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#857 Known Issues And Faults

Posted by soulie147 on 14 August 2014 - 02:07 PM

Electric Windows seem to be a bit of a bone of contention.

 

Don't let a seller tell you  "It's probably just a fuse"  if one of your windows doesn't work,  there are no fuses.

 

I have spoken to a couple of other Voyager users and they say the same.

Keep the window tracks oiled so there is no resistance for window going up and down.

Seems once the tracks either end dry up,  the motors slow down and that's when problems can start.

I use some 3 in one oil,  not WD40,  and my once slow windows now nip up and down.

 

Just a thought!!


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#8908 Looking For Reverse Light

Posted by Andrewgrale on 14 September 2017 - 12:49 PM

If you wish to contact them, you have to say it is a right hand side driver, they will ask that along with a number plate or chassis number(don't use the chassis number as it comes up left hand drive..if anyone that reads this message could post their number plate would be easier for the guy to find the right
;)


PF 12 MHY should be enough to use as a template reg number
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#8903 Looking For Reverse Light

Posted by mikebh8 on 14 September 2017 - 10:52 AM

Hi, I have a price: 41, 48.

They do want payment in advance...

So, if you think of a solution.

I can only assume they will ask for an uk credit or debit card, they do take payments over the phone or someone can go in the office and order the part.

 

Let me know what you think.


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#8901 Looking For Reverse Light

Posted by mikebh8 on 14 September 2017 - 07:53 AM

Hi, I got through the local main dealer, it moved from Chrysler Westover...to Jeep Westover( they changed name and location).
I am waiting for a price from him as the system wasn't loading fast enough.
If you wish to contact them, you have to say it is a right hand side driver, they will ask that along with a number plate or chassis number(don't use the chassis number as it comes up left hand drive..if anyone that reads this message could post their number plate would be easier for the guy to find the right part...it should be only one part coming up but the guy at the phone said it comes up with more models.
I'll let you know what the price is soon as he contacts me.
;)
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#8703 Surplus Spring Coils For Free

Posted by Dido on 25 August 2017 - 07:04 PM

This forum has proved indispensable for a Delta owner.
I had the misfortune of a snapped passenger side spring coil, originals come in pairs with a hefty £300 price tag. I am going for an advice I got from the forum for a suspension lowering eipache kit been backed and shipped and hopefully by next week will be fitted OK.
I will have surplus driver side and the 2 back ones old and bit rusty of course (11 reg) but can solve a problem and get a Delta back on the road.
I can find some space in the garage or the attic to keep these in case a mate in the forum needs them, can ship for what it costs.
Do you think we should set a spares thread....
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#8691 Cambelt Change

Posted by Andrewgrale on 24 August 2017 - 09:02 PM

Afternoon All,

My 2013 Delta, with 87K on the clock required a CamBelt change.

Two things:-
1) would you also look at getting the water pump replaced at the same time?
2) Anyone know of a reputable garage in the Peterborough area, that won't charge the earth?

Thanks in advance for any help / assistance provided. :)


Hi Lindzy and welcome along !

If there's 84k miles on the pump and you have no evidence that it has been changed in the cars lifetime, I would take the opportunity to do it now, as it would be at least 5 years old now ????
The reason that most garages recommend a pump change is because most are ran by the timing belt now and most timing belts are now in kit form and include new guide bearings, belt stretcher and some include the pump and gasket, when the new belt is fitted the new stretcher puts a different tension on the belt (because it is new) and this may be more than the old belt, which is a different push or pull on the old water pump (if it hasn't been replaced) what often happens is, that 3 or 4 months after you replace the timing belt and don't renew the pump, the pump begins to leak because of the different tension

Apologies for the rambling response, your eyes have probably glazed over
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#8484 Emergency Brake Pedal.

Posted by QinteQ on 08 August 2017 - 08:06 PM

Rolling the car backwards was an inadvertently interesting comment to me.

A Story

I called the system design she-brakes. Back in the 'big block shooting brake' days when rich America was in the middle of a roads and housing boom new towns just off motorways were built with big wide boulevard's and the roads were deliberately sunk low so drives were up a slope to allow drainage from the property. There was a rash of insurance claims made for 2 1/2 ton cars rolling unattended backwards into traffic so the 'top hat' shoe was redesigned to grab the trailing rather than the leading edge - after all it's a parking brake design not a handbreak. This still exists as far as I'm aware to this day.
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#8343 How To Clear The Service Light.

Posted by Rossocorsa on 31 July 2017 - 08:43 PM

You need multiecuscan software and then need to clear both service and oil degradation counters. If you are going to keep the car a while and do your own servicing and diagnostics is well worth buying as it will soon pay for itself. You need to run it on a laptop and get a set of connectors for the OBD2 socket.
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#8335 Delta Lancia Badging

Posted by Otterwindows on 31 July 2017 - 04:56 PM

Screenshot_20170731-172405.png Screenshot_20170731-172405.png Screenshot_20170731-172405.png
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#8242 Diagnostic Tools, Cables, Software?

Posted by QinteQ on 21 July 2017 - 02:20 PM

I've got access to 3 different up to date snap-on[s] within 3 minutes of here and several other brands, none of which were to my satisfaction because they don't do what my existing old x431 [non v3 / non pro] 3" v1 2016 edition does. The old v1 x431 does do everything on my 05 2.8 CRD, but that doesn't mean that it or any specific scanner does all things across the whole range . . none of them do . . . ask anyone who knows these things and has to use them all day long every day. Most small garages have two for a reason, bigger places also have dual trace scopes in conjunction with a diagnostic scanner and diagnostic equipment is useless without experience & expensive training or for the novice even more expensive a scanner with guided diagnostics / the HGS. No one diagnostic scanner does all parts of all cars. My observation is that the GV/Town & Country does not have a CRD as far as the Americans are concerned, so from the cheap Haynes manuals to expensive diagnostic scanners there's no diesel powertrain module even if it does read your VIN number properly and many don't. 


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#8151 Problem With Power Sliding Door.

Posted by scrufgp on 13 July 2017 - 07:23 PM

hi had same problem with my doors 

watched this easy easy repair well worth a go your self 

copy paste watch 


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#7966 Delta Lancia Badging

Posted by Nello on 22 June 2017 - 09:17 AM

Good work on the Airbag Alcantara. Check my Lancia Martini stripes for the sills earlier in the thread (I think!) as an alternative. Great bonus with the windscreen!

I don't think FCA had a choice in putting in the Chrysler badging. UK Type approval means the 'makers' branding is displayed on the glass etc.

I've used http://www.ebay.co.u...VQAAOSwHjNV-etk

those to try to hide mine!

 

The earlier - what they call 'Waterfall' grill which I have is Part No.735478276

 

Delta1_zpsanbfbnlg.jpg


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#7791 Delta Lancia Badging

Posted by Alcantaradelta on 08 June 2017 - 05:51 PM

Took me ages trying to get these pictures up,I'm in bury...only seen one white near me once..not many around.had a few people ask me about it since it was rebadged...kind of like the exclusivity it brings for the money it cost..
Don't know weather to go the hole Hogg and get the airbag,
It's been a great help reading all you guys posts to ,,thanks..
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#7690 Battery Drain

Posted by QinteQ on 25 May 2017 - 09:26 PM

Battery
 
Battery choice, like choosing a wife, provokes different opinions on what is beautiful. The issue[s] however are simple. You should be looking for about 800CCA over 80aH, this is a physical size that will not fit the CRD battery tray, so get a big one and modify the tray, or get a smaller one and take your UK winter chances. There is a~n~other UK issue of lifestyle, its a use it or lose it condition. If like me you do 2000 miles per annum with two 15 minutes trips once a week you will regardless of battery size / cost never keep that battery charged, the BUS [over 7 or so days] at resting will use more than the 30 minutes the alternator was able to replace.
 
Different people have success with different batteries, I'm sure the UK users will come to your aid with their suggestions, particularly the Scottish contingent who have an even colder climate than I. For myself I originally had a Banner Uni Bull 690 over 70 and my replacement was a Bosch S5 Type 96 at 800 over 80. Best of luck.
 
Power seat fuse[s] : are as stated droppers, as you have had your battery removed for 4 days the 'droppers' should re-set themselves via the BCM/IPM
 
Lifestyle : Two 15 minutes trips once a week.
 
The  higher  the  voltage  applied,  the  faster the battery will charge, charging at too  high a voltage WILL  damage  your  battery. A simple 100Ah open lead acid  battery and a 180A charger connected to the battery discharged to 50% :
 
- @ 50% full @ 13.2V current was 35A
- @ 50% full @ 14,8V current was 160A [improvement of 457%]
- @ 75% full @ 13.2V current was 1A
- @ 75% full @ 14.8V current was 60A [improvement of 6000%]
 
Its not linear so :
 
- two 15 minute periods @ 13.2V is 2 x 15 minute @ 21Ah, compared to ;
- two 15 minute periods @ 14.4V is 2 x 15 minute @ 60Ah, is an improvement  of  about  300%
 
The temperature sensor under the battery will drop [ temperature compensator's on modern alternators will compensate] the voltage output from about 14.0V to about 13.2V. The problem I have with this is the engine compartment soon reaches temp and the battery assumes its fully charged.
 
- 13.20 volts is about what you would expect from [split diode - does not apply to Voyagers, and] this vehicle with a temp sensor & alternator compensator
- 14.00 volts  is about what you would expect from any typical alternator without a vehicle temp sensor & alternator compensator
- 14.40 volts is what you would expect from a sealed lead acid to prevent [they tend to gas @ 50ºC] excessive gassing
- 14.80 volts is what you can risk pushing it to with an open lead acid to prevent damage to other equipment connected to the battery at the same time
 
NOTE01 : There are IOD 7 functions that are 'live' when you think your car and battery are asleep, they pull a combined 0.025 ampere draw. I used a Maplins cheepo solar panel which cost me £15 at the time, and I have never been unable to start the car since. They are :
 
• Electrical items left on.
• Faulty or improperly adjusted switches.
• Faulty or shorted electronic modules and components.
• An internally shorted generator.
• Intermittent shorts in the wiring
Remote key fob
Radio
Heater blower
Folding mirrors
Central locks
Interior lights when the key is in the ignition
 
 
IGNITION-OFF DRAW TEST - reproduced from the workshop manual - According to Chrysler's own workshop manual :
 
Allow twenty minutes for the IOD to stabilize and observe the multi-meter reading. The low-amper- age IOD should not exceed twenty-five milliamperes (0.025 ampere). If the current draw exceeds twenty-five milliamperes, isolate each circuit using the fuse and circuit breaker remove-and-replace process in Step 4. The multi-meter reading will drop to within the acceptable limit when the source of the excessive current draw is disconnected. Repair this circuit as required; whether a wiring short, incorrect switch adjustment, or a component failure is at fault
The term Ignition-Off Draw (IOD) identifies a normal condition where power is being drained from the battery with the ignition switch in the Off position. A normal vehicle electrical system will draw from fifteen to twenty five milliamperes (0.015 to 0.025 ampere) with the ignition switch in the Off position, and all non-ignition controlled circuits in proper working order. Up to twenty-five milliamperes are needed to enable the memory functions for the Powertrain Control Module (PCM), digital clock, electronically tuned radio, and other modules which may vary with the vehicle equipment. A vehicle that has not been operated for approximately twenty one days, may discharge the battery to an inadequate level. When a vehicle will not be used for twenty one days or more (stored), remove the IOD fuse from the Integrated Power Module (IPM). This will reduce battery discharging.
 
BatteryMOD
 
I like many of us was an early adopter of AGM, most of us by now will be AGM. It occurs to me that the safe μF we chose for the buttonMOD could be changed to give closer to 14.4V than the 14.1 I was getting. I went 13.9 to 14.1 it would be nice to have that extra .3V, it would make a hell of a difference on a big 80aH even over such a short charging time frame as 15 minutes.
 
I was thinking 22K Ω @ 1/2 watt would be a goodish guesstimate for keeping it under the 14.6[ish] although I'm sure it would be safe a little higher. I'll be happy if I can get to the extra .3's @ 14.4 * Tested .... smack on 14.4-6 winter and 14+ summer over a 6 month period steady across the REV range. This will better recover the winter loss more quickly. Of course in the summer the ALT output will be limited by the lower battery replenishment needs Well pleased !

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#7686 Adapter For Stereo 2006 Crd Grand

Posted by andyb2000 on 25 May 2017 - 12:52 PM

Ah good thinking @bignev I'm gonna give the aux inputs a go, I was basing that on my last GV which did the above.

 

On the engine, all good and back on the road. It was a cracked flexplate in the end, so separated the autobox from the engine (bellhousing bolts, flexplate bolts removed from the starter motor hole when removed), got enough space to get the flexplate out and replaced. Cost from dealer was around £80 for the new flexplate.

I've been planning on doing a full write-up on steps and gotchas doing it when I get round to it! All up and running and happy again though, cheers for asking m8 :-)


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#7659 Sun Visor Retaining Clips ?

Posted by bignev on 21 May 2017 - 10:24 PM

The part number would seem to be YY23BD1AA.

 

Try a main dealer, they should be about £6 to £8 each.

 

Or if a few of you got together we could get them from moparwholsaleparts.com in the States, just had a quick work out and even with delivery they would be around £8 each based on 4.


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#7524 Location Of G100 Ground - Abs Problem

Posted by Argee on 28 April 2017 - 07:59 PM

Update time!! - I fixed it!

 

After studying the circuit diagrams, I pulled the connector off of the underside of the fuse/relay box and disconnected the connector to the  ABS controller. I found that one of the wires that takes a 12V supply to the ABS controller had a break in it.  It had a splice somewhere between the 2 - which I thought was probably where the problem was.  Of course it was somewhere in the wiring loom and I didn't have the time or inclination to get to it - so I ran a bypass wire along the route of the loom.

That fixed all the error codes apart from the Front Right ABS sensor.  I tested the continuity between it and the ABS connector and it was fine.  I then replaced the sensor with one I had got from a breakers yard.......and once I got above 15mph......the yellow ABS light went out!! :-D


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#7218 Grand Voyager 2.8Crd Which Gearbox Will Fit?

Posted by newtothis on 27 March 2017 - 09:48 AM

So just to confirm to everybody I have now repaired my vehicle using a gearbox from a 3.3 petrol voyager. I purchased a 52 plate with head gasket failure for £200.The car had done 68k with one owner and full service history. I drove the vehicle for 36 miles without fault and if im honest it was a shame to break the car as it drove perfectly. I figured for £200 I would have a go and see if it would work. Well the answer is yes all though there is 2 slight modifications you have to do.

 

1: On the 2.8 gearboxes you will find 2 bolt holes under the rear diff, the 3.3 only has one and its in the wrong place. Easy to sort just alloy weld and make second hole. (I suppose you could just ignore it because its only one bolt but I like things to be right)

2: the hoses at the front as Neil said are incorrect. Rather than using hose I simply unscrewed the fitting and replaced with the correct fitting from my 2.8 gearbox. Fits perfect.

 

I did use the torque converter from my 2.8 but looking the 3.3 would fit no worries. I have driven the car around 50 miles and all is perfect. :) So how much has it cost for this gearbox repair:

 

Scrap car £200

Gearbox oil and filter £36

total £236

 

But then guess what, as I have bought a full car I can now either break the full car which I haven't time to do or sell to scrap yard. I have chosen the later and they are collecting it and giving me £125. So this gearbox repair has cost me £111.

 

I did look at the internals prior to fitting and can also confirm they are the same. :) hope this helps somebody else in the future as on my quest to find a gearbox everybody told me it couldn't be done and that a gearbox is £500. Well they were wrong


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#7072 Auto Italia Meeting

Posted by richjharris on 13 March 2017 - 11:28 AM

We'd both be interested in attending in our Delta's. One is a Momo 'S' which has just been Lancia branded (on the outside only at the moment) and an SR with the black Momo grill.


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#7071 Delta Lancia Badging

Posted by richjharris on 13 March 2017 - 11:16 AM

Just wanted to thank Nello for his instructions on how to replace the front grill and yes, I know this post is getting quite old now.

 

We've got two Delta's - a Volcanic Black Momo 'S' model and my white SR, both 1.6TD. I found a grill on eBay Italy but the guy wouldn't ship it to the UK for some reason. (He also ignored the messages that I sent him), so I got it shipped to a friend in Germany who kindly shipped it to us.

 

Yesterday we took the front bumper off the S and replaced it with the Lancia grill, then moved the Momo grill to my SR. The grill wasn't cheap, it was 199 Euro. Also the back Lancia badge was another 22 Euro.

 

The right hand side, underneath the car is a total pain in the arse because its got plastic screws which hold a cover in place. The rest of it was fairly simple. The first bumper took about an hour and a half as we were learning on the job, where as we did my SR in about half that time. I'm not convinced yet by the black grill on my SR, but it does look good on the S. Here's some pics of before and after.

 

Delta Momo 'S' with Chrysler Grill
Delta Momo 'S' with Lancia Grill
Delta Momo 'S' with Lancia Badge
Delta SR with Stock Chrysler Grill
Delta SR with Chrysler Momo Grill

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