2.8 Crd P0235 Code And Other Stuff.

[frogland]

Ive just been given a 2006 LX 2.8 CRD with 124000 kms and im quite happy with it.

There are issues and i know Im going to have to invest a bit of time and money.

 

So I did the key dance and got code P0235 : Boost sensor Ive located it and it seems brand new. EGR valve ? TURBO ?

 

Im having intermittent starting problems,I turn the key the engine fires up for a second and then cuts out other times it starts fine.

Im presuming its a fuel issue the fuel filter heater housing plug is not connected,i havent reconnected it and it hasnt any signs or burn of deterioration.

 

Im going to try and test the pressure release valve and change the fuel filter, things which are simplest first.

 

The warning water in fuel filter symbol comes on as well as the engine warning and an airbag warning.I emptied the fuel filter a little but still get the warning.

 

The previous owner told me the car seemed to lacking its punch of old,i cant tell. 

 

Any pointers ? The simplest first .

[ryden]

I've checked the sensor and it's ok.

Checking for damaged wires would mean opening the loom and following them to ?? Do they go to the ecu ?

I'm tempted to disconnect the Ecu and give it a go with contact cleaner,whats the procedure ? batterie earth plug off first and then disconnect the plug.

 

Have you only checked it visually? because it still could be faulty.

 

I would imagine a break of that nature ( where the loom is protected) isn't overly common - more likely corroded pins i'd say.

 

Yep, disconnect the battery and then you can remove the ecu - check all pins and give it a light spraying.

 

Mike suggests you redo the test as described by him in his latest post as well.

 

Also, I've added in what lead me to highlight the 4.5v reading you had

 

Edited August 21, 2017 by ryden

[frogland]

Thanks for the replies I'll keep you updated.

[frogland]

Did the test with the plug connected ,with the engine idling : 4,85v, engine at 2500rpm :4,85v. ??

[frogland]

Maybe bite the bullet and get another sensor ?

[ryden]

Quick quesiton frog - has your other issues gotten any better ( does it idle fine now?) 

[frogland]

Its always idled fine. I just have to make sure i ignition with my foot down on the accelerator. I've got into the habit of priming the fuel filter as well. I will eventually get a new filter housing just so that i can cross that off the list as a probable cause.

Im in the process of renewing the tie rods/ends amazingly they came off easily even without a special tool !!!!

[gordy]

From another car not Chrysler or Voyager the engine cutting power on booting it was down to much crud/carbon inside the Turbo, on and around the waste gate.

Sounds about right.. 

[ryden]

After reading through the post thoroughly and assuming you have no other issues with the car ( no lag, limp mode, hunting, excess smoke or rough running etc.)

 

Plus you cant find any leaks, then its either air getting in or possible blockages ( the rubber hoses with the crimped metal ends aren't the best and injectors can get blocked easily. Also the connector you found unplugged is a bit suspicious)

 

Here's the list Chrysler provide, for hard start checking. 

 

Edited August 25, 2017 by ryden

[frogland]

Thanks for that Mr ryden that gives me a lot to get on with !

The question i'm trying to answer is this : are the two symptoms ( fuelling / lack of boost ) linked ?

If they're not then the boost problem is my priority because it really affects drive quality.

I recently noticed this when i'd turned off the engine there was a hissing noise coming from here (see image), is it usual ?

[ryden]

No problem, faults like these can either be obvious or quite time consuming to identify.

 

Possibly. I had the P2035 fault code myself. My issues turned out to be a seized waste gate and my waste gate actuator failing ( but my car ran/started fine, unless you tried to floor it) 

 

that component is the EGR solenoid. But I couldn't say if that hissing noise was okay - but I've never heard a noise like the one you have ( not saying whether that's right or wrong) 

[frogland]

Did you have to replace the turbo ?

[ryden]

Nope and I managed to do all the work in place ( was an absolute bastard, wont lie) 

 

Removed the waste gate actuator, then freed off the waste gate and refitted the replacement actuator - success. 

Edited August 26, 2017 by ryden

[frogland]

Ok I was under the impression that a replacement actuator couldn't be sourced.

Do you remember where you got it ?

cheers.

[ryden]

That's correct. I managed to purchase a complete turbo and manifold for a price you wouldn't believe ( I still don't to this day!) and use the actuator off of it.

 

I've attached the link to my post regarding the issues I had, but if you want the short story - car ran and started fine, if you tried heavy acceleration the warning light would come on until you slowed back down. After fault finding and discussing with my friend ( a mechanic) turned out to be seized waste gate and actuator starting to fail.

 

http://www.chryslerforum.co.uk/topic/1067-hard-acceleration-causing-eml-to-come-on/ 

[frogland]

As soon as i've finished tie rods/ends and got it through the mot i'm going to check the turbo,egr valve and i'll change the thermostat whilst i'm there a coolant change is in order as well. I know it's going to be a bitch to do but it's gotta be done.

Luckily i'm in no rush to use the car.

Edited August 26, 2017 by frogland

[mikebh8]

If I may suggest, don't just empty the system, flush it with a garden hose through as many holes as you can undo.

[frogland]

Sorry to bring up that old chestnut but what coolant should i put in ?

[ryden]

All the info you'll need below: - 

 

http://www.chryslerforum.co.uk/topic/1441-how-much-antifreeze-do-i-need/

 

https://www.chryslerforum.com/forum/chrysler-voyager-town-country-21/hoat-coolant-22894/

[mikebh8]

From another car not Chrysler or Voyager the engine cutting power on booting it was down to much crud/carbon inside the Turbo, on and around the waste gate.

Sounds about right..

 

I had that and the symptoms were oil through the dipstick and through the camshaft oil filling hole...

[mikebh8]

Did the test with the plug connected ,with the engine idling : 4,85v, engine at 2500rpm :4,85v. ??

Hi, as per when the sensor is disconnected, it shows an open circuit.

Are you 100% sure the sensor is OK?! It sounds like the ecu doesn't receive any info from it?!

 

If it is, try replacing the plug, I know you took the reading from the plug when the sensor was disconnected but... still something is not right at that end, the ecu and wiring are fine ( my opinion, not an expert).

 

Hope it helps, sorry it took so long as you know I was a bit busy.

[frogland]

Hello everyone I know it's been a long time luckily i haven't needed to use the car ,so i've had time to remove everything when i've had the time.

So I finally got to the turbo and it was fine i checked everything cleaned the EGR high wasn't very dirty and the pipe back to the inlet manifold. I checked the condition of the small hoses from the solenoid-ok. I replaced the thermostat and used new joints on the exhaust manifold and turbo. I also used contact cleaner on all the plugs including the ecu.

I took everything out from the front and it was A REAL PITA !!!

 

I've got piece of mind that it's not egr or Turbo related but i've still got P0235 and i can feel the lack of boost.

I've ordered a new MAP we'll see how that goes.

 

And i've still got low fuel pressure issues high which I'll tackle in this order

- filter housing ( even though there no signs of leakage on the present one )

- injector cleaner directly into fuel filter (in case of leaking injectors)

- new relief valve ( even though i've tested the present one for leak back,which there isn't)

- new fuel pressure regulator.

- clean fuel tank

- injectors ??