Lower Radiator Hose Came Off After Running The Engine About 30Mins

[mikebh8]

Hello, I have a 2004 gv, 2.5 crd which is over a year I am trying to get it started after replacing the engine.

It finally started this morning ( I am frilled, is like having a new born baby)

For those who want to know the story:

After replacing it, it won't start.Initially was cranking with help from easy start but after two cans of spray I gave up that option. I replaced most of the sensors, injectors, tank with lift pump, relays and eventually the battery which was only one year old.

My conclusion is:

 

 

The ASD( autoshotdown) relay was faulty from the previous engine, no fault on the diagnostic except "fuel level sensor/ open circuit", which led me to replace the tank ( I did not check to see if the fault is still there).

After replacing the ecu, I found out about the ASD and after fitting the old ecu back, I replaced the relay, now I had power coming to injectors ( it should be between 0 and 1 volt)

 

Air in the fuel system, which I solved it by removing about 10-15 litres of fuel until no bubbles where seen into the clear hose fitted to the pipe coming from the low pressure pump. Also thanks to Andyb2000, I new to undo the cap under the fuel filter ( I left it unscrewed for 3 turns).

 

Last was the one year old battery( which I never thought until after I noticed that was charging to fast). Even tough the green dot was there and was holding the voltage, was not enough amperage to crank an engine. Today after having it started I found out that this type of cars need the right amperage to get it started.

 

 

Now, the problem that I have is that after letting it running about 30 mins, the water hose connected to the lower right corner( facing the car) of the radiator came undone when the temperature reached more or less 85 degrees.I was expecting to hear if the fans kick in, as this was the initial problem, last  year before replacing the engine.

When I got the current engine, i was assured by the seller that is running fine, I am assuming the water pump is good?!?! also it has it's own thermostat that came fitted on the engine.

Any ideas why the water won't circulate and builds up enough pressure to push out the hose?

 

Also, thank you for all the help received from the members of this forum that replied to my posts over the time and helped me understanding the issues.

[gordy]

Did the thermostat open and let the hot coolant through to the radiator. Did you bleed the air out of the coolant system.

[mikebh8]

Hi gordy, thanks for replaying and thanks for previous replies too.

My little experience would let me think that the airlock in the system would only boil the water and eventually damage the gasket?!?! Correct me if I'm wrong. On the other hand the thermostat, I replaced the one from my brother in law's car ( which eventually ended up being mine so I can use parts to start mine) with the one from the old engine that I broke ( long story). The only problem that GV had was cold air in the cabin even though the heat was at maximum.

I will remove that one, we know that is working as it solved the problem on that car, and I will fit it to mine. I'll keep the post updated.

Thanks.

 

P. S. The air bleeding was done by the most stupid mechanic I ever met, I eventually removed the car from his garage and DIY it until it started.

Does anyone know or has a link to a step by step guide How to properly bleed a 2.5 crd GV?

Again thanks for all the help received through this forum.

[andyb2000]

Hi Mike,

 

I've changed the radiator on mine so done a bit with the cooling system (BTW you're going to change the thermostat? How on earth did you manage that previously as it's in such an awkward place on the 2.5/2.8CRD's I've failed on two different ones and went for adding the additional thermostat inline!).

 

When I replaced the radiator, etc, there wasn't much of a bleed needed with it, fill the expansion bottle up, let it leak through and I then hand 'pumped' the top hose (running to the right of the main block at the top), this got quite a bit circulated. I then started up, switched heaters to full and let the car idle for a while to get warmed up (with cap off water expansion bottle) as it slowly dropped I added more keeping it at the max mark. It didn't take long and didn't take much more than I'd already put in.

So not a difficult bleed solution, which makes me think something else isn't right here if it managed to blow the pipe off. BTW I assume the metal hose retention clip was still on it, not just the hose pushed on into place?

[gordy]

As with all coolant systems any air in the system is going to go/end up in the highest pipe or hose. So looking at your engine which is same as mine, the highest pipe and hose is the one between thermostat and radiator. So pick the short hose at rear of engine on this line, slacken one clip off and slip back the clip off the hose. Then with a blunt small screwdriver or knitting needle, prize it under the hose till it reaches the coolant void. After air hisses out and coolant seeps out refit the clip and secure, bleeding done. Mind top up the header tank as it will go down. 

[mikebh8]

Hi, andy2000, about the thermostat tell me about it, as is the 3rd time I put my hands on one of those....my brother in law found out the trick, you remove the wipers and the motor cover along with the motor casing, soon as you done that is a 15 mins job. gordy, soon as I finish work today I'll have a look again at it, however I managed to take a part the old engine ( up to the injectors) and as I took out the water pump I found debris like brick residue, could the radiator be blocked?! I'll post the answer soon as I sort it out.

Thanks.

Edited March 14, 2017 by mikebh8