Screwfix lagging in front of RAD.

 

Congratulations, looking after your car gives it the best chance of looking after you. Best of luck.

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I have stuffed the grill with Screwfix lagging and it certainly makes a difference, Have got a Renault 890C thermostat in reserve but my thermostat appears to be working as per spec... if it aint broke..............

I have not done the battery mod, I did have to fit a new battery after buying the car but to date have not been stuck despite many many short (less than 2 miles) journeys. Occasionally she's a pig to start, I have to watch the glow plug light like a hawk, start immediately and keep cranking till she fires which can take a frighteningly long time.

The thermistor's readings are also part of the idle revs and emission  control systems (God bless software) Placing a 22K resistor in line with the thermistor appears to tell the computer that the engine bay is  20oC less than true. (assuming the thermistor is a NTC 3950 (this is the closest match I can find relative to the small data set in the ws manual)

Extrapolating the figures from the workshop manual and then restricting the data set to the relevant range gives the following; (sorry can't find out how to insert the graph)

(At 40C the ECU will think it's 2C, at 20/25 around -1C etc. (with 22K resistor inserted)., within this range the thermistor is fairly linear 

So my thoughts are there is going to be more diesel in the cylinders than is optimum.... Thoughts ????

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 more diesel in the cylinders

 

 

Reverse sounds the more likely. If you have the Lucas pump [above] just put your hand central behind RAD if you can get even one single pump fix LP first.

 

BatteryMOD, if  it ain't broke is the rule, but I've tested to 5+ years now. The original  22K Ω @ 1/2 watt further MOD was changed to  33K Ω @ 1/2 watt and get a consistent 14+ summer and 15+ winter. Chrysler has long used a logic module in the alternator to adjust the duty cycle, the 33K Ω @ 1/2 watt forces old school consistent voltage above I wanted with preferred annual summer/winter output protection I get.

 

Chrysler [like other makers with different systems] don't use an internal regulator and haven't since the 80's. Pulse modulation generated by the PCM was used to switch the duty cycle on/ff as required by GV's Puter, battery voltage/ load on engine/battery temp etc bump it high/+14 or low/-13 to keep battery charged towards 80%

 

Best of luck.

Edited by QinteQ
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My Antifreeze is something I need to address when the weather gets a bit better. Mine is reddish brown and can’t see the needle readings on my antifreeze tester. So for piece of mind I syphoned 5 litres out and replaced with 5 litres of holts 05 hoat to get me through the winter. My thermostat is working fine but like @@RichardM I have a Renault in-line thermostat in my toolbox just in case. 
As for the starting, I only have bother below 5 degrees C. And the it only takes a few more seconds to start than normal. (Must have some decent compression). I have found that all my glow plugs are duff, I have brought a new set, but again will wait for the better weather to change. 

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HiYa CRD28AUTO

 

CRD's with a good battery and good LP pressure will usually start without good glow plugs. Glow takes 1-2 minutes NOT the 3 seconds on the warning light.

 

 

https://www.ukcampsite.co.uk/articles/images/722_6.jpg

 

 

Changing glow plugs is always torment time wobble-end, one hardly ever gets tackled by garages - ditto many other things.

 

You seem to be in decent fettle, congratulations.

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The time the glow plugs are on varies on mine dependent on (1) the outside temp and (2) if I've just tried to start (they're still hot/warm), assume the magic computer system has something to do with this ? ... No way it'll start without them. Have thought about routing another feed direct from battery via hefty switch but will wait and see.

Diesel LP appears OK hand primer is solid, filter is new no water etc. etc.... Glow plugs were replaced by previous owner 4K, 12 months ago, my friendly garage checked the spill rate just after I bought the car, all injectors spot on. No problem with kick down goes like sh*t down a slide, no hesitation so who knows ?

Would like to plug in a magic diagnostic (live run) to see if anything turns up but no garage in the area - not even the ex Jeepy have the tools..... I just live (drive) in hope with a set of jump leads.

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I'm lucky I've owned 3. Gave one away, loaned best one out (UK garage registered full version) 8 years ago and kept tiny but perfectly formed x431 (grey) which also has all 4 areas of Chrysler codes including. All still diagnostic functional on my year.

 

Upgrading I would never do, I can buy another grey on 2020 for the same £UK I paid for the garage one. Upgrading either of the old two would cost 3-5 times that price and you never know what your getting. Twice I've driven many many miles at my own costs for demo's. Watching the horror in their face when I make them plug it into MY car .. .. live .. .. and drive off with my wedge intact.

 

Best of luck.

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Sorry forgot to mention this, 9 times out of ten (including cold mornings after two or three days standing idle the old girl starts after maybe 5 seconds. Occasionally, and for no discernable reason she gets the hump and requires multiple attempts of 20-30 seconds of grinding away....   I don't understand why, it's usually when the engine is warm maybe I've travelled 20 miles and parked up for 6 hours or I've driven 8 miles and parked up for 10 minutes.... no logic that I can discern. Still I love the old bus, sometimes car, mostly van but being 6'5" (and a bit) it's the most comfortable PC I've driven .. and yes another inch or two of legroom would be nice and being able to raise the steering wheel a bit mere AND the blxxdy brake pedal is so far to the left that I sometimes run out of brake travel due to my size 11s getting stuck under it! Oh must mention the hernia free seating compared to my old Galaxy, and it gives me more room in my garage (not for the car just freedom from seats, I would love a garage big enough to park the bus but would be lucky to get an (old style) Mini in mine.

Regards and joy in these days of self imposed exile!

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Well my ori was a full OBD2 OBDII EOBD Auto Full System Diagnostic Scanner Code Reader on winCE. Tiny little thing battery only haven't seen one for sale for a decade.

 

The apparently upgraded 5 expressed as V+ are available but I have zero evidence of their codes. My ori had all 4 ODB areas including the 'hens teeth' area of Chryslers own info and did have live data. I found live data reliable read at the time and unreliable when saved and read later - this I assume is lack of (add a data card) onboard memory.

 

I've tested two super grey sellers (at my expense) by making them plug my new set into my odb port.and found them not to work. Smile, listen politely to their protestation and drive off wedge intact - I'd never buy blind without an actual test.

 

Many protocols on my MK4 have changed over the years and new ones invented. A new[er] car on a new[er] diagnostic scanner might well work but not in my 04-07 Mk case. Hope this info helps.

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Ah Grantham, just bordering on civilization I believe. 1 pub, and two more lamp posts than us, the one we have hasn't worked for two years. Spent the 80's out of the country (S.E. Asia), I do remember the seventies though, the early parts through a slight alcoholic haze, great music and a 1600E resprayed a violent VW :) green.

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Aye and purple caravans, curtains, carpets. But then I found out about proper sausage/Haslet and other offal tasties. Was gonna whack on one of the locals on my first visits when a bloke in a club called me a duck. Then family explained a "me-duck" and indeed everyone used it for both genders. Salt of the earth, good top people, loved my visits.

 

You take care my friend, best of luck.

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