Rattly Thumpy Noise On Idle

[andyb2000]

(Sorry for the cross-post those guys who are on the .com forum too, trying to get as many people eyes on it!)

 

Hi folks,

2.8CRD auto 2005 121,000 miles.

This one just jumped out at me, and doesn't sound good at all for my GV. It's a rattle/rumble that happens at idle, give it a little revs and it goes away, under normal driving you only notice it when the revs drop back to almost the idle position. Runs fine, smooth, no issues with gear shifts, etc.
My first suspicion was the auto-box, or flexplate as it sounded like it came from the box casing, however a friendly local autobox specialist kindly had a listen/look for me and used a microphone listener and he doesn't think it's the autobox (The sound doesn't go away when in drive, when the flexplate, etc, would be put under hydraulic pressure which normally is when a flexplate/gearbox fault would change in sound). He listened all over the engine and couldn't pinpoint, he said it sounds almost like it's from the block itself and echoing, so he's suggesting I drop the belt first and see if that makes the sound go away or change at all.
(So firstly, whats the procedure for taking the belt off on the 2.8CRD RHD, as it doesn't look particularly easy to access the tensioner. Best from underneath or the top and just use the right socket and long bar?)

Failing that he's suspecting an injector possibly that's destroyed (partially or not) itself and rattling badly.

Has anyone heard something similar and have any pointers on this one please? This one is making me worried!

He's the recording of it, this is sat outside work so after a 30 minute drive, sound doesn't change on temperatures.

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4HZIg8QhLkw

[blackvelvet]

Interestiing that it only happens at idle.

Something loose.

Make a stethoscope from some plumbing tube and try to pinpoint it. The noise will get louder as you put the tube nearer to it.

Is it front of engine / rear..... Left or right hand side.  Top or bottom.

Check the pulleys for tightness. Is the exhaust to engine connection tight.

[andyb2000]

Thanks m8, yes that's the strange part the idling part of it, whenever the revs drop down to idle, say sat at lights, slowing right down you hear it again, it's very noisy (can hear me coming a mile off!)

 

Going to have a run at it tomorrow as I've got the day free, will try the plumbing tube trick too (as well as the screwdriver to the ear) and see if I can pinpoint any further.

 

So my plan of attack:

Check for obvious loose brackets, fittings, etc. Also try to see if it's the CAT (possibly the honeycomb disintegrated?)

Get the car up on jack stands and then star to listen, look and see what I can see all under and over it.

Take serpentine belt off and again see if any change

 

Failing that I'm stumped and might have to give up and take it to a dealership as we've got a Chrysler dealership not too far, but I'm not convinced they'd be up to the job to be honest!

[GaryCRD]

Hi Andy. Could well be the idler/tensioner pulleys on the alternator belt. Mine were shot to pieces and making a horrible noise at idle at about 130k. I bought a new set, but before I fitted them the fuel problem happened - thanks for the post on my topic. ! GaryCRD.

[gordy]

Our dogs could hear me coming a mile away as well as my friendly neighbour. Turn out to be the Alternator and only thing we could find with it, was the shaft/pulley was not as free turning as it should be. Got a replacement tensioner too just in case. 

[ZombieRodeo]

(Sorry for the cross-post those guys who are on the .com forum too, trying to get as many people eyes on it!)

 

Hi folks,

 

2.8CRD auto 2005 121,000 miles.

 

This one just jumped out at me, and doesn't sound good at all for my GV. It's a rattle/rumble that happens at idle, give it a little revs and it goes away, under normal driving you only notice it when the revs drop back to almost the idle position. Runs fine, smooth, no issues with gear shifts, etc.

My first suspicion was the auto-box, or flexplate as it sounded like it came from the box casing, however a friendly local autobox specialist kindly had a listen/look for me and used a microphone listener and he doesn't think it's the autobox (The sound doesn't go away when in drive, when the flexplate, etc, would be put under hydraulic pressure which normally is when a flexplate/gearbox fault would change in sound). He listened all over the engine and couldn't pinpoint, he said it sounds almost like it's from the block itself and echoing, so he's suggesting I drop the belt first and see if that makes the sound go away or change at all.

(So firstly, whats the procedure for taking the belt off on the 2.8CRD RHD, as it doesn't look particularly easy to access the tensioner. Best from underneath or the top and just use the right socket and long bar?)

 

Failing that he's suspecting an injector possibly that's destroyed (partially or not) itself and rattling badly.

 

Has anyone heard something similar and have any pointers on this one please? This one is making me worried!

 

He's the recording of it, this is sat outside work so after a 30 minute drive, sound doesn't change on temperatures.

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4HZIg8QhLkw

 

I took my 2005 Auto 2.8 CRD to the garage last week as it was making a loud rattling noise (exactly the same as in your video) on idle (the trader i bought it from told me it was a heat shield) turned out to be the Catalytic Convertor, the garage replaced it with a new one for £295.

 

I only went in to get the steering wheel realigned and wound up replacing the CAT, getting new front brake discs and pads, two new front tyres and a new CV joint... not bad for only owning the car 1 day! I still need to fix the rear shock absorbers, rear wiper, washer fluid bottle and the DVD screen as I already fixed the power doors and the power tailgate.

Edited February 15, 2017 by ZombieRodeo

[andyb2000]

Well, I've just taken the power steering pump belt off and the serpentine belt and the noise is still there, so looks like it's in the block, flexplate or the autobox.

(I had it running and listened using the spanner to the ear trick, and it wasn't coming from the cat)

 

I'm at a loss now so think I'll have to get it down to a garage and let them get started on it to work their way through, I'm really starting to wonder if something has dropped into the engine.

[andyb2000]

Rather than write another reply, I'll point you to my post on the .com forum folks http://www.chryslerforum.com/forum/chrysler-voyager-town-country-21/rattly-thumpy-noise-idle-27133/#post99288

 

Unfortunately finding metal bits in the sump seems to me to be the major sign that something is not well inside the engine so I'm thinking get it to a garage and get the head off and everything checked out.

 

 

[andyb2000]

Rather than write another reply, I'll point you to my post on the .com forum folks http://www.chryslerforum.com/forum/chrysler-voyager-town-country-21/rattly-thumpy-noise-idle-27133/#post99288

 

Unfortunately finding metal bits in the sump seems to me to be the major sign that something is not well inside the engine so I'm thinking get it to a garage and get the head off and everything checked out.

 

 

[andyb2000]

Just for complete-ness I've done a write-up of the whole saga, and all the steps I did to diagnose, try out, etc, so it might be useful to others for the future.

http://www.thebmwz3.co.uk/2017/06/chrysler-grand-voyager-flexplate.html

It covers:

• Balance Shaft Assembly on base of engine
• Accessory belt removal/replacement
• Oil Sump removed
• Balance Shaft Assembly removed
• Injector return leak test
• Flexplate removal (Separation of the gearbox and the engine)

[bignev]

Blooming good show Andy, very thorough investigation. Far better than most professionals I've dealt with over the years. Absolutely super write up too mate, fingers crossed I don't get to do it.