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New Radiator Needed, Is This One Ok?


Liam89
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So on top of all the issues my cars had recently today I’ve noticed a leak which I think is the radiator. I’ve found this one on eBay and think it’s the right one but there always seems so many variations! Car is a 2007 2.8crd auto and the rad I’ve found is here. https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F272858499302

 

Many thanks

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How many times should I flush do you think? Just do it until the water is clear? Also can I use RODI water instead of distilled? You say only front flush never back flush I assume I would just drain from the rad, re fill with water, drive with heater on, then drain that off and repeat?

I feel luck is no where to be seen with this car at the moment!

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Alloy corrodes so these rads don't silt up but the alloy particulates form a solid clump blocking the RAD and often the STAT, the STAT however is designed to always stick in the 'open' position.

 

The solid matter in mine was probably the use of non-HOAT and not using distilled water, so no recommend inhibitors.

 

I did mine old school .. .. ..

 

- car running, heater full belt on manual not e-setting

- switch engine off

- remove cap from expansion bottle, insert garden hose

- slack off bottom hose a little

- switch engine on, heater full belt on manual not e-setting

- regulate the clean water in speed [expansion bottle] to the [bottom hose] dirty water out

- drink coffee

- when the rad & matrix is fully clear, engine off, allow 10 pints [ish] to drain from the bottom hose

- clamp the bottom hose, fill with - a gallon of hoat and a gallon of distilled

- burp and top up the expansion bottle

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That's what I did, I took my time, let the hose do the work. I then turned the engine off and dropped 2x5 litres of now clean water out of the RAD into a paint bucket and replace that with HOAT and distilled.

 

Engine on matrix open get it hot let it 'burp' [and make sure it does].

 

Most of us on these forums have GV's that are 10+ years old. Most of us for 7+ years have gone Indi / or / DIY and most indi's use learner trainees who use any / all $hite cheap fluids.

 

So I've tried hard to tightly control my WAV-GV remaining (reliability) lifespan.

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You’ve been so much help the last few days mate I really appreciate all your help I really do. One more thing though when you say burp what do you mean? Wit the heater on full you’ll hear it make a burp noise?

 

Your welcome we all use the huge repository of specific knowledge on forums - that's how we all learn.

 

Burp like your baby did, -  it just means get the wind [air] out. Luckily we owners of GV's don' t need to use bleed valves, it will do it naturally if you do what I said in #11. When your happy its done and topped up to the line take it for a ride while its hot and 'prove' it does not leak cooling any fluid.

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Morning QinteQ, I’ve now flushed around 30l and it’s still coming out a rusty orange colour which I believe is from using kseal in the past. I’ve not added coolant yet because It isn’t clear. Will it ever become actually clear do you think? I don’t want to add the new coolant until I’m certain that it’s got no other coolant in. Should I just keep flushing? I’m using distilled water for all flushes as our water area is very hard and I don’t want limescae build up in the system. Edited by Liam89
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Hiya pal, 

Just use the tap water for the flushing as it's coming out again.

 

Follow our fellow member QinteQ's list in #7, not "fill run drain fill" steps it'll keep contaminating whatever goes in for absolutely ages.

 

Start off I suppose if you're worried with the bottom hose loose, with water coming out, and put a garden hose in the expansion bottle and keep it flowing through. If it gets fairly clear then run the engine briefly to circulate, then repeat.

 

Then try to follow QinteQ's list. It will work loads better.

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The problem I have is no easy way of using a hose and my neighbour complains about the fumes which I understand but I need to just get this done now. Should I have the bottom pipe loose so water is just leaking out around it or just have the drain on the radiator open at the bottom?
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HOAT + distilled water I said was for the last FINAL fill AFTER the tap-water is clean, the matrix is open, heat to full belt, header tank cap off - to 'burp' any air out of your now clean 'beat practice' cooling service, check all hoses etc for leaks and take it for a local (ISH) run WITH a spare "just in case" gallon of get-me-home water.

 

Now I did not know you had used 'snake oil-voodoo' crap additives and that worries me. Just do as young nev says and see where it goes for you M8.

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I got it running clean by that method this afternoon, filled with water again took for a short run and it came out dirty again. No where near as bad as previously though. I guess I’ll keep going with it for as long as I can flushing it with water and driving it short journeys then flush again etc till I see a good improvement.

I didn’t but a garage that I used to take the car to did (k seal) and I guess that’s what I’m now seeing coming out of the car.

Oh also I’ve got that webasto heater. Will that flush through even if the light isn’t on? Or does water only flow through it when the light is on?

Hopefully this is nearly done though! Thanks again all of you!

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