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Ilink 400 Diagnostic Scanner


RichardM
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Morning all.

Has anyone any experience with this tool (Dodge-Jeep-Chrysler FULL-SYSTEM DIAGNOSTIC SCANNER CODE READER ILINK400 ABS SRS SAS CKP TPMS ECU SIR BI-DIRECTIONAL OE-LEVEL SCAN TOOL)

 

I read about it on the US Chrysler site and it appears to be a very useful tool, BUT I don't know if it works with the 2.8 CRD i.e. diagnostics relating to the diesel engine.

 

​One member of this site (LEW306RED) had some correspondence on the US site  but don't know if he's still active here, and too new to know how to contact him.

 

Have sent an email to the manufacturers - they're Chinese and its Gong Hei Fat Choy  恭喜发财 at the moment so don't know when / if they will reply .

 

Have no known faults on the old girl at present but belt and braces.. ( the reader's only a tad over a ton so will be worth a punt if....

 

 

 

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I actually own a ILink400 but have not yet brought the Chrysler module. I have the VAG and Vauxhall modules on it. It is a excellent diagnostic tool for the money and allows you to perform most dealer level adaptions. I have used it on many cars including my current Golf v6 4motion 2.8, also Audi TT 3.2. I have plugged it into my Grand Voyager and it does scan and delete codes out the box, but you would have to buy the Chrysler software module open up its full potential. 

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Thanks for the replies guys. The function list covers the GV inc 2007 (what the functions mean is double Dutch or Chinese to me...but it's good to know (1) it's a reputable piece of kit and (2) it knows (or can be taught) what a GV is (Chrysler module)

I have had a reply from the manufacturers (surprise, surprise. They appear unaware of the CRD engine. I understand there are other software house that provide modules for various readers so will carry on investigation.

The main reason (excuse to her who rules), is that my friendly garage can't run a live pressure test on the engine with their (very expensive) reader and I would like to confirm whether there is any problem with pressure drops. Since fitting new Red Top and a service she appears great EXCEPT sometimes (rarely) and for no discernable reason she takes the hump and takes a long time on the starter before she kicks in. It wouldn't be a problem (and so far it hasn't been for me) except my job sometimes has me driving   a mile to a  site, six miles to the electrical wholesaler, back to site etc etc which gives the battery no chance to fully recharge.

Thanks to you both for the info, will keep you informed of progress (If any)...

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GV's do not like AGM batteries and the Optima is AGM. If memory serves me Chrysler invented 'on alternator logic' as long as the 80's and still use similar set ups of pulse-width modulated (PWM) voltage regulation now.

 

Red Tops are a straight swap big clob starter output, I decided not to use about 6 months after their very successful release because worldwide rhumor at the time said the quality had gone down the toilet, this aH charge duration is usually overcome by run time. In my case not overcome because of what I describe as "lifestyle" or too short too infrequent run time. This time frame coincided with the world and mama Mercel banning the previous virgin lead in SLI batteries and the abortion that is a % of scrapyard lead recycling for the green brigade in the EU.

 

BCM/IPM/button thermocouple under battery sends.uninelligible AGM control info to logic in alternator. I bought an F21 AGM and had charge rate problems everafter. It took me five years to evidence the FACT that the F21 manufactured two identical ID numbers one was AGM/grey the other SLI/black and I have photographic evidence of this.

 

So we all make mistakes. That's what forums are for .. .. to learn from each other. Best of luck.

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See here : https://www.babybmw.net/viewtopic.php?t=81439&start=15

 

I bought one of these BA5 battery testers about 10 years ago. It correctly reported the F21 as an AGM but of course the GV can NOT deal with AGM. The BA7 can not arbitrarily call it by any other type so DO NOT buy one:: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Clore-Automotive-BA5-100-1200-Electronic/dp/B0017R5EQK

 

I bought a much more up to date battery tester which does much much more including arbitrarily calling the battery an SLI, it was this one : https://www.amazon.co.uk/s?k=outul+KONNWEI+KW210+12V+Automotive+Car+Battery+Tester+Digital+Multi+Language+Analyzer+Tester+Tool&ref=nb_sb_noss

Edited by QinteQ
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