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Parrott Hands Free


almaff
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Hi,

 

You might not achieve what you want unfortunately. I also have Parrott Bluetooth and I bought all 3 ISO cables as they are slightly different, and none of them would direct the audio to the speakers.

 

I wrote quite a lengthy blog post on this and have logged down all 3 ISO SOT leads I tried, might be worth a quick ready as it might help/hinder you!

http://andyb2000.thebmwz3.co.uk/2015/05/chrysler-grand-voyager-sound-system.html

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Would appreciate it if you get feedback. Or at least take a look afterwards and find what solution they came up with. These are complicated beasts when it comes to their audio, so any information you get would be really welcomed :-)

 

I know it's not easy, but when you go in, make sure the deal is, "you make it work or I don't pay" in case they struggle on for hours and eventually give up and still give you a bill at the end.

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Hi if your system has an amp. Most times you alsoneed a lead from the amp. those can be very expensive.i had a volvo and the system had an amp. So i had to have the standard sot lead which you can get from most motor factors but the amp lead is a specialist item which has to be ordered in. At a cost of £80. Edited by Dazandtrace
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Hi Daz,

 

That was the bit I was confused about, normally that lead is just to power/trigger the amp to switch on isn't it? And since I already had my radio switched on, then the amp received the on signal on the bus and was energised.

 

(My original GV that I successfully wired the bluetooth kit into worked like that, you had to have the radio on to 'energise' the amp)

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Hi,

 

My website moved, so that url is now http://www.thebmwz3.co.uk/2015/05/chrysler-grand-voyager-sound-system.html

 

But the problem still persists, I never solved it and used the technique Stevec0268 mentioned, I installed a separate speaker as haven't yet managed to tap into the voyager sound system.

 

Probably not until next summer now, but my plan is to remove the rear quarter to expose the amplifier and start to probe and test the wiring harness from it to the head unit to determine what is going on.

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Hi almaff, I have a parrot Mki9200 fitted on my 2004 Chrysler grand voyager and I had a parrot 3100 fitted on a previous one ('99 model). In both occasions I had to connect the speakers by cutting the wires of both the stereo's speakers and the parrot's.
A good electrician shouldn't have a problem doing this, the important thing is to make sure the parrot's input wires are connected to the stereo's output and output wires of parrot are connected to input of the speakers.

Attached, hopefully, you will see a picture with the wiring of my parrot. The blue one is the input of the parrot and the output of the stereo, the red one is the other way around. The other picture is with an example of a connection wire that can be used to make it more easily removable, I did not intend to remove mine, that's why I soldered directly the wires.

As per price, everything above £35-40 is too much, with my previous gv I asked a specialist to do it and was (if I remember well) £180..few hours later I had it done myself.

Where about are you, if is not too far I could do it for you?

Edited by mikebh8
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Hi Mike,

 

Just a little word of warning, I've owned two GV's, both apparently 2004/2005 models with the same amp and infinity sound system, RB3 head unit, however they were both very different when it came to the speaker outputs from the RB3. As per my website investigation/link the signals appear to be digitally encoded onto the 'speaker' outputs from the RB3. (I'm planning next summer to spend some time on this, and use my oscilloscope to interrogate the output from the RB3 speaker wires)

 

All I'm saying is, don't assume that all models are the same, there are clearly very subtle differences as I found between the years (1 year difference in the ones I've owned!) and in some cases you can't just splice into the speaker wires as it just won't work.

Edited by andyb2000
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Hi @@andyb2000 any luck with this yet? I wanted the parrot done, Halfords said they could do it originally, they ordered 2 harnesses as they weren't sure which it'd need. I booked the afternoon off to get it done and low and behold, as you guys have said, they ran into problems and can't do it. So I've bought a av adapter but as I mentioned in another post, it's not a great solution! Would love to know how you get on! Cheers, and good luck!
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Hi Robbie,

 

Sorry you've not had any luck, I suspected as much, I've tried 2-3 different ones and all failed.

 

Haven't done the investigation/mod yet but it's imminent as I have my eye on an Android head unit that's pretty cheap (£100) to give it a go with. I'll have to modify the facia so I'm also going to buy a spare from ebay to modify/get it right!

 

So bear with me, probably in the next fortnight I'll have done some digging.

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Hi, any of you guys is willing to come over to mine, I guarantee I can make it work.

I did it on several makes and models.

It does not affect the original stereo sound, the only thing what it does is that it takes the original stereo sound and pass it through the bluetooth unit to the speakers, when the bluetooth is used it mutes the stereo and only lets out the sound from the bluetooth unit. Mine works perfect. It does not matter what type of connection you have.

I even did it on a Peugeot 307 that doesn't have a switch line on the stereo, but a permanent positive and negative and a switched negative.

Hope it helps.

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Hi @@mikebh8

 

We're not doubting you fella, but trust me (electrician for many years!), I've owned two 04/05 plate GV's now and the last one it worked fine, tapping into the speaker wires as you have you could send audio straight to the speakers no problem (feeding the stock radio output to the Parrot relay unit which then feeds the speakers). It's not the connector/connection that's the issue, it's the Chrysler amplifier hidden in the back of the car that causes the issue.

(And I've installed Parrot bluetooth units for the past 15 odd years into various cars and models using the same bypass cable technique)

 

On the GV I now own you cannot simply replace the audio feed at the back of the radio and feed your own souce. Not sure which post/where I posted all my testing, but I split the cables, so radio was on and playing to whole car. Disconnected front left and front right wires and fed a different audio source to them (from a portable player with amp) and what happened was the two front left and right KEPT playing the Chrysler stereo output, but quieter and it ignored the input I fed from my separate amp. I did the same with each pair to feed audio to each speaker separately and it did the same thing which is what lead me to believe there are different setups and installs (my suspicion is the amplifier is deciding that it doesn't like the separate input and thus feeds its other input signal to the speakers), hence why I'm going to do some more digging to discover the differences between the subtle model differences and locate the amplifier and find how it's wired up.

 

As soon as I get the time to investigate further I'll post up what I discover as it's commonly discussed here and on the US forums.

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Hi andyb2000, by all means I don't argue your results.

I as well been into electrics for many years (my childhood toys were my dad's electrician tools), plus I am a 17th edition qualified, so if I may say:

The only time that happen to me, both sound from radio and bluetooh in the same time but one slightly lower in volume, was when by accident I wired the stereo output with the bluetooth input, anyway the big picture was that I cut the wires to the bluetooth (both input and output) in the same time without marking them.That was on a vauxhall astra 2001.

It might happen too if the bluetooth unit doesn't mute the stereo when used.

Hope it helps.

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