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Mine has the cradle but i dont know what to buy and cant sync Bluetooth to my phone

No unfortunately not

Too right matey!! Thin aluminium sheet rolled round it, and black high temperature sealant from my local Autofactors. Marvellous. I think I'm due under there again soon sadly...... It's just had its FOURTH water pump too! One when I got it 9 years ago, about 80,000 miles, one done by me - never again, one done by my mate just under a year ago, and one a month ago. I've bought cheap, and I've bought dear, doesn't make a jot of difference to this thing!! Some radweld too, let's see how long it doesn't use coolant for this time. Have you got a stop watch?

Nothing wrong with a good bodge!

You need to be more specific with the problem - If you struggle with the language, use your native language in google translate, turn it into English, copy the text and then paste it into the forum.

I have sourced the correct top mounts. Cheers Steve

Thanks Deltamike, I did manage to source them through ebay and parts are now fitted. Could do with top strut mount rubbers if you have any idea which ones I would need. Cheers Steve.

Hi all I just recently have a p0045 code on my 2010 300c 3.0 crd v6 diesel so what's the issue

HI, CHRYSLR VOYAGER IV, 2.8 CRD A NOISE STARTING AND STOPPING THE ENGINE INTO ENGINE COMPARTMENT DOWN PLS ANY SUGGESTIONS IF SOME ONES HAVE IDEAS ABOUT, THANK YOU DIMI

Disconnect battery for 20mins then re-connect. lock and unlock then lock and leave for 10mins. come back to car and car will open as if nothing is wrong…. happened to me twice so far…

I know this is an old post but I am still looking for a Chrysler Delta wheelcap for the 1.6 MJ with 17" wheels. If anyone has them please let me know.

Problem now sorted hopefully... Before I go into details, I would like to quote the old saying 'buy cheap, buy twice, buy thrice' as all brake pads are not equal & all brake pads do not fit as properly as OEM pads....especially if they are produced in China for the EU. My problem was brake knock/rattle over bumpy roads at low speed & it was indeed the pads. It wasn't the height of the pads that was the problem (183.4 mm), it was the width of the pad ears. The pad ears on cheap pads are not wide enough, hence they rock back & forth, which causes a clunk/rattle on rough ground which goes away when you apply the brakes. I bought some NAPA 'proformer' pads & they have ears that are (and I've measured them with a micrometer) 0.9mm wider, which pushes into the caliper clips alot tighter, thus stopping them rocking back & forth and preventing the brake pad from rattling....at last I'm a happy 300C driver

ETC

Sadly, Richard is probably right. But, give it a go - disconnect the battery for half an hour, as a few of those circuits will reset this way. I would say pull the IOD fuse, but in this case go the whole hog. There are also the fuses under the steering wheel as well as the box under the bonnet, just check them all and hope something has done its job and protected things!

Hiya there! I have the same situation, same car, nothing in the UK. So either one of the stainless steel make one on the car companies, or a fortune from the States. Yep. I've carried on bodging it so far!!

Front coil spring for the 1.4 Bravo II is the same, that's what I & many others have used. Alternator likewise, 1.4 Bravo II but also 1.4 Croma II & 1.4 AR Guilietta. 2 versions listed (100A & 120A, yours should have a label with the amps & part number) but fitment is the same. Fiat ePer is what you need https://eper.fiatforum.com/en/Drawings/Detail/L/L/DEL/TN/553/1/10/0/SubSubGroup HTH

Sorry but would suggest ECU has been electrocuted! - There is a feed to this that does not go via the ign switch i.e. live all the time.

Hi , I have made a major schoolboy error, after fitting a new EGR, I decided to replace the battery too. I did not see that the polarity on the new battery was reversed. I took it for granted that it was same as old one. (shame) When I connected the Earth / Ground black connector to what I thought was Negative, it started sparking and wiring started smoking at loom above starter motor, where 2/3 wires all branch together. I quickly realised something bad was happening so quickly disconnected the battery, and re-fitted the older battery. The central locking is not working, radio, heater fan not working, heated seats not working, rear wash/wipe, N/S 12v outlet not working but O/S is working. Lights/horn/indicators/dials(after dial dance) all working. Had a look at a few fuses and they "look" okay. Swapped rear blower relay with accessories relay, but still same. Can anyone suggest which relay or fuses to check for basically all the central dash switches ?? If I can find a relay or fuse to change, then that would save me having to investigate the wiring loom until last. 2007 stow n go grand voyager. Gutted and angry at myself. Basics. Thanks, fingers crossed P.S. car started fine and runs, and after clearing code P0402,no more engine light.

Hi Guys Would anyone have the corresponding part numbers for the following items for my Delta 2012 1.4. Alternator Front Coil Spring I'm hoping the the Fiat Bravo or Punto parts will be suitable. Thnaks in advance. Steve.

Hi did you manage to solve the issue? I am picking up a car next week with same fitting thing on the right hand side but it has no tom tom or cradle so im wondering what i should be buying

Hi all , it's been a while but the old girls still chugging along with very little fuss, however time has come to finally replace the exhaust and stop bodging it. Only problem is I can't find one anywhere, does anyone know and suppliers. Only place I can even find a picture is in thae US It's an 06 3.3 grand voyager with stow and go

I will answer myself if someone should have similar problems: The case is solved. Its not easy to find a wiring diagram for the 2.8 diesel but at last I found one. The three pins on the alternator stands for Dummy-LIN-Dummy so only the "LIN" should be connected. According to the wiring diagram there should be a wire between ECM pin #93 and the LIN connections with white/orange. Found the cable by the ECM but the other end is impossible to find if i dont remove a lot of things. Cut the wire and made a new cable to the alternator and works perfect!

I came to the conclusion that my car have the correct alternator but the correct wire is missing, I have looked where I can reach but cant find it. Is there anyone here who has a Voyager 2.8CRD and can check where the wiring to the alternator is connected so i know where to look? Pictures would be great.

Hello! I have bought a lancia Voyager 2012 2.8crd. The battery light is on and i checked the alternator connections. I can find a contact that is hanging loose a bit below the alternator, if this is the alternator wires, it only has 2 pins. The colours doesnt match the wiring diagram either… The generator mounted has a contact with 3 pins. When i check for new/used alternators they all seem to have 3 pin? have i found the right contact? It doesnt reach the alternator but maybe the harness is mounted wrong? can you tell me what contacts you have on your alternators for voyager 2.8crd 2012?

Firstly, as these cars are actually Lancias it’s aways worthwhile doing a search for that, as long as the part you are after isn’t RHD specific of course. You would most likely have to buy from abroad but it beats having the car off the road. Cables are available on eBay from the UK, not particularly cheap I suppose. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/325586217495?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=UYc4-p3_T3y&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=4Kpoeel1TUm&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY