Power Loss Hard Acceleration 0.9 Twin Air Auto

[Stellatus]

Hello 

 

Just bought a Chrysler Ypsilon 2012 0.9 Auto off of Gumtree (I know asking for trouble). When I was driving the car back I went to join the motorway and put my foot down and and the car started to loss power and judder until I took my foot off of the accelerator, it does it every time I try to accelerate hard, the last time it happened a message popped up saying stop start malfunction discounted and I can not be reconnected by pressing the button on the dash.  Can anyone give any help on what might be the fault.

 

Thanks

Edited January 20, 2018 by Stellatus

[Mikey]

Hello 

 

Just bought a Chrysler Ypsilon 2012 0.9 Auto off of Gumtree (I know asking for trouble). When I was driving the car back I went to join the motorway and put my foot down and and the car started to loss power and judder until I took my foot off of the accelerator, it does it every time I try to accelerate hard, the last time it happened a message popped up saying stop start malfunction discounted and I can not be reconnected by pressing the button on the dash.  Can anyone give any help on what might be the fault.

 

Thanks

 

Hi,

 

Welcome to the very small club! They are great cars and I am sure we can get you sorted out. Both myself and the wife have a 2012 twinair auto Limited and despite having a few issues, I managed to figure them all out and get them sorted.

 

The start stop can lock out if there is an underlying problem. I don't know what your mechanical experience is, but all you need to do to get it going again is disconnect the quick release negative battery cable, then disconnect the battery sensor on the same battery terminal. When you reconnect, connect the sensor first, then the negative battery cable. You need to leave it long enough for the clock to lose the time, if it hasn't when you reconnect, the start stop will not of reset and you need to leave it longer. 5 Minutes is normally enough. Please also be aware that the start stop is likely to be disabled again at some point, until the fault is resolved.

 

As for the loss of power, can you provide more detail. Was it like the engine was switched off and the car was slowing down, or did it just hold back for a bit before finally accelerating? If the latter, does it drive ok when the engine is cold? I had this problem too and resolved it quite cheaply as I know my way around engines.

 

Mike.

[Stellatus]

Hello Mike,

 

Just got the report back from the dealership the problem was with one of the ignition coils and spark plugs. Also the technician identified I will need two rear shock absorbers. The dealer even produced a video very impressive. Did cost me £104 for them to identify all of the issues.

 

https://www.arnoldclarkcarpreview.com/feed/embed_v2.php?shortcode=C2kKBd77B&fjwp=7&autostart=true&width=100%&height=100%&stretch=uniform

 

Stellatus

[bignev]

Hi there - you actually only need the top mount bushes for your rear shocks, but depends how cheap you can get a pair of full shocks I suppose.

 

i got bushes for my GV for £40 for top and bottom both sides, and because it's got the Nivomat (Sachs) self levelling suspension shocks it was worth taking them off to re-bush them, rather than £600 a pair..........  Yes, really!!!!!

[richiesgr]

Hi

 

I'm a new owner about 3 days now of a Lancia Ypsilon 2012 0.9 TwinAir

 

I've a similar issue described and this is what exactly happen:

 

When the car is cold after the night for example 

• I ignite the car without problem Then begin the start&Stop symbol error (yellow exclamation sign) + Engine malfunction yellow sign 
• If I try to drive like this I got no power at all the car can't pass 20 Km/h and the motor make a strange noise 
• I need to shut down the engine wait for 1 or 2 minutes then I re-ignite
• 2 possible outcomes:
  • All the malfunction symbol goes away and the car travel as expected
  • The Start&stop keep lightning informing the start stop is disabled but the car travel as expected

Now the car just comes out of the garage and they have already changes the plugs, motor and gear box shock absorber.

I've returned back to this garage they reject my complain saying it's not related. 

 

What can I do ?

 

Thanks for any help

 

[rich67]

Hi,

 

Welcome to the very small club! They are great cars and I am sure we can get you sorted out. Both myself and the wife have a 2012 twinair auto Limited and despite having a few issues, I managed to figure them all out and get them sorted.

 

The start stop can lock out if there is an underlying problem. I don't know what your mechanical experience is, but all you need to do to get it going again is disconnect the quick release negative battery cable, then disconnect the battery sensor on the same battery terminal. When you reconnect, connect the sensor first, then the negative battery cable. You need to leave it long enough for the clock to lose the time, if it hasn't when you reconnect, the start stop will not of reset and you need to leave it longer. 5 Minutes is normally enough. Please also be aware that the start stop is likely to be disabled again at some point, until the fault is resolved.

 

As for the loss of power, can you provide more detail. Was it like the engine was switched off and the car was slowing down, or did it just hold back for a bit before finally accelerating? If the latter, does it drive ok when the engine is cold? I had this problem too and resolved it quite cheaply as I know my way around engines.

 

Mike.

 

Hi Mike, I have been having a power problem with my twinair recently. The problem I`m getting is, runs fine when cold, but when warm holds back if you are in traffic and try to accelerate with the flow of traffic.

So far i`ve swapped coil packs, plugs, air filter and cleaned the throttle body and both air sensors. Was your problem similar nad how did you manage to resolve it. TIA

 

Rich