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Cutting Out Under Load....fuel Starvation? New Member


GavinTheVoyager
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Hello all

 

I'd be grateful if I could pick your collective brains in the hope of solving a problem on my 2007 2.8 diesel Voyager. The problems have emerged in the last few months, and seems to be getting worse, as follows:

 

Firstly, the car was initially hard to start from cold. To try and solve this I changed the glow plugs and the air filter which hasn't made a jot of difference sadly! In addition, the car cuts out under load after heavy acceleration, i.e. you put your foot down hard, the revs rise, the car accelerates then cuts out after a few seconds. It then takes lots of engine cranking to re-start.

 

I've changed the fuel filter at the front of the car and primed the filter/ system using the manual pump. Despite what YouTube would suggest, it doesn't appear to have a rear filter. I've bled the high pressure system by cracking off the injectors with the engine running.

 

None of these have cured the problem and sadly I've run out of ideas.

 

I wonder if anyone can help.....

 

 

Yours desperately

 

 

Gavin 

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On my 07  2.8 I changed the sensor underneath the alternator it's held on with 3 star bolts  I think they are T15 or T25 that sensor can give you trouble like that but make sure your filter is tight as when I did mine it was lose and the filter housing can get hair cracks hope it helps. Jeff

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Cuts out but has trouble starting...Must be fuel related then, same as on not starting from cold easily. So either a fuel injector leaking too much, or all leaking just about too much and one says I've had enough. Leakage test here required. Or cheaper alternative is might only be Pressure sensor or bypass pressure valve. 

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I have a similar problem with my 2006 2.8crd voyager, if there was a crack in the filter/housing surely there would be fuel leaking from it?

 Possibly, but it's my understanding any fuel leak would be tiny and probably end up in the electrical plug, causing it to burn out.

 

Cheapest go to for me has always been the fuel filter. Has it been changed or off recently? If it has, remove and refit it. 

If it hasn't, change it. 

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Hi!

As a new member here i'm pleased to see all the tips and advices to solve all occurring failures on  the 2,8 crd models IV'th generation. I have a 2005 GV 2,8 crd 220.000 km. 

 

I've got a stalling issue when  accelerating slightly. Don't ever reach 2000 rpm .

First i've changed the pressure sensor on  the HP pump,  then  the MAF-sensor which didn't have any elctronics in it at all. 

The diesel filter is replaced and tightened.

 

Engine still cutting out!

 

 

Then  put a see-through plastic diesel pipe to check for air bubbles from  the diesel filter housing to the HP pump.

 

This, with the help from  my wife, showed a lot of air bubbles at startup and som  minor bubbles when  i provoced a cut out in  the garage. Easy to do depressing brake pedal...

 

Question: Can  these large air bubbles at start up still be there and cause the engine cutting out when more fuel is needed for acceleration??

 

Will order new filter assembly with heater as soon  as possible.

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Software or LP fuel system usual starting point.

 

Lucas mechanical hand pump on UK version about mid-radiator position. Push button, if it needs more than 1 push you have leak back or air in or '0' ring on diesel filter issues. The HP pump is only after after efficient LP supply to it.

 

Software, test it can and does 'lose' it's brain. It's a crude PCi BUS, pull NEG cable for 20 minutes then replace it you will hear a series of tests as each PCI instruction is 'pinged' and registered as good or bad in the BCM. I've no idea on American coding of radio but EU code is written to the BCM and never lost.

 

Need more .. .. ask .. .. best of luck!

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Problem solved!!

In my case, a 2005 GV 2,8 crd gradually pulled weaker and weaker over a year time or so. Finally it did not start at all. All relevant sensors replaced or cleaned, including diesel filter housing, map sensor, fuel pressure sensor on rail and fuel pressure regulator on the high pressure fuel pump in front. No rear fuel pump on this model.

That left me with the fuel pump itself. Therefore replaced timing belt, water pump and thermostat while at it. The EGR got a cleanup, but was not so bad.

The pump was then handed over to a diesel mechanic that found two out of three return valves were stuck, that is: only 1/3 of fuel volume and pressure reached the injectors. THIS CAUSES STALLING UNNDER LOAD AND PROBLEMS STARTING IT. TYPICAL PROBLEM ON THIS FORUM.

A lot of work, but after 230.000 km the fuel pump usually needs renewal or service.

My problem solved, but lots of frustration along. And...too many months in my garage...thanks tu Covid-19 work from home has been the rule fram april here in Norway so did not need the car so badly this periode.

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Wonderfall..Great..Well at least we got a return on this fault. Pity that before repairing fuel pump you didn't try the other parts that were also replaced. Rail sensor, MAP, diesel filter housing, rail pressure regulator (was it ?). These have all been found to be culprits..
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Yes, should have tested more parts before replacing them. That's true. Ebay is rather cheap...My MAP sensor was actually completely emmpty so needed replacing. The overall issue was the fuel pump though. Glad it turned out well.

Fault codes are somewhat unspecified so when it comes to fuel pump, pressure and injectors there are a number of possible solutions. This forum is very handy in ways of adressing the problem issues, but most of us are diy-guys. Some are experts and we should be glad for them sharing their knowledge.

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