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Bleeding Cooling System 2.8 Crd

cooling system

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11 replies to this topic

#1 3ddesign

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Posted 12 September 2017 - 11:49 AM

Stupid question but after replacing the engine in mine a SECOND time I don't mind sounding stupid.

 

Whats the best way to bleed the system ?

 

First proper run after new engine and running just above normal. Replaced relays to be sure, car running now in drive for two hours, fans cutting in and out as usual. Occasionally getting bubble up the front pipe into the expansion tank.

 

Should I drive with radiator cap loose for a few days ? Or something else.

 

Thanks, Mark.



#2 mikebh8

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Posted 12 September 2017 - 12:04 PM

Hi, I've been told that on the side with the gearbox, if is not bled properly, will remain air...didn't happen to me but what I did was:
I left it running until the fans started, turned it off, left it until it cooled down, pressing the lower radiator hose with my hand, run it again, I did that few times.
If you leave the cap off while cooling, the water will not go back in the system as it works in a vacuum way. Run it with the cap off, when the engine is of fit back the cap, this way when the water looses its volume it will pull more water into the system. And make sure all the water hoses are getting worm, this way you know for sure the thermostat is working.

Hope it helps.

#3 3ddesign

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Posted 12 September 2017 - 06:21 PM

Thanks,

According to the breaker the engine was taken out of a running car which had no issues, apparently the radiators are notorious in these cars. I'm not chancing anything so I've ordered a new radiator,
The top hose to the radiator was hit yet the radiator was only look warm.

We'll know at the weekend the outcome. Failing that I'll either put the thermostat from my own original engine or no thermostat at all for a bit to see what's going on.

#4 QinteQ

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Posted 12 September 2017 - 07:42 PM

Turn the heat full belt to open the matrix and open the water filler bottle let it heat up it will bleed out of the open filler cap. £10 and 10 minutes for the stat mod. You also need thee air-damMOD and the batterybuttonMOD for the winter. H05 for the coolant and Best of luck.



#5 3ddesign

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Posted 13 September 2017 - 07:26 PM

New rad here today, fitting tomorrow to be sure.
What's the best coolant I should be using thanks

#6 QinteQ

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Posted 13 September 2017 - 07:46 PM

Hoat05, so ditch the mullet & grunge music along with pink green and rust and and never mix versions of coolant / antifreeze. So Chrysler is right - go with HOAT and nothing else which is a hybrid coolant because it contains additive ingredients from both OAT and conventional formulas and remains compatible with both.



#7 mikebh8

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Posted 13 September 2017 - 09:55 PM

Until you are 100% sure the air is all out of the system don't let it running for hours... short runs for the first 4-5 times, just enough to start the fans and left to cool down, I don't know if it helps or not but I was shacking the engine while adding water....anything like helping a baby burp will do. As Qinetiq suggested, turn the heat on maximum and keep an eye on the water level for the first trips. Good luck.

#8 3ddesign

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Posted 14 September 2017 - 01:59 PM

Fitted new rad, spent ages trying to bleed it with the small hose top right disconnected.

Then realise the mechanic who fitted the engine had kinked the hose from the bottom of the expansion tank. NO WORDS !

Released the kink all is well, running just on around the quarter mark in the temp gauge.

The cynic would say I probably didn't need a new rad but glad I fitted it anyway.

That said had I not been careful the other day I'd have cooked the engine because of a careless mechanic !

#9 QinteQ

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Posted 14 September 2017 - 04:52 PM

You need to have about 1/2 on the temp gauge or your engine will be inefficient and anyway in a very short time you'll have ice on the inside of the windscreen and never get up to working temp.

 

The inline stat will give give you back your 1/2 way on the temp gauge. Add the 99p worth of Screwfix lagging will 1/2 the time in minutes it takes to get the 1/2 way on the temp gauge. Add the 'button battery mod' will give you back your 'old school' battery charging voltage rate'.

Inline stat, £10 + 10 minutes.
Air dam lagging, £1 + 10 minutes.
Battery mod, 20p + 5 minutes.

 

Best of luck



#10 mikebh8

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Posted 14 September 2017 - 05:09 PM

Agree with qinetiq, needs to be about half way up summer or winter, plus if it doesn't go over the half, which is about 90 degrees Celsius, the fans will not start.
Put the engine cover on and close the bonnet, in less than a half an hour the fans should start otherwise investigate further.
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#11 QinteQ

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Posted 14 September 2017 - 07:15 PM

- get some lagging from Screwfix 99p a length - cut to fit in the grill - throw away [or save till next winter] come summer - do the same next year

 

- putting a new stat in is a pigs job -  fit an inline stat - 20 minutes - £20 - GATES Part Number TH01489 from rockauto uk

 

- temp should be just under 1/2, any less than that and you will never get heat regardless

 

- quick school runs only and you will never get heat from the big engine lump

 

The original post, best of luck.



#12 3ddesign

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Posted 14 September 2017 - 08:33 PM

Thanks guys for the help




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