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Side Door Not Unlocking ?


CJE
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Not wishing to hijack your post  :unsure:, but this sounds exactly like what I have only that mine does work, but with a very loud buzzing sound from within the door. 

 

Anyway, the link to the new actuator is dead, but I see that there is this also on eBay https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_odkw=eBay+item+number%3A382283110528&_osacat=131090&_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=382283110528&_sacat=131090which seems to be the same.

 

Any pointers on getting the Door Card off would be gratefully received.

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Yes that's the actuator, and you must have cursed mine maxcaddy!! It's started doing that very loud buzzing when it locks!! But not when unlocking....

So a new one is here for when I can get the time!!

 

I can't remember accurately but there are a "few" Philips head screws, then the door card starts popping off (loudly) from the bottom, then lifts up over the door locking pin and window ledge and away.

 

Quite probably there will be some Town & Country versions jobs on youtube of course.

Edited by bignev
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Hi guys!

i got round to swapping the actuator today, while doing a couple of other bits like some exhaust repair paste on a hole in the middle silencer, hoping to get a bit longer out of it because as it's a stow n go I haven't yet found an aftermarket one (can find diesel ones).

 

I can get a stainless steel one made & fitted fairly locally but am reluctant to spend money on the ungrateful sod of a machine.

Put a new radiator on in the middle of November then the ignition coil goes one week later, at only 4 months old. I sent it back and got a refund no problem, just ruddy mither. New coil from the States in 2 days!

 

Then changed the front drop links as one end of the nearside has gone, and noisy, significantly, after only 18 months. They were bought from Jeep Chrysler parts who are pretty good, so that was disappointing. But an easy job.

 

So anyway I would guess you have done yours by now! Hey @@CJE ! Give a reply how it went?!

But for others the removal of the door card is a Philips screw in the recessed handle / "ash tray" at the top of the door, pop off the surround for the rubber bumper, then start at the bottom and (loudly!) pop off the door card, raise it over the locking knob, release from the upper window surround and it's away.

It has a heavy plastic sheet behind this, and a polystyrene block, presumably for a bit of noise insulation.

A little torx screw to release the actuator from the door, slide forward a little, release the door knob rod from the clip on the actuator, remove the electrical connector and you're away.

Refitting is not simply a reversal as you need to ensure the arc of the arm on the actuator is situated on the little barrel that is part of the door closer cinch motor, otherwise it won't disable this when "locked" and the opener button will operate. And it's hidden well, but isn't hugely difficult to feel for.

 

The actuators are the same both sides, but the arm is handed. The ones I have bought came with both arms each time.

Edited by bignev
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Well, had it been a bit warmer I would have changed the Actuator already, but as it's still working (other than the loud buzzing  :D), I've put that job off for a few weeks until it gets warmer, that is unless it gets a lot worse and starts to stop locking/unlocking  :o. However, the text on how to take it apart was gratefully received.

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Hi all. Just purchased a 2006 Grand voyager ltd 2.8

any information appreciated, the rear tail gate is electric but once open closes on its own within seconds, I’ve read a few threads saying it’s the struts but the seller said it’s a sensor,

the second problem is the l.h side door, it won’t unlock or open the button on top of the door is down and solid

the right hand sliding door works but doesn’t lock

any information appreciated as I don’t want to buy the wrong bits

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