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Fuel Heater Fuse.


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#1 frogland

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Posted 22 February 2018 - 08:49 AM

I've just noticed that the fuel heater fuse is missing,i've put a new one in.
When i got the the car the fuel heater electrical plug that connects to the bottom of the fuel filter wasn't connected ?
Could there be a reason for this ? what would the consequences be on fuelling?
The fuel filter housing is in good condition there are no signs of leakage or cracks.

#2 soupstone

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Posted 22 February 2018 - 10:03 AM

Have a look at post #40 and read on from there. Andy has found the fuse and relay missing from his.
 

http://www.chryslerf...-25k-rpm/page-2


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#3 frogland

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Posted 22 February 2018 - 02:11 PM

The new fuse blew straight away so I presume it's the same problem as Andy's.
Is it the cause of my low fuel pressure woes ? I can't be sure.

#4 andyb2000

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Posted 23 February 2018 - 12:35 PM

Hi,

Sorry was away a few days (almost 1,000 miles added to the GV and no issues with cutting out I'm pleased to say).

 

Yes, I found the same thing, the heater was disconnected, when tested/reconnected it was a dead short, looks like it's in the wiring loom somewhere up behind the glovebox as it passes between outer and inner bodywork, I've not yet traced it as I simply cut it back under the carpet and wired it up elsewhere, happy to give details if you need it.

 

In terms of my cutting out, no I don't think it was ultimately the issue, though may have been one of many combined together causing me issues. Unless you have problems I'd not worry about it as also cannot see it making a huge difference.


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#5 blackvelvet

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Posted 26 February 2018 - 09:44 PM

I just got this problem too.

Drove from Wales to Bolton on Fri.

Saturday morning the car started, ran for a few seconds then stalled.

The fuse for the fuel heater had blown. Unfortunately, no tools.

I called the AA they somehow got the car running, and I used it all day Sat.

Sunday morning the same issue as above. Fuse blown.

Called the AA again but this time the guy couldn't start the car, the fuse kept blowing.

I guess the fuel heater wiring has a short circuit.

I'm stuck in Bolton for exams and no Chrysler.

I have a mobile electrical guy coming tomorrow.

If he finds the fault, I will post it.

Meanwhile if anyone can shed a light on this problem it will be a great help.

I've printed Andy's post for the auto electrician.



#6 andyb2000

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Posted 27 February 2018 - 02:05 PM

OK, yours sounds slightly different, the fact that it was working makes me think the fuel filter housing is at fault here and damaged causing the fuse to blow (short) and your starting/cut-out problems.

 

Hopefully it's not the same problem as the wiring loom damage is in a difficult place on mine to locate. Get your electrician to check from the connector underneath into the fuel filter assembly, see if its shorting into the fuel filter assembly or on the wiring run back to the battery. Hopefully it'll be the filter assembly in which case it needs replacing.

 

I'd not be 100% that its the fuel heater causing your cut-out/non-running, as if the heater has fused/got damaged in the filter assembly it normally means the casing is cracked/damaged and will be leaking air, causing air in the fuel lines.

 

Good luck and remember to report back!



#7 blackvelvet

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Posted 28 February 2018 - 02:25 PM

Hi everyone.

My problem was an easy one as far as the fuse is concerned.

The fuel heater had been disconnected and the cable were wrapped in insulation tape, then pushed up behind the radiator.

The tape had rotted off and the cable was shorting on the chassis.

  The fuel heater fuse is also the fuel pump fuse.

Now that that is sorted. the car still won,t start without a blast of easystart.

All the turning over has also flattened the battery.

I just went out and purchased a new bigger battery, I will now have to do some surgery to make the battery fit the tray.

I am hoping the fuel line has an air lock,

i will know tonight. when I get home.



#8 frogland

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Posted 28 February 2018 - 04:46 PM

my fuel pressure starting problems have improved dramatically since I stuck a big Battery in,I had to chop the tray and it's a tight fit but worthwhile. I'll be doing the button mod as well.

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#9 QinteQ

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Posted 28 February 2018 - 05:57 PM

F18, heckish goodly kit.



#10 blackvelvet

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Posted 28 February 2018 - 07:41 PM

Got home. The car started using easystart, stumbled about for a bit then it warmed up and ran OK.

I think the fuel may have been air locked, and the battery didn't have enough to start in the cold.

I am in Bolton at the moment and it is freezing.

After using the car for half an hour, I left it to cool down. 2 hours later I went to it, there was ice on the windows and the doors were stuck. I know other people have got worse weather, but i have never been this cold for years.

Took a few turns but it started. the new battery is priceless.

I am guessing the car has a cold start issue.

Does anyone know if it has a glow plug relay?.... I cant believe all the glows have failed at the same time.

This has been a comedy of errors. The lesson learned is don't assume it is only one problem.

These vehicles need a good battery. I have found a guy on my doorstep in Abergele, Tayma Batteries,  he sells American batteries, not cheap, but they will definately be up to the job.  I am convinced that most starting problems are battery related, even if the battery appears to be good. I hope to use the car tomorrow and it will probably be easystart, it's freezing here.

What I have learned about the fuel heater fuse is, it also powers the fuel pump in the tank.


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#11 frogland

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Posted 28 February 2018 - 09:34 PM

I think one of these is glow plug relay not sure which.

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#12 blackvelvet

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Posted 01 March 2018 - 07:46 AM

Thanx for that frog.

Here is somthing that may be of interest to anyone having elec problems.

I am going to order one when i get back home....£170 on Amazon

 

Power Probe ECT2000 Short Open Circuit Detector

#13 QinteQ

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Posted 01 March 2018 - 02:34 PM

Glow plus light goes out in seconds but its active for a full 10 seconds + - use all of them. The LHS glow plug as you stand at the radiator is a pig to change and is usually never not tackled - problem. Third relay from the LHS as you stand at the radiator.



#14 frogland

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Posted 01 March 2018 - 05:58 PM

sorry to deviate slightly but whilst we're on the subject of relays could anyone tell me what this one is for ?
Its down by the side of the battery.

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#15 soupstone

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Posted 01 March 2018 - 07:06 PM

Glow plus light goes out in seconds but its active for a full 10 seconds + - use all of them. The LHS glow plug as you stand at the radiator is a pig to change and is usually never not tackled - problem. Third relay from the LHS as you stand at the radiator.

 Alternator chucked it last week, wish I'd had a glowplug handy as it would have been easy. 
If I ever do them, the alternator will be coming out. 


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#16 blackvelvet

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Posted 02 March 2018 - 12:16 AM

I watched Andy's youtube vid on glowplug removal.

I also watched autoshaman vid, both seemed quite simple...... arkwardness notwithstanding.

Has anyone ever had a glowplug shear off and is it common ?

I'm guessing my coldstart is glowplugs, because easystart works well.



#17 andyb2000

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Posted 06 March 2018 - 03:54 PM

Hi @blackvelvet

I too wondered about the glowplugs shearing off, but it all depends on how much you push it when trying to remove them. From what I learnt, most of them are at garages, reason for shearing them? Time. They don't have the time to go slowly, wait, have a cuppa inbetween, etc.

 

The more time you give yourself to do the job, the better job you'll do and less likely to damage. I really didn't find them to have a lot of force for removal, of course each one can be different.

Good luck with it.



#18 andyb2000

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Posted 06 March 2018 - 03:55 PM

PS, I just did a video covering all of the cut-out problems and points of interest, including the Fuel heater, might be of use:

https://www.patreon....rand-2-17356742






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