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2008 Crd Limited - No Start


karmannski
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Ok Got this MK5 2.8 Limited from 2008

 

Problem:

Does not start. 

 

Description

I put new starter, as the old was useless, it turns as long as the power is provided by battery. 

Need to test Fuel pump, relays, fuse, pressure valve etc.

 

 

 

Has somebody got here fuse box description, and Fuel pump Diagram? 

 

 

Any tips? 

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Engine Cover is covered in fuel so I assume that one of the return lines is leaking. 

got to inspect Fuel Filter Prime it etc

 

I can hear single Bang! coming from the back  when I turn ignition (like a book that fell of the shelf) not sure if that is right. 

 

I'm going to diagnose it tomorrow. 

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Fuel under emgine cover is likely either injector retufns or high pressure linevfeeding the injectors... if air gets trapped lines all the way to the tank will be empty as fuel will travel back. You can try putting ignition on and off five times or so to make intank pump to push as much as possible( as more fuel in the tank as possible also helps), after you can try some diesel easy start to make it fire up, once started pay atention whee is gettjng fuel out, injector returns or high pressure pipes from common rail to injectors. Those pipes are a pig as they are ment to hold a lot of pressure and knce removed and refitted should be replaced as mostof tjme they will not create a seal to withstand that high feed pressure.
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Thanks bro

 

I noticed that there in no fuel going in to my rail at all.

I have disconnected one of the Rile-to Inj pipes - turned the engine few times and no fuel at all had showed up in the high pressure rail.

 

All I hear when I turn the key is the bang! from the tank. Could it be trapped air or bad fuel pump?

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You could check the pump really,did not look to see if it has a fuse, but normally if you would get it on ramps or in a silent place and have some one putting key in ignition on while you are close to the fuel filer you should here it acting for few sec. Is any diesel on the 2 pipes that go over the cambelt cover? On is feed and one is return. Disconect them put a container under and put ignition on if you get diesel the in tank pump is pushing fuel to the high pressure injection pump. Take it from there first and eliminate the rear of the car. Common rail pressure is achieved during crank.
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Do you know with relay/fuse is for the fuel pump bro? It will help me a lot.

I'm about to drop the tank etc.

 

I have disconnected one of the high pressure pipes (rail to inj) and it was dry there so I assume that fuel is not getting to the engine from the tank.

I could not hear any buzzing from the tank while my mate was putting ignition on, all I heard was single BANG! from the tank every time you turn ignition ON.

 

btw. to empty tank on the MK5 Voyager you must have a very thin hose ~5mm as it is not possible to put normal size hose through the hole (it has got crossed plastics not like old MK4 where you can fit 1inch hose in and suck all diesel out in 5 min)

 

 

Karmannski

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Ok here is the info i have, bare in mind i have not done this but this is from Chrysler workshop manual.

 

STANDARD PROCEDURE - DRAINING FUEL TANK


 

WARNING: Eliminate any sources of sparks or open flame near the work area, and do not smoke when the fuel system is open.

1. Disconnect negative battery cable.
2. Remove fuel fill cap.
3. Raise and support vehicle.
4. Remove end of the fuel fill hose clamp (1) at the top of the fuel fill tube.
5. Route a drain hose down into the fuel fill hose opening. There may be a one-way check valve installed into the opening.
6. Drain fuel tank using an approved diesel fuel draining and storage tank. 

 

fuel tank removal:

REMOVAL

WARNING: Pressurized diesel fuel can cause severe personal injury. Always turn the ignition off, and wait at least 30 seconds before servicing any part of the fuel system.

1. Remove fuel cap.
2. If necessary, drain the fuel tank (Refer to 14 - FUEL SYSTEM/FUEL DELIVERY - STANDARD PROCEDURE - DRAINING FUEL TANK).
 

3. Remove hose clamp (2) and remove fuel fill hose from fuel tank.
 

4. Disconnect fuel pump electrical connector (1) from body harness inline connector.
 

5. Disconnect fuel line quick connect fittings (3) and (4) evaporator hoses (1) and (2).
 

WARNING: Support fuel tank with a transmission jack or equivalent. Use straps to secure the fuel tank to the jack. Failure to properly support and secure the fuel tank during removal may cause fuel to spill or fuel tank to fall from jack assembly.

6. Remove fuel tank strap bolts (1) and straps (1).
7. Lower the fuel tank.
8. Transfer fuel into an approved fuel storage container. 

 

fuel delivery pump removal:

 

1. The 2.8L diesel fuel pump module (9) is located on the top of fuel tank.
2. Drain and remove fuel tank
(Refer to 14 - FUEL SYSTEM/FUEL DELIVERY - DIESEL/FUEL TANK - REMOVAL).
3. Note rotational position of module before attempting removal. An indexing arrow is located on top of module for this purpose.
 

4. Position special Lockring Remover/Installer tool 9340 into notches on outside edge of lockring (8).
5. Install 1/2 inch drive breaker bar to special Lockring Remover/Installer tool 9340.
6. Rotate breaker bar counter-clockwise to remove lockring.
7. Remove lockring (8).

8. Remove module (9) from fuel tank. Be careful not to bend float arm while removing. 

 

now i hope this helps:

 

http://i1310.photobucket.com/albums/s658/SpAwNtoHell/fuel%20relay_zpswdwe0t4k.jpg

 

m25 is the fuse for in tank fuel pump

 

http://i1310.photobucket.com/albums/s658/SpAwNtoHell/integ%20power%20module_zpst93j9rty.jpg

 

and here is the diagram: 

 

http://i1310.photobucket.com/albums/s658/SpAwNtoHell/integ%20power%20module%20sch_zpsxoa91qcu.jpg

 

i hope i do not need to do  a pump change on this car looks like a right mess getting it out, getting the diesel out and the tank out... to much precaution need to be taken...

 

Let mne know if i can get you more info.

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I will, but when i get home, tho those are in 1080p, you can see them on photobucket also. So first you want to see if you get power through the relay and fuse to the pump, after use a external feed on the pump... Are any details you would need for me to look up?

 

Ps will look better on a desktop computer or laptop, on mobile phones and tablet...look crap

Edited by SpAwNtoHell
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ok, my fuse box is different - so I assume that relay is located in different place.  

 

Also I came across some YouTubers that are introducing fuel relay kit made by Mopar (some models had a recall) 

 

Part number CBWPR091AA

 

But was this kit made only for petrol engine or diesels too?

 

here is what my fuse box looks like. 

post-1856-0-04924600-1537628464_thumb.jpg

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this are the locking, checking tools:

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ENGINE-CRANK-LOCKING-TIMING-FOR-JEEP-2-8-CRD-2008-2011-ENS-ENGINE-VM9991-VM9992-/181718476336?hash=item2a4f43e630

 

http://i1310.photobucket.com/albums/s658/SpAwNtoHell/locking%20tools_zpsvpmei7av.jpg

 

http://i1310.photobucket.com/albums/s658/SpAwNtoHell/locking%20tools-2_zpsropnyntg.jpg

 

and this is the belt kit:

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Timing-Belt-KIT-Chrysler-Grand-Voyager-RT-2-8CRD-2008-2015-EEP-RT-001A/321809186978?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

 

genuine vm motori kit is also done by gates, but does not come with that circled bit. I could not locate a part number for it, but is fitted tight. The centre of it is soft it has like a washer reinforcement on the inside towards exhaust cam

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Thanks a lot for all PDF and pro advise.

 

Ok just as a update for the purpose of this forum.

 

I managed to diagnose the engine : and one code came out P0336 - Crank position sensor

 

After chatting with @@SpAwNtoHell and his expertise backed up by Chrysler manual and other useful programs that he has - It may be the reason why the fuel (from tank) goes to the high pressure pump but does not go from there to the fuel rail at all - as the sensor (broken sensor) does not tell the main ECU that crank is turning so there is no point for the fuel pump (high pressure pump run by cambelt) to do anything.  So it might be that with I hope - or the bad timing with I will test if this will not give any positive results.

 

 

Will carry on

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Good news :)

 

It was Crankshaft reluctor ring that was damaged. 

So crank sensor could not read any signals from it that crank is turning. 

 

Gearbox had to go out and the flywheel - and it sat just behind it. 

 

Started first time, 

 

No must service it and take it thru MOT. 

 

 

post-1856-0-55732900-1539699992_thumb.jpg

Edited by karmannski
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I have a similar problem, I can not start the car, the engine went about 8-10 s. at 4500 rpm and off, I'm changing the sensor on the crankshaft, the problem remained, how do I find out if the ring is damaged? it is visible ?

 

Good news :)

 

It was Crankshaft reluctor ring that was damaged. 

So crank sensor could not read any signals from it that crank is turning. 

 

Gearbox had to go out and the flywheel - and it sat just behind it. 

 

Started first time, 

 

No must service it and take it thru MOT. 

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